mk2_escort

Hi all, iv just picked up a Sierra 2.0 dohc 8v motor to go in my escort and am having trouble finding info on the net about it. found the basic stuff but i want to know what the difference is between the block on this motor, than the sohc pinto motor? From what i can tell they are different. also any other info at all will be much appreciated, cheers

Im looking at fitting up a large alloy radiator in the escort now, as im running a pretty hot motor and the car will be used on the track. max dimentions are 650x420 so it is far bigger then the standard size. the one im bidding on is 70mm thick so what il be doing is removing the waterpump driven fan and use electric fans. what i need advice about is about cutting the metal box shoud so i can mount the radiator foward more to give more room for the fans. most of you will know what im on about, its nothing structural. just wondaring about the legal issues etc and what the cert guy will think. cheers

heres a 3 step guide to improve you're brakes and keep them standard. 1 - get you're rotors machined/re-faced. $25 2 - buy a calliper seal kit from repco (or otherwise, cheap as chips) and take the callipers apart. its all fairly straight foward, the most common problem with escort callipers is 1 of the pistons almost seizing up. you need compressed air to blow the pistons out each side. then just take out the old seals and chuck in the new ones. $60 (ish) 3 - some new brake pads. $$ after this you will need to bleed the brakes and new brake fluid. you should be able to do it all for under $150 and you will have nice fresh brakes that you can have peice of mind are working properly and effectively. also take the rear drums apart and clean them out and check everything etc. mint.

yea i plan to do the capri ventilated disks and spacers on the callipers shortly after my car gets on the road. and im also looking at doing a hilux lsd rear end conversion. mates dad said hed do it all and shorten it for couple hundy + price of diff which will be a couple of hundy he recon. (stock car guys, seem to know everyone and can get their hands on anything)

you cant just use levers to strip a tyre. first you have to pop both beads off which you will find very difficult. just rock up to somewhere and say to them "can you guys strip these for a box of beers?". will also depend on how busy they are as they wont make time to do a free job if they could be making money instead. trust these words.

http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.com/ ... rt-14.html

I thought J port and Monster port were two different types of port. monster being larger than j port. Txt my mate, he said you want NA rotors so you dont have low compression. low compression = bad

thats no good lee, you realy need to sort out your cooling lol. ditch the one on it now and go twin electric. that thing was strugling hard on art deco weekend! good luck

yes you do lol. (anyways, on the street, I've never really noticed that much of a handling difference between a 2L and a xflow in an escort.. both of them handle like an old escort) hah. but seriously, when driving in anger, power isnt a priority. iv seen stock standard BOS cars go faster around our HBCC track than datson and corolla rwd rally cars etc etc. thats probably a - getting the power down issue, though...

^ yep, but it all comes down to ones own preference also. thought it might be worth mentioning that a guy i know here in the bay used to rally a escort with a 2l and got plenty of power out of it. but hes now building a new one and going back to a xflow simply because he didnt like the extra weight in the front. at the end of the day, you dont go fast having loads of grunt, handling comes first imo

interesting thoughts and ideas. probably the main idea why i sticked with a Xflow in my escort is because as above mentioned, keeps the weight in the front to a minimum, which in turn keeps the handling characteristics as best as posible. although no doubt a 4age is probably lighter then an all cast iron xflow but not sure. for all the trouble you could go to doing a conversion, you could be building a fun little xflow, and iv got a few bits and peices to get you started that i want to get rid of, il let go cheap as.

no im not doing hydrolic clutch. and i wont say how much he is doing it for me, you will have to ask him that. cheaper then palmside for sure.

just so you all know, eke zetec here (havent got your name yet lol) is going to be building me a pedal box, so it will solve about 3 problems in one! 1 - wont have to re-kit current booster or fiddle around with that. 2 - will be able to run sidedrafts with no troubles about room and clearance 3- can run a wide alloy radiator because the booster and resoviour wont restrict width as much. im happy. zetec, iv got a kind of busy weekend ahead, going to a hillclimb tomorrow, so i will probly take out pedals etc after work on monday and get it to the courior when he comes in to work on tuesday. cheers

get this ...no fuckign around..just get this buy the time you have spent ages fucking around and spent moonbeans getting teh bits to make it work you could have just got this and been done with it sometimes its just a matter of payign teh money totally agree

i think thats a bit different. getting the brakes to lock up on gravel takes half the effort as it does on tarmac. if not less. im very interested in the pedal box route, as it makes sence as it fits the purpose for what the car is being built as used for. im not affraid of spending money in the right areas to save mucking around in the future. however this has applied quite often so far through the build and its starting to realy add up. but at the same time the car is definitely starting to come together thats for sure!

