Gaz Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 Jus aswell I didnt follow service manual it said 5.8l for engine with std oil cooler and I put only 5l in with larger cooler. MMust have diff sump on it. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 Sounds tough. Bet neighbors love you! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 Yea sounds healthy, gamble paid off. Good Jerb Gaz. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RX3 PP Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 Good luck with the build, being an rx2 owner in the past these are lovely cars with great lines, the 2 coupe now is very rear to find, and IMHO one of the nicest old school cars around 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 Yuh they seem to be rare but peps still pay more for the sedan version it seems. Not in this one to sell so no worries for me. Tryn to get rolling for Feb. .. fingers crossed yo car return mud Oct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dabuzz Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 Powder coating looks nice, i have heard mixed opinions on PC vs paint, been weighing it up myself, either way having a super clean setup always looks the goods 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr1600 Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 Heard lots of opinions on the powdercoat vs paint debate but after having a half a powerstation come loose in bad weather trapped in the hole of the ship. Heres my 10c on my dealings Powdercoat is awesome untill it is damaged/chipped. Repairs are hard to achieve and most of the time need a full repaint to match anyway. Not really an issue on smaller items and will work well for what your doing 2 pot Paint is far easier to repair howwever doesnt handle the enviroment as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 Yeh I think in this case the prep will be the problem rather than th pc. Items had surface rust and pitting. They sandblasted and then zinc coated but not sure about rust treatment. You can still see rust patches under pc so I am expecting it to bleed out eventually or maybe lift/chip the pc. Looks mint for now and saved me prepping and painting bits/lazy. I think im still going to get the other suspension parts done once test fitted but maybe not the rear axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dabuzz Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 I guess it may come down to how much you will actually use the car. E.g - my last rotor only went 20,000k in the 11 years i owned it, so yea only reason PC would really shit itself would be the prep. stuff it im just gonna do mine by hand , etch prime and a good ol can of emanel black! - see how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 I think itll be used about that much ^^^ to be honest. Was building the Chevette up as the everyday cruiser but doubt thatll ever be finished now that funds are......dead/sunk/0 I think thats what ill do with the diff after the new brackets are put on, flapper, etch, paint. Was thinking maybe the perfect use for that hammerite finish paint? Or maybe some of that kinda rubber paint as it dont chip easy. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Wonder if silver zinc would be an option on some stuff? similar thickness to on bolts? would look ugly but you can't exactly see it. spendy as? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 They zinc coated under the powder coat on my stuff to make it last longer, costs little bit more but worth it. Guess its still only as good as the prep that goes in though. Wonder why they use nickel as the base when chroming stuffs..... cant be arsed googling Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Got any updates on the paint job? Pics? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_spitfire Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Nice build man! Got my wheels done by Bateman racecars aswell, th did a top job! Where did you get your toyos from? did you have to get them bought into the country? im after some 215/45r15 toyo T1R's i managed to get a set of 205/45r15 T1R's but need a 215 for cert. Cheers Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Hi matt. I've heard both good and bad things about Bateman so hopefully get a good dealing. I brought tyres from local toyo dealer. I rung toyo warehouse first to check availability. Their number in phone book and they were really helpfull. If they make the profile your after they will know. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Isnt there something like a maximum of 20% negative offset for wheels to be legit? /you probably dont give a shit anyway haha and will get legal on other wheels I suspect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Yeah there is, these ones are to be legal as with the diff shortened it wont fit other wheels (no spare for lyfe). The way I read it is that your offset can be as much as 20% of total width of rim. The wheel offset on a wheel fitted to a low volume vehicle, other than a vehicle specified in 2.2(9), measured from hub flange to wheel width centre-line, including any spacers or adaptors if fitted, must be [see diagram 2.2(]: (a) in the case of a front-engined, rear-drive vehicle, no more than 20% of the total wheel width positive or negative; and It also says this tho... and because I have heavier duty diff/axles/bearings/studs (hilux) Id be in the clear. in the case of an offset outside of the requirements specified in 2.2((a) or (, either: (i) the axle and hub components used are from a vehicle which is substantially heavier than the vehicle to which the suspension and axle componentry is now fitted; or So if my calcs are correct that means that I'm allowed a +-52 offset wheel. Ill be running -60 so slightly out but Ill fit into the second clause in the cert guide. That was my thinking, I think im right??? Gaz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Ah right, I hadnt actually figured out 20% of 270mm, didnt realise it was so close to 60 mm. I rekon youl be sweet mayte. Plus hilux's are fat so yeh, second clause will be helpfull Id assume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Maybe I should run this past whomever is going to do my cert... which I have no local knowledge off. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berjjj Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 HI,your car is cool,those wheels will be bloody ridiculous,I am in love. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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