phr34kr Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 i took some measurements the other day and the lip can easily end up around 80mm from the ground (and will once im finished with it ) -should also be able to fit some slightly wider rims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 So if anyone could identify this gearbox that would be great all i know is that its a 4 speed ford box. Also if anyone knows if ill be able to re power it with a different engine and then be able to get it re vin'd that would be great also. Would someone have to see it before it was modified or anything?? i know i would need a cert but im wondering if it will be possible to get one and get it back on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 anything is posable with an engine transplant really. have a bit of a look around and a measure up, get some ideas together of what types of engine you would like to use then talk to your local certifying engineer. he'll be able to tell you what will be required and what will be the option that fits your criteria best. but for fucks sake have a plan of what you want to end up with and stick to it or youll never drive the thing again!! its such a sweet car and i think its going to be a very cool car when your finished so keep going with it. it might help you to weigh your old engine so you have some idea what you can stick in it without having to many suspension/steering issues. keep up the good work dude! sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Gearboxes are the same as v6 transits and Zephyrs/Zodiacs, who knows what they are really.... This gave me lols - a list of parts used in the scimitar that came from other cars; http://www.donkennedy.madasafish.com/Scimitar/AltParts/AltParts.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 anything is posable with an engine transplant really.have a bit of a look around and a measure up, get some ideas together of what types of engine you would like to use then talk to your local certifying engineer. he'll be able to tell you what will be required and what will be the option that fits your criteria best. but for fucks sake have a plan of what you want to end up with and stick to it or youll never drive the thing again!! its such a sweet car and i think its going to be a very cool car when your finished so keep going with it. it might help you to weigh your old engine so you have some idea what you can stick in it without having to many suspension/steering issues. Yea iv had a little bit of a look around at first i was looking into a rover v8 as this has been done before and would be quite in fitting with the car and its era but after doing some research and thinking iv come to the conclusion that i don't want to go down this route it will still have quite a large displacement and i think i would prefer a jap engine and gearbox for reliability. I was thinking at first about a 1Uz but i think i will have issues as they look to be very wide and my steering rack is in front of the engine currently as the engine sits quite far back in the car behind the front wheels. so thinking over the space i have ( i have heaps of length in the engine bay as ill be mounting the radiator of what ever i decide to put in right in the front instead of far back inside the engine bay from standard) so im thinking a straight 6 is my best bet for trying to avoid huge clearance issues. On the weight side of things im fairly sure that whatever i will put in will be significantly lighter than the essex but i am going to be spending alot of time on the suspension anyway so i should be able to sort this out. Yea the plan is slowly coming together i know that this will take quite some time but am prepared to stick at it to get it exactly how i want it and finished to the highest standard i can achieve. i am fairly set on the look of the car body wise and this is what im trying to achive having the scimitar lettering shaven off the front makes them look a lot cleaner. This gave me lols - a list of parts used in the scimitar that came from other cars;http://www.donkennedy.madasafish.com/Sc ... tParts.htm thanks for the link i haven't seen that info sheet before i im sure it will be very useful, i knew they used alot of things from other cars and i new i few of the important bits but the info is awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Interested to see what consensus is re getting re-VIN, as I am in the same boat with my premier, I am thinking at this stage I will just get it re-vinned with a 202, as that was what it came with before putting a 308 or 350 chev into into it. Its easy to get a running 202 sorted though - you may have more trouble getting a trouble free essex motor sussed. So if phr34kr does a transplant before re-vin what would the process be? cert then revin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted January 9, 2010 Author Share Posted January 9, 2010 Okay have had a measure up of a few different engines got dimensions of both an rb20det and a sr20det the rb is way too long, i will never be able to work the steering as the rack is in front of the strut towers and i can take it forward but only a few inches easily, i had an idea about switching the hubs/suspension assembly over side for side and having the calipers in front of the strut towers and the steering arms pointing backwards but this means i would have to put the engine up quite high to be able to not have the steering fouling on the block . the Sr20 however would fit very easily but not sure if i want to put this engine in it as it might just be too different IDK. Still need to talk to a certifier about possibility of a cert etc but will get onto that soon. And i also have another idea i would really like to add a flip front to the car for ease of access to the engine like this as far as physically doing this goes i can do it with relative ease, its just the certification part that's putting me off but il talk to the certifier about this as well. Has anyone had any experience doing this sort of thing to a road car in NZ? I'm maybe thinking frontal impact issues with the added steel for the 'hinge' but i hope this will not be an issue with the age of the car and as far as strength goes its just a glass body anyway all the strength comes from the chassis. Also and i know people have had experience with this whats the deal with doing rust repairs, do i need to have it looked over by an engineer and get it all checked out