Thousand Dollar Supercar Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 There's a V8 one of these at Pickapart Mangere. Cool! Thanks! Maybe I can pick up a giant rubber spoiler, or even see if they bothered to give the V8 model better brakes. Wouldn't kill Pick-A-Part to actually put this on their website.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Neat! I dig these, a lot. Always have done. Promised my Aunty I would buy her one when I was a kid. Prices are acheivable now, although if I dumped a rusty hulk of a Rover SD1 on her lawn it probably wouldn't be the wisest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 that thermostat, although it's closed, may open rather early if it's toast. crown's old thermostat (which i thought was missing) would let the car run at aroun 40degrees all the time, even though it was closed when you took it out. for $15 it's a part worth replacing. that sender's third wire would run a warning light i assume? did you try earthing the terminal that's broken on the engine black and see what happened? (check it's not got a live feed first though) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 is the new thermostat missing the bypass foot/ if so, you defiitely need that. pull the wire off the temp sener and ground it. if it's singel wire as most temp senders are, and you ground it, it should make the gauge shoot to the top of the hot side of the scale. this helps you confirm that both the wring, and the gauge unit itself are ok. if all works as expected then your sender is at fault. piece of piss. could also be an issue with earthing in behind the cluster and shit knowing late 70s leyland product. I used to fight that problem with a mini clubman i had for ages good to hear that oil pressure is where it's meant to be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thousand Dollar Supercar Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 Is the new thermostat missing the bypass foot? If so, you definitely need that. The bit it's missing is indicated in red in this photo: 'Bypass foot' sounds like the right term. What does it do / will I die if I don't put it back in? Pull the wire off the temp sender and ground it. If it's single wire as most temp senders are, and you ground it, it should make the gauge shoot to the top of the hot side of the scale. Cool, will try that tomorrow. =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 yeah it's exactly that. when the thermostat is closed, that foot wont cover the small pipe that would lead from near that pipe, to the water pump or something. that pipe's there to circulate watr around the block, stopping hot spots whilst the thermostat is closed. once te thermostat opens, that foot moves down, blocking the bypass pipe. if it remains open, most of the coolant flow will jsut be around the block, and not into the radiator. it'll never keep cool enough when on the move and you'll have a bad day. lol. if thety can't find you the rght one, jsut get them to give you their tridon bookin the back is a breakdown of thermostats by their sizing and shit. you should be able to find one tha's perfect/near enough with a little filing or something. i always use suzuki swift/sj413 (i think) thermostats on peugeots as they're exactly the same except about 1mm larger in diameter which the bench grinder happily machines off there in an instant. and it beats waiting 1-2 days for a peugeot one (apparently it's not worth stocking them in feilding) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 do same to check oil presure gauge sender they work off the same set of resistances (roughly) jsut use a mechanical method inside that big sender to arrive at the relative resistance compared to the temp senders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thousand Dollar Supercar Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 do same to check oil presure gauge sender Why, just for amusement? Oil pressure gauge seems to be reading OK. I confirmed it runs off its own big fat sensor (which I only just found today) by unplugging the single wire to this sensor while the engine was running and watching the gauge drop to zero. Oil pressure warning light still spends part of the time flickering or being lit, despite me replacing the sensing switch with a new one that didn't have one terminal snapped off. That means I'm down to an electrical fault or actual poor oil circulation (OK at the gauge sensor but poor at the warning light switch?) Maybe I could put a jumper wire across the plug which connects to the new oil pressure warning light switch. If the light still flickers when my jumper should be keeping it permanently off, I've got an electrical fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 oh my bad. late night reading comprehension at all time low. you could do that, however, first, i'd look into manually checking your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge of sorts, to make sure you do actually have *good* oil pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thousand Dollar Supercar Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 I don't have such a mechanical gauge. So I pulled the plug off the oil pressure switch - dash light doesn't come on while the plug remains disconnected. I tried shorting out pins in the plug - one combination of pins actually causes the motor to crank over! Now that's beating the Italians at their own game. I mounted my multimeter on the windscreen wiper, visible from inside the car, and connected it to the oil pressure switch. While driving I could see that the light on the dash unfortunately tells the truth. Every now and then the multimeter would briefly register a finite resistance where it should have read open circuit the whole time. The broken terminal on the original oil pressure switch was just the one which starts the engine, so it wasn't even stopping the switch from delivering the correct signal to the light. The switch didn't need replacement, and it's looking more like I have oil flow problems. Engine flush? Italian tuneup? Long summer road trip? I blame grandpa (the car's last owner) for this situation, driving slowly down the road to the dairy once a week and sludging up the oil, then only changing it when it came time to sell the car. I've just won the auction on the not-Haynes repair manual, hopefully I can get that shipped soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 that sludge is probably holding all your oil in the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borgweiser Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Hard out, pour two litres of diesel in the engine. run it round the block a few times then dump oil and get good quality filter.. Should be sweet, also remove pressure relief valve and scrape all the gunk out and replace spring, if the old boys been neglecting oil changes there will def be a problem there. otherwise your droppin the sump mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 ^ rodgeeeerrrrrr if you can remove the sup with the engine in situ it can't be a bad idea to scrape all the crud out the bottom, either. my id had like an inch of crap at the bottom of the sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 recomended ever 15000 miles in the morrie to take sump off and scrape out the shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Those jacks are stupendously dangerous/awesome. Theoretically, if it it's supposed to have that jack from factory, there's holes in the chassis at either end of the sill. The little beam part of the jack fits into those holes and the base stands on the ground, you wind the handle opposite directions for up or down. My brother's old VB had one, as did my old VK and the Prince Skyline has one similar though much cooler because it's old as and solid as fuck, but just as unstable. Also, good to see your keeping at it. I wanted one of these in my younger days, the shape was pretty schmick, I thought. Used to be a haggard one with a half arsed body-kit that got around down here, young chap driving it, looked horrific but being a 3500, sounded awesome. Also, BASTOS Rover rules my face off. Anyway, as you were. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isnowi Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 You need some of this: http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 exhaust tip's got that kick in it to prevent fumes re-entering the car. i say keep it. bx's without them, even with a mint boot seal, get smogged out hard. same goes with xj6's and the like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 This doesn't live in Glenfield by any chance does it? If not then theres an identical one parked a few houses down from my mates place with a guy working on it all the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thousand Dollar Supercar Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 You need some of this: http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm Haha, I was wondering how long that page would take to show up! Q: I'm afraid you've become trapped in a classic Joseph Heller conundrum. You assert that this is an authentic Lucas part and offer substantial testimony that it works and is effective in many applications. It would seem impossible that it could work and also be a genuine Lucas product. A: This is known as the Nuffield Paradox. It can't be helped. It is the reason BL finally adopted a clenching sphincter as their corporate logo. exhaust tip's got that kick in it to prevent fumes re-entering the car. Oh yeah.. makes sense.. This doesn't live in Glenfield by any chance does it? If not then theres an identical one parked a few houses down from my mates place with a guy working on it all the time "You can't hide nowhere, with the torchlight on" as Midnight Oil once said.. I wish the SD1 wasn't too long and low to get down the drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Great quote there. I'll come and say hi next time I see you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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