zep Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 I want to get some control of the boost my car is making. The LEM G3 has the ability to run an auxilary boost controller, but I'm not sure how well this fares compared to an off the shelf Greddy type unit. Has anyone had experience with this? The LINK way would be much cheaper, but which is better? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-W-G Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Megasquirt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 He's got a G3 installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Are you running G4 software on the G3? I'm pretty sure the newer G4 software can do closed loop boost control where I don't think the G3 can. A lot of the cheaper electronic boost controllers around use the same solenoid as what is usually used with the Link. I had a HKS EVC in my car but took it out to use the Link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 boost control on g3 works good, is open loop as above. but that isnt really an issue. ah and you can rig it up to a dial or switch, thru link to run different boost levels if you want to do that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted October 28, 2011 Author Share Posted October 28, 2011 Yeah, that's my plan, to get a high and low setting. So if I'm to do this with the LEM, should I upgrade to the G4 framework? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 i would up grade it, i did on my escort. and now using the g4 boost control. also link are still upgrading the g4 software so means you will be able to take advantage of new things. the g4 upgrade does cost though. but the g3 boost control is sweet as if set up correctly. has it been tuned properly yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 if not going to use any of the new features of the g4 software. i wouldn't bother with the upgrade. especially if car is setup and tuned nicely already. was over 200 when i did the upgrade on mine, and messed up a few things when i done it. g4 is nice but not much point if you don't need it open loop seems to be much the same between g3 and g4. tbh i haven't bothered with closed loop on a g4 yet, as the open loop works fine and easy to setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 The car has been tuned, but not for the new turbo and I'm anticipating a new head/cam setup in the near future, so I'm waiting for that. Might just stick with the G3 at the moment. What do I need to buy to take advantage of that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 kpr, do you make a target boost duty cycle row then add a row above and below the target duty cycle to make the "bounce between" through the revs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 not quite sure what you mean? g3 i did the other day i ran a pretty much flat table. tps vs rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 if you go map vs rpm (means you cant have low boost at part throttle though but still can ramp the boost through the revs) and then say run 200kpa target boost. make a row at 190 and 210 kpa with the duty cycles in 210 kpa less and in 190 kpa more it becomes real stable. poor mans closed loop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 interesting, will try it if tps mode fails me. for zep: i did this choice ms paint for some dude awhile back. if you want to run different boost settings. rather than run run a pot, use a rotary switch. then you can use each click to select a different boost target rather than guessing with a pot from top left clock wise 5v out from ecu ground analog volt input to ecu the blue things are 200ohm resistors, should give you 6 switch points and we are looking at the back of this or if you want real simple, just put a switch on the boost solenoid to turn it off and revert back to wastegate pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 I think the second way is how I wanna do it. High and low setting (wastegate and solenoid). Do you have the link tuned for each setting or do you just hope it knows to add more fuel and change timing a tad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 will need to be tuned. so yeh i'd install it, but leave it switched off. then get it setup and retuned when you do your new head/cam setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 I'm still kind confused as to what bits I need to pick up? I will run a two way switch (basically wastegate, and more boost). Is there a particular solenoid I need? Do I wire the switch up to the link and also the solenoid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 need one of these. should be able to pick one up a bit cheaper if you look around http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 842435.htm simplest way to do it, would be to wire out from a spare aux output on the link to the solenoid, connecting to either wire. then run 12v+ (key on) to a switch. then to the other wire on the solenoid. the switch will just break the circuit and disable the solenoid. = waste gate pressure low boost. you could wire the switch to the link and control it that way. but more just more messing around. best to keep the solenoid close'ish to the wastegate. just away from the heat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 Same solenoid as Gizzmo IBCs use, there's are $90 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 848751.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted November 1, 2011 Author Share Posted November 1, 2011 Awesome, cheers guys. I've got a feeling that the people who installed my ECU already put the AUX lines in, as there are a few unused plugs lying around (under the dash and in the engine bay). Can I easily test these to see if they are the right bits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 the link wires are all colour coded. but you will want to double check you have the right cable with multi meter or something. just in case they are joined along the way.. if you have some spare wires in the engine bay, should be able to find the same cable at the ecu plug. see what pin its connected to, refer to the link manual. from memory any aux will do the boost solenoid, so any spare should do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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