mk2_escort Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 im at the stage where i am wanting to maodify the brake boost on my mk2 escort so i can run side drafts etc. iv heard of people running remote boosters in line, and also re mounting existing booster lower. im not that knowledgeable in this area and its pretty much the last thing left on the to-do list before i paint the engine bay and new engine goes in. can anyone please provide me with some good advice in this area? that would be mint. cheers, cam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 Remove bonet Undo bolts holding booster to enginebay wall Jump on booster/bend down Drill new holes Put new bolts in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 If you don't mind having a heavier pedal just mount the master on the firewall and ditch the booster all together. /i can sell you a mint remote booster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 If you don't mind having a heavier pedal just mount the master on the firewall and ditch the booster all together. I'm going to do this on my car soon. I disconnected the vacuum pipe to it so its not vacuum assisting at all and the pedal still feels pretty light, not a problem at all. On a sub 1000kg car I don't think you need a booster unless you have gigantasaur oversized brakes or are literally a nana with like saggy boobs and 37 grand children. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 Im running no booster in the cortina with 4pots up front. Its not heavy at all. Seems easy to lock up, dont know if thats good or bad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 im at the stage where i am wanting to maodify the brake boost on my mk2 escort so i can run side drafts etc. iv heard of people running remote boosters in line, and also re mounting existing booster lower. im not that knowledgeable in this area and its pretty much the last thing left on the to-do list before i paint the engine bay and new engine goes in. can anyone please provide me with some good advice in this area? that would be mint. cheers, cam A remote booster (like a VH40) can go anywhere. I have seen them (a pair of them in this case) mounted on the rear seat firewall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2_escort Posted March 3, 2008 Author Share Posted March 3, 2008 If you don't mind having a heavier pedal just mount the master on the firewall and ditch the booster all together./i can sell you a mint remote booster ditching the booster doesnt sound like a bad idea, but not knowing how exactly its going to be like, i dont know if i want to risk it. remote boosters sound like a better idea, but me not knowing exactly how they work makes it difficult to justify. can anyone point me in the direction of some education about this? what is the remote booster out of? and where would i mount it? and how do i go about doing this, is what i want to know. on the side, someone tried to explain to me that you only need 1 booster if it is run in-line which from what i understand is most common. other wise you need 1 for each side? does this sound right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 vh40's and vh44's came out in the likes of minis and hillman hunters, they are single circuit. so if you want to boost both front and rear brakes you'll need 2 of them. I've heard you can get away with running just one to boost the front if you fit larger slave cylinders into the drums at the back, though i havent done it, it'd be a good point to start researching to confirm. safe r brakes in chch sell vh44's for $500 each brand spankers. I'm having similar problems with my car, still havent sorted out what to do as my engine takes up the space where the brake booster once was, i reckon a booster is needed on a road car, especially if your running big calipers otherwise the brakes wouldnt modulate very well. hope that helps/ raises more discussion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2_escort Posted March 4, 2008 Author Share Posted March 4, 2008 yea i was talking to my mate at work and he said that they dont run boosters at all in their stock cars and he thinks that it shouldnt be too bad to do it in my car. im running standard callipers but ferodo formula 2000 semi - race pads which think will bite pretty hard (at the cost of wearing out quickly) so with that in mind, running no booster could be do-able. what does anyone think about this? if i boost the brakes, will most likely do just the fronts, and later on possibly fit up a hydrolic handbrake for the rear. crazy rich, whats the story with your car?/what is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike-e Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 theres also tricky dicky ways around it with running a larger ID brake master cylinder, my fluid dynamics is crap at the best of times but from my limited understanding this gives you more torque applied to your discs/whatever but less travel. my ke20 has a mitsi canter master cylinder of all things vvega could explain better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 Larger ID m/cyl = less travel, more effort (required by foot); smaller ID = less effort, more travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 I went and talked to the cert guy yesterday, and hes all good with me making up some linkages to run the booster and cylinder under the dash, like this but he did say that hiace vans are like this from factory though you probably dont wanna go to such hassle with your car, there really isnt much occupying the space above the accel pedal once the ducting for the vent is removed, so i think theres room, in a capri anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eskynut Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 I take it it's a xflow motor? Why not use the 1300 manifold. It's angles upward slightly so it clears the booster. Palmside in chch has them in stock. Thats what they recommended for my Esky. Much easier than mucking around with the booster! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 I take it it's a xflow motor?Why not use the 1300 manifold. Would that manifold allow him to run sidedrafts? I don't know my esky stz but surely you mean just a standard one. If you disconnect the brake booster vacuum that will show you what its like with no booster 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Really its not that diff to run the booster and the carbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 i could make you a nice reverse mount adjustable pedal box like what palmside sell. solve space and ballance probs in one hit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2_escort Posted March 5, 2008 Author Share Posted March 5, 2008 i could make you a nice reverse mount adjustable pedal box like what palmside sell. solve space and ballance probs in one hit. how much? pm me if you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2_escort Posted March 5, 2008 Author Share Posted March 5, 2008 I take it it's a xflow motor?Why not use the 1300 manifold. Would that manifold allow him to run sidedrafts? I don't know my esky stz but surely you mean just a standard one. If you disconnect the brake booster vacuum that will show you what its like with no booster im thinking along the same lines as you, allthough funnily enough i talked to a guy that did this except he didnt know much about it so couldnt get many answers. this could be the way to go though. pedal box would be nice also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 One of my mates had an Escort rally car years ago. It didn't even need a booster. It started off as an 1100 with drums all round, he got front discs from a 1300 from memory. No booster needed, raced it like that no probs. That was with a hotted up 2 litre fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eskynut Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 I take it it's a xflow motor?Why not use the 1300 manifold. Would that manifold allow him to run sidedrafts? I don't know my esky stz but surely you mean just a standard one. Nah. A manifold that suits twin sidies. that way you can still run booster. Only need to delete booster if you put big cam in engine( cause it won't produce enough vacuum for the booster). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.