nothingsfree Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 After xmas I went on a selling mission, and sold my FC, my dx sedan and wagon. So for two days I was down to just one car, then I towed this home... The engine and box from Kermit is now going into this, as i have other plans for Kermit. The FC was a race car for years, and apart from a few dents in the roof from a bonnet flipping up, its pretty tidy. Had a number of spares that came with the car, including 8 of these with plenty of rubber left. The rolling diameter is almost the same as my 17inch wheels with low profile tires, so shouldnt have any issues swapping back and forth once I get the fitment right. Plans are to strip it right out to a bare shell, as very little of it will be going back in. Then strip the sound deadening, and finish the cage. Cage will be tied into the rear strut towers, as opposed to the wheel arches, and will have bars off the front of the cage thru the firewall to the front strut towers as well. Then I need mess around with mounting the engine, as I intend to mount it back a little further, partly for weight distro, but mainly because the w58 gbox is much shorter than a series5 gbox, and i dont want the gearstick too far forward. Trying to get a decent amount done before I head back to Oz for work, so hopefully should have some updates over the next few weeks before i bail... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombsquad Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 cant see discussion thread for green dx so ill post here, Holy mother of god those white wheels are the best wheels ive ever seen!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rot808 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 gonna be road reg? not much room for moving engine back unless you utilise a sledgehammer, thats what i use for fc mods anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelvin Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 cant see discussion thread for green dx so ill post here, Holy mother of god those white wheels are the best wheels ive ever seen!! wish i never sold it/them,the cars been sitting in some guys shed for over two years minis wheels and now de-reg also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingsfree Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 Yeah there is a thread for it, but its waaaay down somewhere haha. Yeah I just sold my white SE with those wheels on it before new years. Seen it round a few times and kinda wish Id held onto the wheels haha. rot808- Yeah plans are to get it road legal down the track, but that will be a while away. Have no issues using a BFH if called for, tho I have a bad habit of just cutting out whatever is in the way... What was getting in the way when you tried? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rot808 Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 tried moving engine back? i havent and probably wont try, just know theres lots of little crap on the side that wont take much to get close to firewall haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 they still make angle grinders and panel steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingsfree Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 tried moving engine back? i havent and probably wont try, just know theres lots of little crap on the side that wont take much to get close to firewall haha Yeah one of the boys down here moved his engine back a few inches in his series 5, tho he is using a cosmo 13bt so manifolds are different. Ah well, will soon find out whats in the way and let you know haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingsfree Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Shiny stuff update... New lightweight flywheel. Had C3P0 melted down for my pressure plate, using a heavy sprung pressure plate, with a 5puk clutch. Because Im trying to stick a w58 gbox to a 13bt, Im using a 13b flywheel and pressure plate, with a w58 clutch plate. Had a FC flexplate lying around, so am using the ring gear from that for my new flywheel. Not so shiny... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicT Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 What bellhousing setup do these use? Obviously a custom item. Are they expensive? Rota looks sick man. Rebuilt? Did you buy it rebuilt? Id love a series 4 - 5, but ill just pretend i do... Proberly a noob question as im new to 13b's but do they run a real counter weight? Or just the front one under the front cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingsfree Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Yeah sorry I just realised I hadnt put up engine details in this thread. Yeah rotaries run a counterweight on the back, if you are running a lightweight flywheel, you need a counterweight from a auto, as the standard flywheels have it built in. Looks like this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingsfree Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 Engine is a rebuilt series 5 13bt by RE Sinclair in Chch. -Extendport -3mm slotted rotors -Lightened and balanced -Doweled Will be using a stainless exhaust manifold, and have sold that turbo to use a slightly bigger stage 5 Turbonetics which hopefully will be good for high 300's at the wheels, but more importantly, should be pretty responsive. Im planning to use the car for abit of everything, but particularly track work, so response is more important than outright power. New turbo... Has only done a couple of dyno pulls, and a track day, and then had a freshen up. Gonna control the whole thing with this. For the price, its pretty hard to go past a Link Storm. So much adjustability, heaps of auxiliary outputs/inputs, and if I use the display unit I can have everything on one screen instead of a whole bunch of guages, which Im not keen on having. