peteretep Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 I just put new pads and disks on the galant, I drove around for about 1.5km driving up to 60 then braking relatively hard to 5-10. My front right disk is making quite a noise, its rubbing the disk and pad I assume, and when I got home it seemed quite alot hotter than the left side, any reason for this? I mean where can you go wrong, theres only 2 bolts, 2 pads and a disk! I also replaced the front right ball joint at the same time, I doubt that would have anything to do with it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 caliper dragging fo' sho' that bedding in method sounds alright to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted February 22, 2007 Author Share Posted February 22, 2007 so anything I can do about it or will it be alright? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 what happens when you rotate it by hand with the wheel off and the wheelnuts done up to keep the disc in place. unrelated was there not some steel shims on the old pads. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted February 22, 2007 Author Share Posted February 22, 2007 havent tried it with just wheel nuts on there, shall do tomorrow nah there was no shims, was surprised Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Merc did that, it was a spring in the caliper that had gotten sticky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo.capri Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 that bedding in method sounds alright to me. I do what the pad maker says... Different methods from different makers: http://www.tirerack.com/brakestechpage-1/85.shtml AKEBONO 400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period. ATE 400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period. BREMBO Gran Turismo In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times. HAWK After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete. NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at The Tire Rack for racing application information. KAZERA Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles. POWER SLOT Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles. SATISFIED For Gransport GS6 Carbon Ceramic Pads — Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down. Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface. During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period. Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles. For all other Satisfied pads — 400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 ive had this problem 3 times, each time it was different: first time, the brand new rotor was warped by about 0.1 of a mil, each time you pushed the brakes, one wheel would rattle like fuck. turns out the person that replaced the rotor did the wheel nuts up in the wrong sequence and bent it then 2nd time, the old brake pads had worn out too far, and therefore the caliper had come out more than usual, it had begin to rust and when i pushed it back in it was tight, then when the pedal got pushed down the cylinder went out again and stayed out.... 3rd time, replaced only pads, and the one of the rotors had heated up and warped (easy for people to do with an auto), obviously this isnt the case cos you've got new rotors... also, check there isnt anything between the rotor and mounting face, hit that shit with some brake cleaner and emery paper.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 I use the method pretty much outlined in nismo's post under the Brembo heading. Has always worked, I also find harder pads tend to be better to bed in rotors, I've had soft pads just glaze up the rotors from new in past cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 how much did they cost mang?Are they vented ones.Pretty sure they are the same as my colt ones witch im wanting to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 Mmm,i want shiny rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted February 23, 2007 Author Share Posted February 23, 2007 how much did they cost mang?Are they vented ones.Pretty sure they are the same as my colt ones witch im wanting to replace. they cost $125 for disks and pads, got them at staff price I think? and they are vented Driving up to 60 then braking moderately hard is how ive seen several cars done, and the thing I worry about with driving it around for 1000km is that I wouldnt want the pad to glaze over or cause warping due to the constant heat I'll take the wheels back off and give it a looking over now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 how much did they cost mang?Are they vented ones.Pretty sure they are the same as my colt ones witch im wanting to replace. $106 for the pair, they are 265mm by 24mm I think - DBA221 is the part number. Same rotors for FWD Sigma 84-88, 83-88 Chariot and the pre-facelift Galants 87 til late 89. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted February 23, 2007 Author Share Posted February 23, 2007 I took the caliper off again, pushed in the piston, everything else seemed ok. took it for a drive and it still scraps, but at this point it doesnt stop the car from rolling down even a slight slope, no hesitation at all or anything. So maybe I'll just drive around on it for a while, I need to go back to the wof guy about my balljoint so I'll see if he says anything about the brakes when I go there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 itll just be bedding in itll have a while to wear those machine marks off or you could try giving it a light sand , is there anything on the backside to stop the squeling *the shim people may have been talkin about* , or a rubber like coat? , i usually put a SMALL amount os antisieze grease on the backside, other people might have better ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 the shim at the back would never have a wear indicatoron it, only the pads have them... the shim things arent essential, its just known to be good pratice to put them back on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted February 23, 2007 Author Share Posted February 23, 2007 it never had the shims on it, so none to put back on, I didnt put any grease on it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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