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Joining wiring


Josh

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Stupidly easy question I'm sure, but I've never crossed it and want to do it right.

Just about to wire in the light for my boost and oil pressure gauges, can I just run a wire from the +ve side of one one the gauges in and working already to the +ve on the ones I'm installing, effectivly bridging it I guess. Or will this cause trouble/shorting?

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whats the best way to join into a wire thats already there, can you like 't' off it with another wire?

Soldering wires together under a dashboard an be hazardous to your health.

I would just go and spend a couple of dollars at Repco on some plastic wire taps.

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whats the best way to join into a wire thats already there, can you like 't' off it with another wire?

Soldering wires together under a dashboard an be hazardous to your health.

I would just go and spend a couple of dollars at Repco on some plastic wire taps.

5601.gif

nasty horrible things, wouldn't touch em with a barge pole!

if you really want to do it properly get a crimping tool and connectors

a chocolate block connector will work too.

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Yes went and saw your mate paul/brought them, went to engineering store to get a piece to fit onto bits brought from repco and the guy there sorted me out with the fitting I needed (couldn't last time and didn't seem to remember who I was), so didn't need the bits from repco after all. Got the shitty bits all sorted though which is what i wanted!!

Cheers for wiring advice. Have 3 gauges to wire in. Oil pressure gauge has an ignition wire, if I just pull casing off around steering wheel and find a wire thats dead when keys off and on when well...keys on with a volt meter, will be sufficent?

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the problem with soldering joints is that the end of the solder becomes a point of weakness, and excessive vibration can cause failure. For some reason, this doesn't happen with crimped joints. I expect the heat shrink stuff'll help too.

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the problem with soldering joints is that the end of the solder becomes a point of weakness, and excessive vibration can cause failure. For some reason, this doesn't happen with crimped joints. I expect the heat shrink stuff'll help too.

that will only happen if the join isnt completed properly ...should always heatshrink that shit .

also those taps are grouse quick connectors they are called (in my circle anyhow).

i hate chochblocks with a passion .

and yuh escortas is right mate ... dont make your dash wiring look like a tree .. its just yuck and makes it sooo fucking hard to trace problems that occur later on

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the problem with soldering joints is that the end of the solder becomes a point of weakness, and excessive vibration can cause failure. For some reason, this doesn't happen with crimped joints. I expect the heat shrink stuff'll help too.

never heard of that happening if its done right. :? if your cars vibrating that bad a solder joint breaking is the least of ya problems. :lol:

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the problem with soldering joints is that the end of the solder becomes a point of weakness, and excessive vibration can cause failure. For some reason, this doesn't happen with crimped joints. I expect the heat shrink stuff'll help too.

never heard of that happening if its done right. :? if your cars vibrating that bad a solder joint breaking is the least of ya problems. :lol:

naw man is common as man even from factory

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the problem with soldering joints is that the end of the solder becomes a point of weakness, and excessive vibration can cause failure. For some reason, this doesn't happen with crimped joints. I expect the heat shrink stuff'll help too.

never heard of that happening if its done right. :? if your cars vibrating that bad a solder joint breaking is the least of ya problems. :lol:

naw man is common as man even from factory

like i said if done correctly, descent splice with a 10mm solder ander an inch or two of WCSM it wont move anywhere to break.

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