star junkyard Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 if you wanna give a starion m/c a try im local and ive got a spare you can have a play with. send us a pm if u wana try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trigger Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 sweet! cheers for that man, I'll try a few things out on the weekend and see what happens, but I'll let you know, and could be keen to take you up on your offer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
star junkyard Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 algud. dnt get on the net much over wk/end so if u wanna give it a go txt me on telecom 3806605 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_GT Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Hey, I haven't read through this in detail just quickly skimmed. But make sure your vacuum hose is in good condition. My pedal used to go spongy when engine bay got warm, turned out my vacuum hose had weakened as was collapsing when warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 When I've had issues I could never work out I found easiest way = Bleed well. Put a vice grip on all corners, try pump it and see if any pressure. If no pressure then its probably a M/C issue or you have a loose connection somewhere before the vice grips. If hard then take one ice grip off at a time and bleed each corner then replace vice grip. can usually tell just by removing a vice grip and pumping whether or not the issue is in that corner. ie soft pedal for just one corner. Goodluck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 ok iv got a similar issue with my lancer so ill throw it in here, ex lancer stock 1200cc master and booster starion front struts and s14 rear calipers car drove round for 6 months and got cert with setup brakes were sweet as went to a track day kaned the fuck out of my car and it loved it driving home brakes pedal had more throw, from what i can remember car sat around at home for ages, i rebuilt the rear brakes (coz the were sticking if left sitting on for ages) and chucked them back on (front were rebuilt 6 months ago) rebleed front and rear brakes heaps with the engine off give the pedal a couple of pumps and its hard as a rock but turn the car on and it has a bit of travel and never really gets to that rock hard stage if you pump it, the pedal feels reasonably solid but the braking performance is definately down on what it was before, you can jump on it hard as fark and it wont lock up put a vice grip on any of the lines, (only needs to be one line) and the pedal goes hard as instantly any ideas? pads are getting quite low but they should self adjust, corrrect? is it possible that now the pads are worn down its bringing to light a mismatched m/c like uj is talking about? but didnt think theyd go hard like they do when the cars off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 replace all the fluid, its probly shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 yea all fluid is brand new rinsed heaps through the system thought that was just my issue, it has improved just not 100% guna grab another bottle twomorrow and do the whole system again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trigger Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 I've been a slack cunt and havent had a chance to get out to the shed and try anything yet... But guess that happens when your wife gives birth a few weeks early! maybe in a few weeks I'll get out there... ? Ke36: at least your setup "was" working at some satge so hopefully it just needs a GOOD bleed with some DOT 4-5 fluid? Be keen to hear how you get on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 ok rebleed the rear brakes tonight and replaced the rear pads with the top ones repco do off the shelf guna change the fronts in a few days when i have time id say its maybe alittle better but cant really tell still definately improves when you give it a couple of pumps now im starting to question myself and wonder if this is as good as the ever were?? when they car is off they are mint, hard as rock im fuckin over bleeding them, have gone thru 1.5l fluid making sure there completely flushed and bleed how do you work out what size master you need to match to your brakes? i know my rear caliper piston diameter, guna measure the front when i change the pads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Mate, think about what you are saying ^ The problem is only there when the engine is running so it must be vacuum related. Perhaps consider a small split in the booster diaphragm as the culprit. The rest of your braking circuit sounds perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 whats the best way to check it? pedal falls away under foot a little when you first start car, which is wat it is meant to do? cant hear any noise/hissing when you turn car off like a leak i would like to work out what master i need for infos sake cos im always keen for ways of upgrading my car and im sure others will use the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 Sorry, I don't know the correct proceedure for checking a vacuum booster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 UJ, if the diaphragm was torn the pedal wouldn't change when you start the engine? a good way to check if you have integrity in your vacuum system is to turn the car off then give you brakes a couple of pumps. you should be able to get two proper hard pedal travels before you run out of vacuum. there are some really important points in this thread, it is imperative that you have about 0.50 to 1.00mm gap between your booster plunger and your master cylinder plunger. the other one i can think of is bleeding your master, you can do this on the car, just crack the outlets and get the air out as much as posable. another thing you could try is your caliper piston seals. they look like gay square bits of rubber formed into a ring but they do an incredibly important job. they decide how much (all other things being equal) your piston retreats once you take your foot off the pedal. try re-building your calipers with some new seals and some proper rubber grease. have a good look at the pistons. if you see any deformation or build up remove it with some 2000 gritt paper and some ÇRC. apart from that i have no idea why your brakes are giving you such trouble. but please let us know when you find the problem. sheepers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 Sorry, I don't know the correct proceedure for checking a vacuum booster would u care to share the info on how to match master cylinder size to piston caliper sizes? sheepers brakes are good, both sets have been rebuilt in the last 6 months and yea i think the booster is ok as from what i can read on the net it does all the things it should do, when tested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 whats the best way to check it?pedal falls away under foot a little when you first start car, which is wat it is meant to do? cant hear any noise/hissing when you turn car off like a leak i would like to work out what master i need for infos sake cos im always keen for ways of upgrading my car and im sure others will use the info Sorry, I don't know the correct proceedure for checking a vacuum booster yea pedal should go down a bit when you start the car . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS5620 Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Hello I have a brake problem. Brakes are rock hard!! they are not boosted because its an old cortina. I bleed them up this arvo, seemed sweet and then bleed all nipples once more now they are hard as rock?? What to do to fix this?? Any help appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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