Would that manifold allow him to run sidedrafts? I don't know my esky stz but surely you mean just a standard one. If you disconnect the brake booster vacuum that will show you what its like with no booster im thinking along the same lines as you, allthough funnily enough i talked to a guy that did this except he didnt know much about it so couldnt get many answers. this could be the way to go though. pedal box would be nice also.

how much? pm me if you want

yea i was talking to my mate at work and he said that they dont run boosters at all in their stock cars and he thinks that it shouldnt be too bad to do it in my car. im running standard callipers but ferodo formula 2000 semi - race pads which think will bite pretty hard (at the cost of wearing out quickly) so with that in mind, running no booster could be do-able. what does anyone think about this? if i boost the brakes, will most likely do just the fronts, and later on possibly fit up a hydrolic handbrake for the rear. crazy rich, whats the story with your car?/what is it?

hey mate i might have exactly what you are after. iv got a 1600 and 1300 engine both in peices in my workshop at the moment not doing anything. 1600 is a 711m block and is a standard engine and looks in good nik. the 1300 engine was said to be putting out 100hp at the wheels and was in a rally car, but i have no proof and dont know if i believe that myself. anyway. it has been bored out 30 or 60 thou, i cant remember, i think it was 30, and has 1300 flat top pistons. also, 1300 head is ported. and on top of that i have a BCF2 camshaft for it. itl all need a clean etc before being rebuilt and put back together and would make a mean little engine for the street. and if you like the lumpy idle, im sure the cam would do that as i have one in my new engine and sounds awesome. pm me if you are keen on anything man or send us a txt 0273380713

ditching the booster doesnt sound like a bad idea, but not knowing how exactly its going to be like, i dont know if i want to risk it. remote boosters sound like a better idea, but me not knowing exactly how they work makes it difficult to justify. can anyone point me in the direction of some education about this? what is the remote booster out of? and where would i mount it? and how do i go about doing this, is what i want to know. on the side, someone tried to explain to me that you only need 1 booster if it is run in-line which from what i understand is most common. other wise you need 1 for each side? does this sound right?

im at the stage where i am wanting to maodify the brake boost on my mk2 escort so i can run side drafts etc. iv heard of people running remote boosters in line, and also re mounting existing booster lower. im not that knowledgeable in this area and its pretty much the last thing left on the to-do list before i paint the engine bay and new engine goes in. can anyone please provide me with some good advice in this area? that would be mint. cheers, cam

nankang ns1's are old, ns2's are the new ones. they are good bang for your buck tyres

the eagle f1's were on a rb25det skyline, a mate of mines, and it seemed to loose traction very easily but maybe it was just because it had a big turbo and plenty of grunt.... thats the only reason why i thought they werent that great in the wet. thats also comparing to the adrenalins that i regularly drive on and there isnt much better on the market but are more expensive

i can tell you that direzza dz101's are better then sp sports. another good tyre is the bridgestone MY01, not quite as good as the direzzas but cheaper. other good tyres are eagle F1's but are crap in the wet

before my mk2 got stolen, i had jamex fixed buckets in it. to mount the seats i used 2 metal plates (each seat) to adapt to the width of the bolt holes of the seat and the rail width. also had to take apart the rail and drill holes to adapt to the different distance (front to back) of the holes on the seat and the rail. so i used 2 metal plates for each seat. i used 5mm steel to keep people doing warrants happy but 3mm would be fine, and about 50mm wide. and they both ran the width of the new seat holes, with the width of the rails being narrow-er. it cost me about $15 for the steel plates all cut up to the lengths that i wanted. took an hour or 2 to do it all. i hope thats not too hard to understand.