KKtrips Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Yeah I'm in no hurry - make it the Wednesday after next. Chur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Its a date. Appreciate it. I dont get dates very often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 But when you do - it's like the first time/rape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 Exiting? GET THE FUCK OUT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 Crazy old man, what are you on about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 Sly edit, dawg. You know me though, any excuse for a play on words. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Good work Beave, is that 12/14mm the thread or the actual shaft diameter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 I'm assuming you mean thread. Had to do this for Z as konis were 14mm and factory were 12mm. No dramas, If you are going to use S13/14/15 camber plates or whatever, they probably come with 14mm shock holder thingymabobs. Again, No dramas, Get this low. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 yeh thats what i meant. we connect on so many levels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Also, when it comes to sectioning. Duct tape is your friend. Makes it relatively easy to get a semi-straitish chop. Exciting bro. I'm so happy for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 A pipe cutter also works mean to mark a straight line for you to slice with a grinder. Also a piece of paper wrapped around the shaft gives you a mean line to mark - the wider the bit of paper the straighter the line Last time I rung up george stocks in auckland they had the correct shocks on the shelf etc. (koni rather than kyb) and they were around $110 each trade haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Including inflation for 5 years they might cost a bit more now eh Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 That was about 2 months ago. I went to buy some for Laurens ke26 after we cut the struts too much. ps. fuck you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 LOWL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 I have a pipe cutter Beave. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Last time I rung up george stocks in auckland they had the correct shocks on the shelf etc. (koni rather than kyb) and they were around $110 each trade haha. Oh yeh. I think il stick with the vw ones, they are only $180 for the pair (monroe so no doubt not nop notch but I don't care). What part number have you got? Ive only got a monroe one for the N10 steez, haven't been able to find an alternative for other brands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 I looked for the part number but couldnt find it. I just rung them up and asked for whatever the chassis code pulsar they came from front shocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 ah right. meh, ill stick with these. next job, sweet talk manu to do some weldy weldy for me. wink wink nudge nudge. While your all here, I was yarning to Joe aboutt his the other night, but whats the best way to figure where to stick the threaded sleeve? Just cur strut down to size and stick sleeve wherever the springs are captive? Or should I be running some numbers to figure shit out? (I know spring rates) In my head it almost just makes sense to assemble everything and then position the sleeve so the springs are just captive with the nuts say 1/2 way up the sleeve to allow for adjustment up and down. I have keepers if needed as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 assemble everything and then position the sleeve so the springs are just captive with the nuts say 1/2 way up the sleeve to allow for adjustment up and down. This. Means you can go max low if desired. Mind you, if springs at middle thread and car still jacked, then you may need to go lower with the threads. If you know what i mean. hot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Yeh I see. Im tempted to get a pair of shaft/clamp collars and whack them on so I can see where everything sits and play around without having to weld/cut/weld etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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