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different front camber values


Ke36

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after having a look at triggers post about his lancer getting his wheel alingment done i thought id dig up my old sheet showing the specs of what mine measured up to and i notuiced something i hadnt even noticed the first time

basically it says my left front wheel has -2.37 deg of camber while my right front wheel has only -1.23deg of camber :?

firstly the difference is a worry to me and secondly how the hell can one side be so different to the other?(none of my setup bar the springs is adjustable)

bent something?surely the guy should have picked up on the difference?

heres the actual printouts

img0945f.jpg

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road surface is a big factor seeign as we have (insert the name of the road system we use) which are big humps so the passenger side needs more camber to keep the car straight on the road , the driver one has less because it is theoritcally closer to the top of the hump thus less camber .

its like some cars the have a longer passenger spring the drivers side so the car looks slightly on the piss when its on the level .

i also lol'd at the toe in measurement

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the passenger side needs more camber to keep the car straight on the road ,
You certain about that man?

Trying to think about that, cant see how that would work.

Also about the one side spring longer i :doubt: that too. Its just cos most cars have an extra 70kg+ on the drivers side for the entire length of its driven life = more sag than your grandma / mrs.

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the passenger side needs more camber to keep the car straight on the road ,
You certain about that man?

Trying to think about that, cant see how that would work.

Also about the one side spring longer i :doubt: that too. Its just cos most cars have an extra 70kg+ on the drivers side for the entire length of its driven life = more sag than your grandma / mrs.

shit then correct me mate and not with another doubt . i dont mind being made to look stupid so long as its certain :lol:

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i dont think that its meant to have more camber for the curve of the road

heres triggas whell alingment sheet with his same suspension setup

WOF003.jpg

his is much more equal and to boot its his right side which is slighlty more negative

his is essentially the same setup as mine

possibly bent lower arm or strut?the only things that could really affect?

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mmm...

werid how both our cars run pretty much the same setup but are different :?

After I get the 1st oil change out of the way on mine, I'm taking back to

the guy who built/sorted my suspension and see what he says

thought about getting some "adjustable" top hats to even up the front neg. camber

(but maybe not enough difference to worry about?)

Think I'll try get the caster re-done tho, and re-align rear wheels :rolleyes:

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yea im guna go have a yarn to the guy that did the alingment, he is pretty switched on and does a fair number of race cars etc down here , wheel alingment is pretty much the only thing he does

so im at a loss to think he either missed it or has muddled it up

the way i see it the only two things that could affect it are the lower arm or the strut

(im also guessing if anything is stuffed its my passenger side as thats the one that is a deg different to yours)

but again everything else is brand new and the strut and lower arm didnt have any damage etc on them from what i remeber that would cause it

if it is just a natural differenc that is stuff all ill def be getting some top hats sorted to even it up

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normally if the wheel alignment place is gonna factor in for the curve of the road you would run a little more caster on the left....

and its pretty common for camber to be uneven... but a whole degree is quite alot IMO, as a rough guide you need to move 10mm to change a degree, so id start by measureing lower arms and make sure there the same

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then stub axel angle by measureing how close the rim is to the strut at top and compare with other side, see if crossmember can be slid side to side, then see if top hats can be rotated to give differnt offset, i'd also be looking at the height to see if its sitting even, if a shock was leaking and one corner was 10mm lower? wouldnt expect it to affect it that much...

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Yea the whole more camber on the left is true, to hold it up on the road due to the cambered roads we have here.

The car will go to which ever side has less negative camber (basically think of the left wheel leaning over to the right or neg camber) on a straight road. But be careful as the Castor angle affects this to and is taken into consideration when wheel alignments are done (only good ones thou)

Also if your getting your wheel alignment done make sure that during it, the wheel alignment tech hops in at some stage, to see what the cambers change to. Weight will change all the cambers. I'm 90kg and i change almost every wheel alignment by half a degree both sides sooooooooooooooooooo....

if you have -1 degree left and 0 on right and i hop in it'll go to -1.5 left and +.5 right. so the disparity between them gets more and more which can also cause probs - wearing tyres.

It'll change again when you have a passenger and so on.

We had 1 Holden Epica (shitbox) that drove mint with one of us driving it but it came back complaint of going to the left as the oldies were both in it all the time.

Eventually as there is no camber adjust in the front of these we had to put an eccentric adjustable camber bolts in the struts - (can be done with all cars that have 2 bolts holding strut to hub (McPherson) etc - and you can get about 1.5 degrees adjustment out of them total.

Eventually you get rid of the left hook and it drives beauty on most roads, and then will go to the right on level road ggggrrrrrrr.

Sorry for the Rant - hope this helps you guys out.

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driftnmaz is correct with the Castor thing - all depends on how much camber or Castor you have - if your going to use it on the track then i just set it up with everything even as most tracks are flat and your going harry hard out so a slight pull on the road shouldn't bother you.

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then stub axel angle by measureing how close the rim is to the strut at top and compare with other side, see if crossmember can be slid side to side, then see if top hats can be rotated to give differnt offset, i'd also be looking at the height to see if its sitting even, if a shock was leaking and one corner was 10mm lower? wouldnt expect it to affect it that much...

sweet will check that shit, pretty sure the top hats are even

the car sits even height wise but for some farked up reason (can only b weight i guess) i have to have it wound down 10mm or so on the left side to sit at the same even

possible when my threaded tubes for the spring perches were welded on it something isnt right?but would think the spring would just be a little bent if its not 100%

aslong as the shock goes up straight

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rear is hilux solid axle, non adjustable springs

measuring both centre of rim to guard height and sill at a pillar

when i was having issues i measured the adjustables everywhich way and they are definately the same, changed springs etc

wouldn't worry about it too much. Slot the holes on the right hand side for max camber on left and right.

if it is just a natural thing, i.e not something broken etc then ill just get adjustable tophats to even it up

its jsut going by everything it should be even

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