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombsquad Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Yeah rotaries run a counterweight on the back, if you are running a lightweight flywheel, you need a counterweight from a auto, as the standard flywheels have it built in. Looks like this...[/url] Not correct and could be a disastrous mistake. The rear counterwieght (if your running one) MUST be balanced to match to the front one, and there are many versions of front and rear weight which also varies depending on the weight of the rotors used (A,B,C,D,E) but thats a whole nother trap . You can use an auto counterweight of a flexiplate but ONLY if your running a ten pound flywheel and only on a unmollested series 5 block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicT Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Sweet, cheers for the info. I was getting mega confused about what else i needed for my engine to rebuild it. Motor looks sick, but howcome you opted for the Link storm over the Microtec LT10 that everone else seems to used? Nice to see someone going for more response and driveability then a dyno queen. Look forward to the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 hope your after 300hp at the wheels...from that set up not kw... i had a s4 with a stock motor, s5 turbo, lightened flywheel and link v5 computer. got 225hp at the wheels..@13psi,s4 injectors and pump,top mount i/c etc... so your set up should be quite a bit more will be fucking fun though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Yeah rotaries run a counterweight on the back, if you are running a lightweight flywheel, you need a counterweight from a auto, as the standard flywheels have it built in. Looks like this...[/url] Not correct and could be a disastrous mistake. The rear counterwieght (if your running one) MUST be balanced to match to the front one, and there are many versions of front and rear weight which also varies depending on the weight of the rotors used (A,B,C,D,E) but thats a whole nother trap . You can use an auto counterweight of a flexiplate but ONLY if your running a ten pound flywheel and only on a unmollested series 5 block. Yuh, get the entire rotating assembly (including flywheel) balanced before assembly. Also the reason why I retained a stock flywheel for my build, saves the hastle of the rear counterweight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombsquad Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 I dont see the point in running a light flywheel. Ive got a factory 12at one or the back of my 13b, it still revs hard as (the only advantage to a 10 pound) but retains torque and isnt gonna chuck the pressure plate out the bonnet at 9 grand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 9 Grand??? is that all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingsfree Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 Yeah rotaries run a counterweight on the back, if you are running a lightweight flywheel, you need a counterweight from a auto, as the standard flywheels have it built in. Looks like this...[/url] Not correct and could be a disastrous mistake. The rear counterwieght (if your running one) MUST be balanced to match to the front one, and there are many versions of front and rear weight which also varies depending on the weight of the rotors used (A,B,C,D,E) but thats a whole nother trap . You can use an auto counterweight of a flexiplate but ONLY if your running a ten pound flywheel and only on a unmollested series 5 block. Lol sorry, yeah forgot to mention the counterweight must still be balanced to the engine whatever it is, which this one has, hence the holes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingsfree Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 Sweet, cheers for the info. I was getting mega confused about what else i needed for my engine to rebuild it.Motor looks sick, but howcome you opted for the Link storm over the Microtec LT10 that everone else seems to used? Nice to see someone going for more response and driveability then a dyno queen. Look forward to the build. The Microtech would work, and like you say plenty of people use them. But they are a pretty outdated ecu these days, the G4 has 5 dimensional ignition and fuel mapping, intake air temp correction, barometric pressure compensation etc, and when your living in NZ and can have 4 seasons in one day, the ecu being able to adjust and fine tune as needed, is not a bad thing to have... I had to buy a ecu anyway, why not spend a little more, and buy something that has alot more to offer, and is a local company? hope your after 300hp at the wheels...from that set up not kw...i had a s4 with a stock motor, s5 turbo, lightened flywheel and link v5 computer. got 225hp at the wheels..@13psi,s4 injectors and pump,top mount i/c etc... so your set up should be quite a bit more will be fucking fun though Who knows till its on the dyno, but talking to the guys at Turbo Care, a similar turbo on a FD was making high 3's on about 15psi, so we will see... Youre right tho, will be fucking fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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