Spencer Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Yea my reply wasnt to you, you just beat me to it. Just was pointing out its harly a good comparison as the F1 'plank' has a completely different use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Hmmm i might have to look into using plywood... Think it would be any good for a tarmac rally/targa car vs track? It would still be useful but you'd need a bash guard as well. Not many rally cars bother with splitters, but they all have some sort of bash protection that does a similar job for smoothing the airflow underneath. We're moving different speeds on a smoother track as well, so I'd say the advantages are limited on a tarmac car... But for the cost of a sheet of 4mm ply, it's worth a go! Lower is always better by the seems too. There's a guy who runs a 4AGTE AE86 down here who had a low lip with no undertray and said that when he changed to the TRD style which sat higher, his bonnet started flapping around at high speed. So he slammed the car more and won in every way . Really keen to see how the new set up turns out. Decided yet whether you are going to take some meat off the head? Other than that, are you planning to change much internally? Ended up leaving everything stock for starters. We'll get it going like this and will look into doing cams and compression later (if at all). The internals are all standard but have been balanced, so I'm hoping it will all work well. The crank came up mint and all bearings surfaces were perfect + standard size, so it seems good so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Yea adding some more lip to the bumper will help as you create a larger stagnation zone at the front of the car which will add downforce. The theory behind the splitter being elongated back under the engine bay is to help crate a flat plane to the underbody and is usally coupled with a deffuser, but this is only going to work if the car is fairly low to the ground to create a low pressure area, Bernoulli principle etc. I dont know how slammed your car is, but most splitters to be real effective will be 20-30mm from the ground at a guess SO yea what Markuu said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtdvl Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 I'm running sump guard, but it's not really designed for undercar aero, more so being a skidplate to protect the sump. I need to retain some compressive travel in the shocks so slamming isn't really an option. Spencer in some corners i get this low: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Yea so as I said the front splitter will help allot in creating that stagnation zone in the front, but your car is way to high for any ground effects to come into play. I'd say allot of track cars are too high for this aswell, its all pretty hit and miss at amatuer levels anyway just fun shit to experiment with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 It also makes your radiator work a bunch better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingsfree Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Splitter isnt going to help much when your car is setup for tarmac rally? it wont work unless the splitter is slammed close to the pavement, I imagine on NZ roads you would loose a splitter in about 2minThe wood on F1 cars has nothing to do with aero! its a skid block to make sure the cars arent to slammed Lol sorry I should have worded that better. I realise the F1 cars arent actually using ply, nor that it is for aero. The point was more that they are still using wood. Even if it is high tech wood. Tarmac rally obviously it would need to be higher than on the track, but its still better than nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 I would have thought it would be extra important to have a completely flat bottom on rally cars... since they're flying through the air half the time, they need a good aerodynamic surface? As well as protection from rocks etc I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingsfree Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Fuck this build makes me happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Pretty sweet fab stuff work. iheartfabrication Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Cheers guys, it's coming along well . I might need to extend the notch in the firewall to fit my filter or have space for a decent plenium - i'd originally planned to use 70mm trumpets but the 110's make much more sense (and look sassy too). As of today the driveshaft is in, manifold is bolted tight, quads secure, injectors and fuel rail are in and the clutch works! The list is still quite long, but should get much shorter in the near future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick_m Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Id have thought 70mm ones would be sweet? whats the distance from trumpet to valve, what you revving too and whats the average length of your exhaust primaries? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 With the 110mm trumpets the inlet length to valve is around 380mm which is the theoretical ideal according to Glen (Celica_RA45). I'll be revving to 8500 max but will normally be changing gears at 8000 - depending on the dyno figures of course. We'll run it up with both types of trumpet and we'll weigh up the benefits at the time. I have a feeling that the long trumpets will yield good gains, but we'll figure that out on the dyno. The extractors are very similar to the today design - I can't remember lengths off the top of my head, but all of the Today type engines seem to have long inlet runners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Yea the 110's will be the best bet, try run a decent plenum also if you can dude basically a easy couple hp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QCADTA Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 wow wee that looks sexy. is that trumpet length specific to engine displacement or just to your engine needs? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Specific to RPM range that you want them to work at. Below a certain total length, the effective RPM range is higher than your rev limit. The longer you can get them the better, basically. With that setup, the runner length is in between the runner length of the two different style beams manfolds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Fuck yes!!! :D Any chance of this doorting at nats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 Maybe... Will likely break something else if I make it, but am extremely keen to shake it down in Taupo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick_m Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 god i hope so. Would very much like too see it in the reals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chees- Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 haha nice dash, sounds fab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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