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Threeonthetree's Rover SD1 2600SE


Threeonthetree

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If you're gunna throw a V8 at it, at least make it a performant one: 1uzfett.

Keeping it 6 cyl would be sweet, then you've got RB30DET and friends to choose from, along with the 2JZ and who knows what else. Before you do any of that though, throw a decent hg on it and 10psi and you might be happy with it as is.

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I will give the Rover 6 a bit more of a chance, because it's by far the cheapest and easiest way to get the car mobile. I was speaking to a guy in Whangarei this week who has a Rover 6 for sale for cheap. Do I bung a new gasket on mine and cross my fingers, or buy his and take the head off it and have it tested, or buy his and try to swap out my whole motor for his one so I don't have to separate his block and head?

I was reading up on the Rover V8 and although it would be the easiest engine transplant, My research indicates it's not the world's best motor either. :| As someone else on here concluded, there are weaknesses and snags to just about all the various iterations of the engine. An old 3500 V8 motor would be likely to gargle me down the road at a less-than-rapid pace (while still chewing down the fuel), thanks to camshaft wear, timing chain stretch, leaking headgaskets etc. But I doubt I could convince Mr Certification Man that I could keep the 2600's standard brakes due to the lazy performance of my limping V8. :wink:

Interesting fact - The Rover V8, based off a '60s Buick design, is still being made. You can buy crate motors made from brand new strengthened blocks. The antique pushrod misery within will battle onward to all of about 5500rpm and produce a couple of hundred horsepowers, but less power for more money than if you didn't insist on going with a dinosaur engine. Inefficient motors tend to sound the best, but I don't know what's the best balance of cost vs reliability for this car in the medium term.

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10psi on the factory rover 2.6? you have to be kidding fred.

if you got a late model injected engine from a disco/rangie it wouldn't be so bad. alot of the reason they use so much gas is that they are in 4wd vehicles that weigh well over 2 tons.

on the reality front, if you can go and hear the engine running (and it's ok) it's probably better to take the whole thing and not dismantle it. rebuilding stuff is one of the key areas of introducing failures (statistically proven fact by the aviation industry 50 years ago) so if it works ok and meets requirements best not the touch it.

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Your head is fine, just get it fixed up (that valve), and assemble it properly using a good gasket, unlike the last guy, and you'll be sweet. If you do go crazy (wait, you already are) and get a whole nother engine, then don't take it apart first, leave the good seal intact at least at first...

Just fix the head and reassemble properly :-)

Fred

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  • 5 weeks later...

I'm surprised that it was soft down one side! But if you took it to the guy I think you did, I trust him. And the valve, hmmm, if he took it out to give that diagnosis, sure, otherwise, hmmmm. Still, again, I trust him!

I rofled at your sheepers quote and the subsequent head man quote.

Not sure if you heard, but I roasted my ute engine royally. You should come round and check it out when I get it over here. Currently in Howick.

The thing with OEM boost levels, such as 10psi, is that they don't stress the engine much more than stock, except thermally. You DO get much more torque/power, though, which is a nice freebee in most cases.

Right, back to trying to figure out where my number 2 piston ended up...

Fred.

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Your sentance structure and grammar pleases me.

Your misspelling of 'sentence' makes me die a little bit inside. :tongue:

Obsession with this stuff is an unfortunate affliction, kind of like the compulsion to blindly buy sick puppy cars and pretend they're awesome when I should be putting bullets in them. Somebody cure me please. :pale:

Or not. I've mounted those cheesy air filters but they're not fitting properly yet. All the factory air intake stuff is gone and I'm having to find another place to mount the air horns, which are getting a repaint while they're out. I'll take photos of the engine bay once it's all done. :)

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I am a Field Service Engineer (i.e. technician) for APC-by-Schneider-Electric, who make "Network Critical Physical Infrastructure" (i.e. stuff for server rooms excluding the actual computers). My area is UPSs (power conditioning and battery backup) and the management/monitoring toys. So yes I have something to do with electrickery. It makes real good party conversation. :rolleyes:

Here's my work ute in Whangarei:

http://www.axys.co.nz/ben/whangareistation_s.jpg

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Oooer, i'm going to find out who set up the UPS in a pak n save here, because it doesn't work haha and i have to be there to shut down scales so they can work on it.

Man, if i'd known you fiddle that gear we could/will swap work stories.

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..you seriously pick the weirdest/awesomest/gross cars to buy...

:D

That's part of what's interesting about old cars / this forum. Nowdays car makers have arrived at the 'right' answers for every aspect of car design and there won't be any more weird / unique / whimsical stuff.

It's the intention behind some designs that makes them cool or interesting, e.g. our 1980s Jap car will be awesome if we write "Turbo!" on and fit a talking digital dash from the future / our muscle car will rule if we just turn it up to eleven / I think we can win if only we introduce Supershift/pneumatic suspension/four wheel steering/inboard brakes/the rotary/popup headlights/elliptic steering wheels/electric seat bolsters/super pursuit mode / our Italian car is fantastico because you see, we make-a her so sporty in these blindly optimistic ways (but fundamentally fail at most other aspects of car design, then go home early for pizza..)

Look, new signature! :wink:

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  • 4 weeks later...

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