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Rotary timing and shite


danger

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Right my sevens getting close now I went to do static timing today and i'm newb as at this shit.

I set the motor to what i believe is TDC (apex seal across the L1 spark plug hole)

I've had the pulley off to paint it and not sure if its on the right way but the timing marks seemed about an eighth of a turn early of the timing needle at this point is this normal?

And where do i line the dizzy up to internally now?

Also what weight oil do people recommend for a 13b bridgeport?

Dont tell me to go to rotahavik i cant read their shit and get lost in their boobie thread so any real help would be appreciated

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you just line up the mark on the distributer gear and body and put it in sometimes you have to put it each way 1mm so it points at l1 on the cap once the helical gears done its thing, start motor, set timing.

most rotor motors the pulley holes are assemetrical or have a locating rivit.

otherwise search ausrotary about finding where you are relitive to the pulley keyway.

also search about what the marks mean, there not what you think, from memory mazgal covers it well.

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Yuh in retrospect i'll jsut check how the pulley sits on one of my other motors and do as you guys said. many thanks.

Also, ideal oil weight? bridgeport with a few kms on it.

I run the old Castrol GTX2 (Now GTX Protec??) in my old J-port (15w40)

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If you still have your oil metering injector thingee, don't run full synth.

Back when I had a rotang, (Waaaay back in the day) I pulled the pulleys off to paint them. Threw them back on, and had all sorts of problems with it. When I got a pro to take a look, he said that I's put the pulley back on in the wrong place, and the timing marks were miles away. (Among the other things I'd fucked up and done wrong)Trap for young players.

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