Jump to content

Diagnosing blue smoke


keltik

Recommended Posts

Fill sump with banana skins instead of oil- worked in ww2. Well ok..in jeep gearboxes.

But would make it smell nice and be a great story to tell AA man 1/2 hour later after car breaks down eh.

Or use ep90....

The method of holding valves out with compressed air- I have heard of it but never seen it done. Do you use a fitting that screws in place of the plug?

If you went down that route then you would only need to remove cams and keep shims organised correctly- then surely you wouldn't need to re-do clearances if it was all ok beforehand. Plus you only need to do the inlet valves (no seals on exhaust eh?)

You could lift engine up ever so slightly higher to have more room to work on heads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The method of holding valves out with compressed air- I have heard of it but never seen it done. Do you use a fitting that screws in place of the plug?

Yea you just use the fittings that come with leak down test kits/compression testers, it works well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The method of holding valves out with compressed air- I have heard of it but never seen it done. Do you use a fitting that screws in place of the plug?

Yes, and you can make an adapter by hollowing out a spark plug and welding an air fitting to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When did you last change the oil? Old thrashed oil will burn readily and can cause worn valve stem seal symptoms.

However it is most likely (as most people have said) caused by worn valve stem seals and/or worn oil control rings.

Swap in better engine and then use current engine for a basis to build up a ripsnorter of a motor - then nix the shithouse Subaru gearbox and throw a W58 behind it..

WIN11!!11!!eleven!1!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oil is about 5,000km old. Have always changed it at 10,000. Gets a factory filter each time so its been looked after. Number 2 with the oily plug read 150psi, number 3 on the opposite bank read 180psi. I know that doesnt really tell much but couldnt be fucked doing all 6. Had a curry to cook.

Oh well, at least now i have another oldschool vehicle to drive while i fix it up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

150 seems a bit low. Heck even 180 is perhaps a tad on the low side for a 10:1+ compression motor. I gather throttle was held right open and starter held on for a good 4-5 seconds until compression gauge needle stops moving any higher?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that's true but it's rare to see just an oil control ring fail and not the compression rings at the same time. Usually a piston ring land cracks, a ring breaks or the piston edge melts/deforms. I would say the oil burning probably is coming from #2 and it's most likely a ring/piston issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...