Jump to content

drilling spot welds


Testament

Recommended Posts

I've got to replace some bits of the sills on the 131, and need to drill out a few spot welds to replace part of the lower section, has anyone used those spot weld drills or not? any general tips? I figing a good centrepunch on the middle of the spot weld and have a go with a regular drill first unless those spot weld drills with the point in the middle and flat in the rest are that much better?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yo, my technique is, sand off the paint so you can see exactly where the spot weld is, centre punch it, then pilot it with a 3mm drill (doesnt matter too much if you go right through, though its best not to). I sharpened a normal 8mm drill like the picture above, then drill evenly as common sense would dictate until you get the puff of rusty dust which indicates you're through.

you can also get a drill called a zipcut, never used one, but they look pretty nifty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Repco didnt even know what I was talking bout when I got mine.

I paid $25 in the end from an engineering type shop. Tool shed prob has them, hit up Alister on here.

Also just buy one, making one would be gay, they have a tiny tip at the end which your couldnt make very easily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest vvega

any drill with a non standered sharpening is called a jobber

some people also call the spotface drill or counterbores

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The trick to using a spot weld bit is not to go through the 'parent' material. There will usually be a puff of rust and a change in tone when you have gone far enough.

Things get a bit more tricky when steel dashboards are invloved as there can be three layers of different thickness steel spot welded to gether and the layer you can't get at is the thinnest one :badgrin:

A cold chisel will come in handy too.

Plug welds FTW

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest vvega

yeah drilling right though and turning your car into swiss cheese turns a ezy job into something that is just shit to fix repair or work with

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you do go right through with the drill, hold/clamp a bit of clean flat copper over the hole and weld it all up, also i find a heavy duty paint scraper better than a cold chisel for breaking free the panels, doesnt munt them up as much.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you do go right through with the drill, hold/clamp a bit of clean flat copper over the hole and weld it all up, also i find a heavy duty paint scraper better than a cold chisel for breaking free the panels, doesnt munt them up as much.

Fuck yea, had to do that heaps in the ute. I just got a bit of copper pipe and beat it flat then held it up with pliers and it worked mint. for bigger stuff I used an old dolly that was lying around. Makes it so much easier for amatures to mig thin panels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
×
×
  • Create New...