Vintage Grumble Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Once again, badass. Tho, I do have to ask, how sturdy is that steering shaft? Also, any idea on power and weight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 i like this a lot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Can't wait for stage 3 or 4 when it gets the sweet wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 I ask the same question as VG - that shaft being that long looks easy to bend and would be a shit of a thing if it did. could you support it with a bearing? Perhaps triangulated back to the cage when that is built? Also needs a #13 pool ball for a shift knob. LOL Does look mega super tourer and like it means business though. Can't wait for the photo of the ITB's inside a baffled carbon fibre housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 I'm waiting for a flipped head/engine/upside down gearbox also Brad. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 seating position looks so bad ass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 Pedal box was super shit Markku. The brake pedal bent a little bit (side to side, from heal toe) so I have to reinforce it a bit. I shouldn't have skimped on the lower end, should have gone mid-way but I still think OBP has the potential to be ok. I'd just weld a rod or something on the pedal to fix that. Also balance thing needs to be sorted out as that wasn't twisting very freely. Steering is sweet, that shaft will never bend it's like 25mm solid steel, even in a vice you'd not get any bend hanging off it. But the steering column is adjustable, so there is some movement in there. When I do a cage I will reinforce it a bit to reduce play, but the adjustability is good for getting out of the car because the steering wheel is in the way of the door a little bit. No idea on power to weight VG. Factory power is 150bhp at the flywheel, so hopefully a little bit more than that and probably somewhere around 1000kg without driver at the moment. I've only done 2 plastic windows so far and the sunroof is still in, so once I finish that side of things and take a bit more weight out I'll chuck it on a set of scales and see what it weighs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 What kind of bushes have you got in the steering shaft? If they are factory plastic ones and disintegrate under the force of steering then the amount of movement at the end of the shaft would be about a metre +/- 990mm Sorry not nitpicking - just imagining that would be a bit of a PITA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Yea I think we talked about those bottom level pedal boxes Brad? seems everyone has the same problem with them being flimsy and goes for the next one up. I'm sure its fine KK, lots of steering columns have a proper ball bearing at the steering wheel end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 most importantly, how was the battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 Yeah I knew the pedal box was going to be average, so it's not too bad. It was about half the cost of even mid range with everything included and I just can't justify pouring money into those areas. I just wanted the cheapest way to lose the brake booster, ABS etc. I think it was about $700 landed included bias adjust, reservoirs, masters etc Steering is fine kk, don't stress. I've pedalled it around Hampton Downs for 10 laps and the small amount of play in the steering was the least of my worries. OH YEAH THE BATTERY! I forgot to mention that, I'll try and get some photo's of it up. I started it for most of the day on the jumper to project the battery, but when loading it on the trailer and into the garage I did a couple of starts off the battery and it started well. I think it's ok, but for absolute peace of mind it would be good to go up to the next size. I'm happy with it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakesae101 Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 what size is the battery looking at putting a 40ah gell cell one in my project car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 His is a baby lithium battery (Li Fe) made by Shorai(?). So small! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Don't laugh, but I'm using one of these Shorai bike batteries 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Have a read up about them, they are pretty good. http://www.shorai.co.nz/ Mine was about $250 or so, but you can get larger and more expensive ones than that. My old battery was around 14kg and this battery is 762g. I have just bolted it to the firewall rather than relocating it further back as it is so light. To preserve it I'm using a jumper pack also, but this probably isn't required. A couple of race car builders said it's good to only use the battery in the car for running it rather than it getting hit hard by the engine start and having to be charged for the first couple of laps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 awwwww, its so cute Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Light Weight SuperStock/Stockcar Batteries $195.00 each As run in many superstocks/stockcars/ministocks,nice light weight hi output batteries,Size181 mm long, 77 mm wide, 167 mm high. Can be freighted anywhere for about $10-$15 Phone Kyle Fraser 0275 300 800. email kyle@frasercars.co.nz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 210cca amps is really light,so id only used to post fire up... this thing is coming along really well.. id also tie the steering shaft in to a cage with a rod end.. my stockcar has an extended shaft like that, and they do bend, trust me on that.. and not just from impacts, just the constant turning, your actually pushing the steering wheel side to side when you turn so it puts huge load on it. keen to see more progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 210cca amps is really light,so id only used to post fire up It's measured in a different way to lead acid batteries. Do some reading on Li-Fe, they are pretty good. I would wager they'd last longer than one of those SLA batteries and are 1/4 the weight. Plus there is no acid in them, so they're safe to install in the car where as SLA technically are not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 I need to have a hoon on your battery eh... I also have a few dud makita li ion drill batteries that I could rob cells out of for a test. Might start a tech thread about batteries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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