nothingsfree's Rx7...

[nothingsfree]

I dont see the point in running a light flywheel. Ive got a factory 12at one or the back of my 13b, it still revs hard as (the only advantage to a 10 pound) but retains torque and isnt gonna chuck the pressure plate out the bonnet at 9 grand

Each to their own, but my main reason for a light flywheel was for the same reason as my turbo choice, response. The biggest advantage of a light flywheel is how quickly it revs, hence a faster response to throttle inputs. A heavier flywheel will still be able to rev to 9 grand or whatever, but its not going to get there as fast...

Talking of flywheels letting go, thats why I bought a decent aftermarket one and didnt try to machine down a standard one.

Have you got a thread for yours? Im always keen to see a sweet rotary build.

[Bombsquad]

Each to their own, but my main reason for a light flywheel was for the same reason as my turbo choice, response. The biggest advantage of a light flywheel is how quickly it revs, hence a faster response to throttle inputs. A heavier flywheel will still be able to rev to 9 grand or whatever, but its not going to get there as fast...

highly argueable and not totally true in real life. While in theory you are correct (less rotational mass etc) in reality youll find 3/8th of fuckall difference, and im willing to bet my B will keep up with yours response wise.

Also no thread on any of my rotors on here, few on rotorhavik but i usually loose intrest in updating them very fast.

[nothingsfree]

Meh, not interested in a big debate over it, tho there must be some reason so many different race cars of all types choose to use a light flywheel...

[Bombsquad]

more stable at higher rpm, eg the kind revs you arnt pulling with a street motor.

[nothingsfree]

Ummm did you notice the cage in the first pics?

This isnt a street car.

[lowlancer]

You guys shouldn't bicker. You are part of team rotary OS

[nothingsfree]

Picked up a spare subframe and dif to play with, as there is a few mods I want to make including solid bushes, and adjustable arms etc..

Nice surprise, it already had DTSS eliminators installed, saves me having to make some.

Basically an exploded view of a FC subframe to give ya an idea of how it all sits under the car.

The stock rubber bushes in the subframe had to come out, but were rusted in and they werent letting go easily, so took abit of convincing.

[KKtrips]

A quick search on the internet found this from a specialist flywheel machinist

We have been performing this service for more than 15 years without a single failure. It is an inexpensive and easy wake to wake up your Normally aspirated or Turbocharged engine.

The are no negative effects to lightening your stock flywheel unlike replacing it with an ultra-lightweight Aluminum flywheel. Most manufacturers make the stock flywheel very heavy. This makes the engine very smooth and enables it to retain energy at part throttle cruise and up long grades for better fuel economy.

An Aluminum flywheel goes completely the other direction with almost no weight. This lets the engine rev up very quickly and allows the engine to work easier due to the reduced weight spinning around on the back of the crank. This is fine as long as you are at full throttle and wide open throttle all the time like in a Road Race or Drag Race only car. As soon as you let off the gas the engine RPM drops instantly and the car slows down. In a road car this causes surging and bucking at cruise speeds and poor driveability and clutch engagement.

A lightened stock unit on the other hand gives you the best of both worlds. It is a compromise between the overly heavy OEM unit and a Too light Racing unit. You get the benefits of both with none of the bad qualities.

Turbo cars are exceptionally critical to flywheel weight. Too light a flywheel will make the car rev faster and possibly come on boost faster but that is only half the issue. When you let off the gas to shift the car will drop off of boost just as quickly causing a poor transition when you come back on the throttle.

We have found that a lightened stock unit will generally be 8-12 lbs. lighter than the original yet still give the driveability needed for street use. The Mitsubishi Starion is an extreme example of an overweight stock flywheel. They are 33-35 lbs stock. We lighten them down to 20-21 lbs with nothing but positive effects and no loss of strength or reliability.

All the weight is taken off the back side of the flywheel so the surface is still the same height and your clutch still fits and works the same. We try to remove the weight as much from the center of mass as possible and leave a ring of weight around the outside for better inertia. We keep the center hub thick for extra strength.

[nothingsfree]

Had an aluminium sleeve made up to press into the trailing arm. As you can see in the 1st pic, there is a shoulder in the middle which a spherical bearing will slide into and sit against. The bearing will be held in place with a cir clip, as in 2nd pic. 3rd pic is the sleeve pressed into the trailing arm.

[nothingsfree]

Aww thanks KKK..

[KKtrips]

*blush*

[nothingsfree]

I had the spare subframe sand blasted to get rid of everything stuck to it.

