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OldNathans RX30 Cressida 1UZ discussion


OldNathan

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First if he isnt happy with the pinion angle you need to sort out some adjustable arms to correct the diff angle, its a pretty good call from him. Also if the driveshaft is hitting the floor you need to fix that obviously. As for travel it depends on how you have it setup/ what your setup is? in the back it could be as simple as lower profile bump stops? the front may take some more work, depends on those BC's. Should be able to cert it at 85mm if you do it right

Yeah this is all stuff I'll do later. I want to enjoy it over summer and I have a few other things I might do to her so a re cert later once its all done isnt a problem. I'll just sell my other nut to pay for it. Car has been raised now about 20mm and a one piece driveshaft is being made today. Re cert check tomorrow morning.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thought I would wack this in here as Andys discussion isnt about insurance. Im quite happy. Auto club was $1200 per year. Swann just emailed me:

I can confirm we can cover your vehicle for Full Cover Agreed Value of $15,000.00 with effect from today.

Full Cover Annual Premium $293.00

Standard Excess $250

Theft Excess $500

I sent them pictures and details on the car so that is the agreed amount. It would cost that to build it again but my time is free.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Oh hey dude was about to PM you haha. Unfortunately I wont be bringing her up. Not keen on 11 hours of driving in 4th gear and no reg or wof. Can you PM me your details like address and number. I'll try and get there first thing Saturday or Sunday. I'll be at the D1 most of Saturday and Saturday night.

Will keep in touch.

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isnt that last pic showing how the tube is welded to the existing cast piece a big no-no cert wise?

Was waiting for that to be the first comment on that picture haha. The guy who did it is the main guy who does a lot of cert stuff up here and does most of the stock car stuff nationwide. Very respected and he has assured me its fine. It actually is honed about 40mm into the cast and then welded around the cast, which he said is cast+something??? so its ok. I'll take his word he very much knows his stuff.

And yeah going to have to raise it dud. its actually 25mm off the ground haha. Will raise it another 20mm I think. Match the back then. Will sort the diff angle crap out this week as well.

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Time for some 17inch Diesels bra. My brother said he seen and spoke briefly with you over new years. He drives fuel tankers and loves that sound of the 1uz.

17's are a must. 17x7? Im in.

Yeah saw him in Masterton. Gave it a bit of a squirt down the road for him. Nice guy.

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Hey guys any help on the issue I have when the car is to low? I have the old, if I get a flat tire the first thing to hit is the subframe. The tire profile is 45mm but the car is/was 25mm off the ground. I have raised it another 15mm(sorry) and hopefully if I pop a tire I dont do a front flip into the ground. At least I wont need to jack the car up to get the wheel off. Is there anyway around this?? Or deal with it.

Also may sound silly but what are thoughts on raising it 20mm all round and then cutting the guards and dropping them over the tire around the lip front and rear. Sounds major but I have seen this done before where they only cut the outer skin in a perfect line, pull it down and out and then fill in the gap.That way everything is off the ground but still looks low. Im not a fan of flares on this car so I dont want to do that. What are peoples thoughts on this idea?

Sort of what this guy has done to his front guards but down instead of out... http://streetoptions.co.uk/VIPtoyotaAristo.aspx

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Hey guys any help on the issue I have when the car is to low? I have the old, if I get a flat tire the first thing to hit is the subframe. The tire profile is 45mm but the car is/was 25mm off the ground. I have raised it another 15mm(sorry) and hopefully if I pop a tire I dont do a front flip into the ground. At least I wont need to jack the car up to get the wheel off. Is there anyway around this?? Or deal with it.
Other than fitted bigger rims then there is no real fix other than to raise the car.

If you leave as is then your car won't flip but it may come to a stop in a hell of a hurry if the tyre blows out and you may lose control.

In my mind you have to weigh up safety and practicality vs looks. I like actually LOVE low cars but the line has to be drawn somewhere - once you figure out the line then figure out where to go.

OK to leave it dangerous then rock as is (I doubt it will pass cert though as there is some test with bottom of the rim to the bottom of the tyre vs the lowest stucture of the car. (exhaust is no part of it I beleive)

Want it safe - then raise it or chuck on bigger diameter rims that will hit the ground before the car structure will.

Personally I would leave the car as is except raise the car to a sensible level (say 60mm off the ground) for driving and cruising but when you park it up at shows you should drop it to 25mm..

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