drftnmaz Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 when the rear is not adjusable then i would measure that to set the front, you might find you need to wind the front up at one side to get the weight sitting even, just a thought really, you need to measure all that other stuff first tho usally easyist to masure on the rear is from top of rim to guard lip, but this isn't the most accurate way but best place to see how uneven it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 height in the rear from center of rim to gaurd is less than 5mm difference with the passenger side slightly lower than the drivers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 we have the camber set at negative 0.8mm all around on the datsuns that I have had so that when you corner fast your feet are touching the ground and depending on how we want car we have 1.5mm toe in for light steering or 1.5mm toe out for heavy steering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drftnmaz Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 so is the right rear 5mm higher than the left rear? is so wind up left front to get it even, you sorta need to go for a drive round the block to let it settle after adjusting aswell in my head it sounds like the left front needs to be wound up a little and maybe the crossmeber lossened then crowbar'd across then re tightened then same on top hats and i'd say you'll get your figures much closer have you measured all those other bits we talked about earlier? need to check those so your not chasing your tail all day i just noticed your toe is neg on one side and postivite on the other, this would mean those figures arn't on center, that with the left side having more caster could give a greater camber angle on the left because its turning inwards so maybe its alot closer to even when wheels are straight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 to start off with yea measured up lower arms and they are equal from mounting point on crossmember to balljoint shocks dont appear to be bent as they have equal wheel spacing to the wheel edge at the top of the wheel went tand had a talk to the wheel alignment guy today he said that it is a bit of a difference he also said about how if i was just using it as a street car he wouldnt worry, as it would help it ride up on the crown of the road like others have said however since its a weekend warrior/turning more and more track orientated his suggestion was to get it back in set it all up on the machine and see if i can get some moevment out of it like you suggest through the crossmember and then if it is still way out do the old elongate the holes in the xmember on the right side to bring that one out to match the -2 value so its either that or i get some adjustable top hats made up he also said that hed add in up to 4deg of castor for better turn in and get rid of the toe all together, which he explained was at its current value so driving on the road it is easier on the tyres (offsets the wear of my -ve camber) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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