mjrstar Posted April 27, 2014 Author Share Posted April 27, 2014 So- A bit of a milestone on the mazzda on the weekend.. We have finally powered up the ECU and checked a bunch of stuff, coils and injectors fired up in test mode which was pretty cool. But before that a quick trip to Pick a Part to obtain an air inlet temp sensor from an Audi for the huge sum of $6 as well as a couple of plugs for the coolant temp sensors. First job was for me to whip up a quick mounting block for the tig master to weld to the manifold. and then the front half of the loom was pretty well sorted except for a couple of earth terminals and the oil pressure gauge wiring, also did some other stuff like removing un-necessary bits from the throttle body and beefing up the power and earth feeds for the intank pump, and removing yet MORE excess wiring from the car... Probably the most exciing bit was keying on the ECU, setting the tacho output to sweep full scale with ignition on and it actually working. Still a while away from starting the engine, and have a whole lot of other stuff to do but it's getting to the point where a list might actully be needed - must try to take some 1/2 decent photos at some stage as the phone pictures are pretty average. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 I did some further research on reverse current flow through relays which was causing the fuel pump to do crazy shit. (stayed on with key switched off) turns out you need ignition switched positive feed for the relays to prevent this from happening. Anyway that's all good now and i also figured out how to trigger the onboard datalogging function which lokos at least semi useful. I think i also missed final photos of the resistor pack mounting and positioning of air inlet temp sensor.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 Oil hoses all sorted now (except for turbo oil drain) will hopefully sort the fuel feed line, flush the system and install the new filter this weekend.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 What are the little tie things you've used at the end of the braid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Crimped clamps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 The end clamps just clip into a recessed groove, so not actually crimped but yeah should do the same job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 Little bit of progress - Made this from a brake hose end fitting which i trimmed up in the lathe (removed the threaded end and dominated the hex) then had it welded to a pipe end with a BSPT thread and jammed in the bleed nipple... Any ideas what it's for? Also did some wiring for the wideband (plug below the isolator switch is the input from the wideband into the ECU rather than hardwired) this produced a few problems with the config of the LC1 until i realsed i needed to reset the calibration back to pump gas (had a custom config on one of the outputs which saw 7.7 afr on the gauge and 22afr on the ecu input. So once i got that figured out i bunged the O2 sensor up the exhaust of the evo and logged the AFR using the mazda ecu and it seemed to behave. dropped in the center console and found that th dash sits a bit high due to the trans tunned mods so sorted that with some hacksaw vs plastic action. Err.. also sorted the boost controller wiring so here is a pic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 12, 2014 Author Share Posted June 12, 2014 So my tig master friend has sunk a truckload of time into making a jig, designing and building the shifter mechanisim for the 350 Z box. The original shifter system would have seen the gearlever around 200mm further rearward so was not going to be an option. on installation it was a near perfect fit with minor trimming of the centre console plastic, we decided to tweak it rearwards slightly to work better if we fit a quick release hub for the steering wheel and to ensure 1st gear is not too much of a reach when belted in. He also put his tig skills to use and pieced together the stainess turbo oil drain from some discarded bends i found at work, and we had a go at finishing up the gearbox mounts where the folded sections are attached to the floor pan. I had also sorted the throttle linkage bracketry and set the pedal strok to match throttle body span. we attempted to bleed the clutch but that was no joy due to clutch slave with 336,000k's on it giving up the ghost so I will order one in. Next on the list will be basking in the glory of the HPC'd items when they come back from the coaters, making some manifold tapping points for the varous items requiring a Map reference, and then on to modding the rocker cover for oil breather and making a catch can. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Got this stripped ready for filler neck and breather mods. Also picked up a new clutch master and had a go at the oil catch can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 Another good work session happened yesterday with the rocker cover mods which involved some plugs I made and a modified filler neck, coupled with some breather adaptors the tig champion had machined out of some Hex bar to complete the work on the rocker cover and retain good bonnet clearance. Those of you with a really keen eye will notice the engine and box are no-longer in the car - or attached to each other the tig master from Auckland also picked up the hot bits from HPC which really do look the part. from there we had to do a quick mission to town to pick up some clutch fluid (with an obligatory visit to PAP)- bleeding did not go so well (the opened up slave cylinder wasn't sealing due to the rear cover not having any support). From there we pulled the engine and box out and the tig master welded up th bits for the breather catch can, running out of argon put a hault to the catch can build, but there is not too much more to do. Plans while the motor and box are out include a good clean of the gearbox, figuring out the plug for the reverse switch, a good tidy up of the engine bay, a bit of brake / clutch plumbing etc.. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 photos of the other progess I forgot to take the other day.. note low profile oil filler neck 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicT Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 Only word that i could describe your build to someone else is "clean", so very clean. Inspirational even, keep it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 Cheers man.. It's a time consuming process to not only make stuff functional but also look like it's supposed to be there. The plan all along is for it to be tidy but not showy / flash so you won't see blue silicone hose, piles of polished parts or miles of stainless steel braid. This thing has sucked up some time, but is pretty well done now. Finish is not perfect but is close enough for me. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Totally agree with NicT, everything you do is mint. Blue silicon ruined my last engine bay, so yuck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Bit more progress on clutch slave 1.5 - the master machinist invested a bunch of time modifying the base / inner sleeve and piston of the slave to suit the mounting provision. He gave me a couple of measurements so I was able to crudely carve out a new mount bracket using the rotary table on the mill. (Lathe at work has been in high demand this time of year) The second part of the plan was to ditch the flexi lines inside the bellhousing - and make up some bulkhead fittings one of which included a section of bolt shank drilled to suit the angled design for better access. Yeah I know the feed hardline is a bit long, but lack of a flaring tool meant we had to guesstimate the lengths prior to bending and work from there.Next we jammed the motor and box back together, and the power plant back into the car. Chuck the hoses on and Bam - clutch magic happened. Pedal feels great with the engagement window right about where it should be which is awesome given the mixture of parts involved Oh yeah also i had sorted the reverse wiring last week so we were able to test that system out once the box was back in. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 this, i like very much. good job man, good job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Thanks man, I guess there is a word of warning with hydraulic release bearings on a pressure plate with a large diameter finger hole. It's dammed near impossible to get a match for bearing contact if the pressure plate is not designed to run the concentric slave. (Raised finger contact vs raised bearing contact). Hence the piston mods to take the OEM skyline release bearing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 large diameter finger hole. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 Aah I see what you did there.. In other news the target is to have this thing fired up in the next month - so just working through a list of must do's before turning the key - It will be an axle stand only run at this stage but will still need to sort the rear brakes to allow for some load on the engine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Lol. Diy dyno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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