EvoBilly Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 as title says im after rust fixing guildes ive heard heaps of different things and not sure what to do/ what works best having old cars the biggest issue i find is rust and trying to fix and stop the stuff im limited on tools and would like to fix what ever i can my self with out needing to pay someone as ive got no money. heard things like sand off loose rust then rust kill, prime, skim bog, prime, paint, oh and theres sanding in there but then i get told that you gotta clean the rust kill stuff off coz paint wont stick etc i just want to learn some good tricks to get the small stuff and stop it growing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 Just fixed my own rusts. if you search my thread, people have gave heaps advice. so I don't want to give you any advice as I know f all.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvoBilly Posted November 10, 2011 Author Share Posted November 10, 2011 would be good if some A+ gudes could be made and put in the tech section as all owners of old cars will have to deal with rust at some point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 Heaps and heaps of videos on youtube. Best way is to cut out the rust and put new metal in. Not always possible though if you don't have the gear to do so. You can get a paint system called POR15 which is a rust killing type setup. http://www.por15.co.nz This kit is a good start: http://www.por15.co.nz/POR15Prod/superstarterkit.htm Comes with instructions needed on how each step of the job works. Comes with cleaning solution, a rust converter type product and the paint. It is potent shit though and I would recommend grabbing a half face mask + chemical fumes filters from somewhere like NZ Safety. You really don't want to be breathing it in. Grab a bot of nitrile gloves too as if you get it on your hands it takes a while to come off. Safety first, it's not worth taking the risk. Speaking from experience here. Not with bad affects of POR15, just in general of breathing in bad shit. So yeah, if you're after a paint on solution, i'd try the above product. I use it when chopping out isn't an option and it does a mint job. Will be doing my entire Escort floor with it, top and bottom. If you're wanting to get more serious with repairs, youtube. Just don't take everything you see as correct though. There are some pretty bad repair videos out there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
governorsam Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=usetharch&action=display&thread=70135 http://www.vwrides.com/viewtopic.php?t=43&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=085f86cd93562e0317b1eefe64786a14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slacker.cam Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 Are you after guides about cutting out rust and welding new metal in? Or more along the lines of rust prevention and bog jobs? There's an excellent thread that's on retrorides where a guy goes through the process of forming metal repair panels. He goes through what tools to use and everything. I'll dig it up for you if you're interested. Edit: should have read the rest of this thread. beaten to it. the original thread is definitely worth reading through if you have some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Lotta different methods depends on how long you want it to last, how much you're prepared to spend and what tools you have available Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 just been cleaning out the bog from previous repairs on my van stumbled across some CEMENT used in place of bog, have a feeling this used to be a builders van if you just have small bubbles coming though and you want a quick fix thatl last between 6 months and a few years wire wheel the shit out of the rust (front and back if you can) liberally apply a few coats of 'brunox' (this is my personal favorite its a rust kill/steel stabilizer/epoxy primer all in one can) apply your bog if needed and sand to required shape prime, if using 1k/spray-can primer apply top coat the same day as its pourus/has sex with water and makes rust paint polish profit drink ice cold bevy and chill anything bigger then your gona need to be chopping and welding/newtec if you're a cunt/me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 ^ + fish oil the shit out of all cavities and seams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 yeah what he said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvoBilly Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 some good tips here cheers guys got alot of reading to do i want to do repairs that will last do it once do it right sort of thing. so if i find rust in my car is there somthing i can do to slow it or stop it spreeding till i get to fix it? i think bubblegoose answered it but is it always best to cut all rust how do you tell if its good to just rust kill and use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 if you can grind away all the rust without going though the steel then your good to go if its got holes then choppy choppy time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slacker.cam Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 If its rust appearing from near seams, even if you can get rid of the rust without going through the metal, you are likey still going to have rust festering in the seam itself. In this case you're going to need to split the seam and chop the rotten bits out. Often you will find the rust is coming through from the back so even if it looks like a small bubble from the outside be prepared to have it explode into a large hole once you hit it with a grinder. One thing to note is don't stop grinding/cutting until you have removed all traces of rust. Even then its a good idea to use some rust kill around the surrounding area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Also, even if you can grind the rust off without going through the metal give it a good stab with a screw driver first and make sure theres enough metal behind it to be any use anyway. No point in leaving it paper thin. Best ways to remove rust are wire brushes, sandpaper and flap discs on a grinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 No point in leaving it paper thin. helps retain your sanity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatt20 Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Also, even if you can grind the rust off without going through the metal give it a good stab with a screw driver first and make sure theres enough metal behind it to be any use anyway. No point in leaving it paper thin.Best ways to remove rust are wire brushes, sandpaper and flap discs on a grinder i agree with most of this, def give ita stab with something sharp, however, stab lightly if you want to sell it, hard if its a project, buy a cheap sansblaster it will remove the rust in the pitted bits that most rotary devices wont . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvoBilly Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 cheers guys been buying some bits to try fix some of the small bits myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael0008 Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 dum question but with the rust kill stuff ive been using it on little rust surface spots that ain't flaky or anything ,will that stop it for good or should i just wip the grinder out for every little bit or do they just prevent it from getting worst/covers it up but still can spread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Would depend on what product you're using. POR15 for example you can paint over rust (also using the other products that go before it, marine clean / metal ready) so should be fine. Rust never dies though, unless you cut it out it's not going to be ideal. So if you're going with the paint over it method, use good shit for the best possible result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Patch panels are a really good start if available for what ever your build may be. They are more often than not not perfect but its alot easier than forming a panel from stratch. These pics show the lower door post repair using purchased repair parts. They are usually bigger than required which leaves material to be cut away. My aim is to cut and remove every once of rust. My coupe has a black peppering over some of the bare metal which is quite common on 30+ year old steel. To remove this and save the steel I use stainless wire wool and jenolite. Its really labour intensive but it works really well. Have a look at the attached link. Metalmeet is a good site for any sheetmetal/welding advice. http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthre ... +willys%22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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