etc? or can i just weld in a new piece ( if i had a rusty part of the chassis) if it was made of the same guage of steel as the standard chassis and done well would it still need an engineers report or anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanners Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 Supercharger = girls rubbing their vaginas on your leg Good choice, im so sick of turbos even tho i have one, shame on me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sc@ Chi Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 Has anyone had any experience doing this sort of thing to a road car in NZ? I'm maybe thinking frontal impact issues with the added steel for the 'hinge' but i hope this will not be an issue with the age of the car and as far as strength goes its just a glass body anyway all the strength comes from the chassis. You're right, you have the advantage of a separate chassis. Should make it much easier. You should draw up what you plan to do, making sure it's neither weaker than the original structure nor too strong, i.e. retains some of the original crumple zones. I know, it doesn't make sense with old cars but it's what I did with my plans for a Mini flip front (a crumple zone in a Mini? Well, it's what they said...). Then send your drawing to the LVVTA technical committee (costs $35 or something like that) and they'll approve your plans. Build it to the plans and you're sorted. Bear in mind that not all certifiers can sign off chassis modifications like this. You'll be needing a certifier anyway with the engine swap, so planning ahead and talking it through makes sense. They will be able to guide you as well, usually over the phone or email. The LVVTA forum is a great resource; Justin (the admin) seems to monitor it and answer questions accurately and quickly. I just wish I'd asked a question there before starting down a suspension upgrade on our Clubman Estate... I like Scimitars, or anything that is less likely to rust. They still look great even though the design must be 40 years old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 Cheers for that information, although i think ill keep the front standard for now at least on the road car for ease of completion and the fact that i don't want to mess up the body for the road car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted September 6, 2010 Share Posted September 6, 2010 Sounds like you are setting up the NZ branch of Scimitars-R-us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted September 6, 2010 Author Share Posted September 6, 2010 I know, its amazing how much space cars take up when you dismantle them, the garage was nice and tidy but now i have huge piles of stuff to sort out and because parts are not all that common in nz i don't want to throw away any of the original stuff even if its fairly knackered and i wont ever use it. Hopefully once this one is on the road it will seem more worthwhile rather than the piles of parts just getting in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakesae101 Posted September 6, 2010 Share Posted September 6, 2010 looks like a fair wack of bog where that roof chop has been done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted September 6, 2010 Author Share Posted September 6, 2010 There's a bit of bog in there yeah but when i use that body ill end up modifying it anyway, they had a lot of bog in them from factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 Thinking of selling the supercharger to get money to go towards a daily driver, anyone interested in a m90 in good condition with a rather large throttle body? (will put a FS up when i fully decide to sell it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted November 14, 2010 Author Share Posted November 14, 2010 i believe reliant used a Mini indicator assembly, mine seems a little worn out so i was wondering if there are any more modern or reliable alternatives, the indicator assembly needs to be able to be clamped to the steering column looks like this; also does anyone know the minimum gauge wiring needed to switch relays, i was thinking of using network cable (as this would be a really clean solution to my problem) but i am unsure if it will handle the current? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horse25 Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 i wouldnt use cat 5e, the size of the copper is tiny compared to normal wire you would use. dont think it would handle the current like you say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted November 14, 2010 Author Share Posted November 14, 2010 Does anyone know the current relays draw for switching? cat6 network cable is 23 guage so bigger than cat5e but not by much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phr34kr Posted November 14, 2010 Author Share Posted November 14, 2010 A quick google search shows that most coil resistances are well above 100 ohms so I=V/R 12/100=0.12A looking here http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm the table says that 23AWG wire is good for power transmission of 0.79A I realize that the voltage will probably be higher than 12v but still it should easily carry this current, am i working out the draw of the realy's coil correctly are there other things i am not taking into account? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gte Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 Epic read Man! I am doing up one that I have just brought and all this stuff you have shared is invaluable! Interested what you have to say about the factory raising the car 2 inches, I would like to lower it by this amount, I have the factory manual... would this be a really hard job??? Also I notice you say you have a second pair of doors from the second body that you brought that are in far better condition than the first... on the way back home after purchasing my GTE, the NDV (quater light) fell out of the door and smashed, the frame got run over and is stuffed. I looked at buying one for like 7 pounds, but the freight makes it silly, .... I was wondering if you would sell me one, I need the r/h side. What would you do with the bumpers, like mine need rechrome, but that is expensive,,,, maybe sand them and paint them, your thoughts? Cheers again for sharing so much, I will post photos of doing mine up.... you are an inspiration! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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