Then used the POR15 metal ready.

Then brushed on the POR15 and left it to dry. One coat had it back to a mostly smooth finish, which considering how rough the surface was (industrial sand blaster) is pretty impressive.

[nothingsfree]

Few other bits that came with the car...

Has adjustable platforms front and rear, although these will be coming out shortly, as I have something else on its way

So if anybody is interested, pm me, otherwise they goin on trademe.

The calipers have been rebuilt, and look like new. Also have new front rotors, Il pick up some new rears and get them all slotted before going back in.

Another nice suprise, new EBC Green pads.

The lower arms have also been modified and are now adjustable.

I needed to buy some other 16inch wheels for the slicks, as the car only came with 3. There arent alot of 16x8 wheels with a low offset, but I managed to pick these up cheap. They have plenty of room for the brakes etc, and the weight isnt bad. They fit pretty good on the back, the guards just need a slight pull, and the tires will just tuck in. The fronts are poking out about 25mm, partly due to the adjustable arms pushing the bottom out, and partly a lack of neg camber. Il have to wait till my new suspension turns up so I can play around with the front fitment abit more, and go from there...

[SHGWAG]

I needed to buy some other 16inch wheels for the slicks, as the car only came with 3. There arent alot of 16x8 wheels with a low offset, but I managed to pick these up cheap.

Would standard S6 wheels have worked? They are 16x8, may not have been the right offset for you tho?

[nothingsfree]

Nah that was my first thought, but they are a horrible offset, like +35 or something nasty.

The ones Iv picked up, are about +5...

[nothingsfree]

Well Iv finally finished the most tedious job known to man. All the sound deadening has been removed. In Kermit, with the help of dry ice, I had the whole floor pan clear in under 3 hours. The 7 took 6 hours even with dry ice. Its seems to be thinner and softer so you cant chip off big chunks like in the dx. Il stick it all in a bag and weigh it before I dump it, just to make myself feel better bout the 6 hours of my life Il never get back

With Simons help, I also got the windscreen out. Iv used various methods in the past, but I happened to have a few old guitar strings lying round, so we tried one of those, I think it was a B. And that had to be the quickest and easiest way of getting a windscreen out, other than the professional tools.

I also finished stripping the engine bay of everything, and now that the car is stripped out, Il degrease/water blast it before going any further so Iv got a fairly clean car to work with.

Car looking pretty empty, waiting for new shiney bits to go back in. Some of the front will be cut out to mount the intercooler/radiator in the desired position, and new mounts made up as needed.

Pulled the guards off ready for degreasing, pretty stoked with how clean and straight the whole car looks...

[kyteler]

Good shit. I enjoyed removing the sound deadening in the C110, did it without dry-ice, came off pretty easy, older and thicker I guess being a '73. Was good to witness the clean floor underneath.

[nothingsfree]

Yeah it wasnt bad in Kermit, was almost fun seeing how big you could get the pieces breaking off. But no such luck in the 7, was really stuck on, and just broke off in little pieces. The other problem was down the drivers side of the gbox tunnel, the sound deadening had melted and cooled repeatedly from the heat of the exhaust and was even worse to get off.

[nothingsfree]

Should prolly transfer some of the gbox mod details seeing as its going in this car now...

This is something else Ive been working on for the project. I picked up a w58 gbox in good nic with new main bearings for cheap, and decided to try and modify it to work behind the 13bt. Although the series 5 box is able to take abit of power, they still tend to die sooner or later, and with this setup aiming for high 300's, the w58 is a better option. Plus I reckon the W series box shifts much nicer.

I had a s4/5 auto gbox lying round, so have used the bell housing off that. The bolt pattern on the back of the auto housing is round which makes it much easier to adapt to the w58, as I can just redrill the holes to match. I also need to remove 5-10mm from each end of the housing, which will shorten the box another 10-20mm from the length in the pic.

Then there is messing round with the clutch etc, but just want to try and fit it up first.

You can see in these pics the difference in length between the series 5 gbox and the w58 gbox, especially where the shifter sits.

W58 short shift kit, thanks to mesdup for pointing me in the right direction.

Same as his, short shifter kit for w58. Reduces the throw about 50%.

Quality looks real good, nice and solid, gearknob has a good weight to it as well.

Had my bell housing machined down, took 10mm off the front, and 5mm off the back. Hopefully that will be enough, if not there is room to take a little more anyway.

[rot808]

you do things way too properly to own an fc haha

i did passengers foot well then put carpet back in and did skids

you doing V-mount?