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  1. Well, I have had a build thread going on Ausrotary forum for many years, due to the snails pace rebuild of this old Mazda, Thought I would be better off copying over a condensed version here as the car is in NZ after all. The plate DABUZZ was originally on a 1974 Mazda RX4 coupe, that was fairly well known in the early-mid 2000s around the Auckland rotor scene, had that for 11 years, and sold it to buy a house (no Regrets) Was a factory 13b car (only 12a cars were ever sold new in NZ) private import from Aus, which was repainted when I got it, and had a mild stage 2 13b in it Over the years it grew to a Microtech Injected 4/71 Supercharged s5 Rx7 13b, s5 gearbox, and plenty of other mods. Took home a few trophy’s at the 4&Rotary nationals, and was just a general fun street car, wasn’t big in power, but got along OK, and sounded incredible.
  2. Well the 808 made way to make way for this...... By a chance conversation at Chrome 2020 I found out about this car, 1973 Mazda RX3 Coupe. Complete car minus a motor, Cars been baremetalled, rust done and most of the prep for paint has been done which is awesome. Came with a heap of extra parts and upgrade parts including -S5 RX7 gearbox -B2000 LSD diff thats been narrowed, with RX8 Rear calipers/rotors -Front coilovers -Factory suspension and diff as well -Lots of new bushes, rack ends, lights, badges etc etc Cars been real well done this far in and perfect base to build how it want and do it once and do it properly. Tell me im crazy and iv got a big job ahead of me here haha
  3. Stoked for you brother. Hopefully it flies through compliance when it gets here!
  4. I think its been 4 years or more since last posting on here and now its time to get back in to it. So I found this rust bucket cheap and thought Id buy it and see if it was worth having or if it was going to be parts for my wagon. Here is the two sitting together, that sedan was made from bog but it was complete, running and some how legal. It had a bodged up turbo set up with a front mount intercooler on a non turbo B6 DOHC engine but this and the wheels seemed to be the only things not factory about it, from the history I have heard these items appear to have all come from a yellow BFMR 'TEGZ", A 2000s show car. First job, swap the 17s with the factory steels I used to have on the wagon, find the guys stripped the hex off the nut...... lots of swear words and a new 13mm drill and a spare hub from the shed, I didn't have tyre rub anymore. Next was my 4 cylinder turning 3 cylinder. Lucky I am an absolute hoarder of parts and had a complete non turbo B6D motor box and loom sitting there. Stuck this in, only took an afternoon to swap it all and had it running. Drove it a few times, about 500ish Km and the bottom of the drivers door fell off, into the garage again... where its mainly been sitting for coming up 2 year. So started chipping off paint every where to see what was and was not metal. So off come all 4 doors, Bonnet, Boot lid. all full of rust. I had a full pre-facelift turbo front so the went on. Found a 1986 ford laser ghia sedan at zebra so all four doors came off that, then a trip to whangarei to get a boot lid, swapped all the electrics, trims and glass over as its all different, NZ production laser vs Japanese production familia. Now the fun job of getting a couple of hole in the boot floor welded up. Now just waiting to get it painted. Zebra had a 1991 Ford Capri XR2 Turbo, very rare car but could not save it unfortunately, but it gave me a full turbo engine and loom that was stock and 90% the same as the BFMP. So this got taken out in the morning and then swapped in the car by the afternoon. Adapted the capri engine loom and ecu to the familia body enough to have it running. Found the engine had been over heated and the head was slightly warped even though it was advertised as "running engine swap". once again lucky I had a complete spare off another engine I own that as a cracked crank. So this went on. I now have a completely stock running and driving BFMP with almost no rust. Since then I have just been slowly perfecting items. Finding oe intercooler mounts, factory mazda FC/BF momo wheel, Digital Turbo instrument cluster, also been finding and restoring period audio gear for it too! Found these brilliant Alpine 6420 Speakers for the parcel tray 7kg each!, found my 80s pioneer amp to drive them and an 80s nakamichi cassette head unit and modern alpine 4inch components hidden in the front. Now just planning how to convert the v belt on the alternator to a multi groove so I can up grade the size of the alternator on it. Ive spent a lot of time mating the capri engine loom to the body/dash loom as there was a few issues that were throwing me off the actual issues. After replacing a few sensors and things and triple checking what Ive done its perfectly mated up. Loads more to come and the whole story of the wagons too.
  5. So, because I felt like Gav (@~Slideways~) was hoggin all the "buy a really beat old Eunos Roadster" glory and because there's such a large font of knowledge for the little beaters on here, I figured I would add mine to the mix. I ended up swapping my (once @Toddy415's old AE82 FXGT) for this one that a mate had sitting in his back yard. There was a yarn about why it had been sitting for so long but I can't remember exactly what it was, however, I had had my fun with the AE82 and the future held more rust repairs than I was willing to undertake. I have plenty of other rotten cars inside instead of ones that have to sit outside. This was a car my mate had bought for his wife, she was not interested at all in it but when I asked how much they wanted for it, a deal was eventually struck as a straight swap. It hadn't had a warrant or reg in 3 years but was on hold, the roof was fucked and so even though it was stored under cover (but still outside) the interior had been dismantled and removed to stop it potentially getting filled with damp/water. It had some previous repairs done on it before it was parked up but they weren't painted over so potentially turned into a bit of a waste of time however I wasn't after pretty, just something I could use and have a laugh with. So this is what I got... As you can see, covered in terrible stickers with a metal "M" Mazda badge on the nose. Gross. Indeed I ripped the badge off before it even left my mate's house and left it on his property instead of mine. First thing done was to swap over the wheels from the Corolla; Second thing to do was remove the stickers and make a bit of an effort to put some paint on the repairs, I wasn't too fussy as I just needed something on there, however it's got pearlescent paint on it and the colour code paint doesn't match that. :/ Then I managed to find a soft-top locally fro $200 that only had a minor tear on one side which meant I wouldn't have to put a piece of plastic over it.. ..and I threw some heat into the front bumper to remove the dent, a bit more shitty colour match spray paint with a bit of tweaking then some black shitty paint on the lip The astute will notice a change in plates. The previous front one had been modded and bent to "suit" the bumper. So i got replacements then took it for a warrant which it passed without any faults. Score. However, taking it to get the warrant was the first time I'd actually driven it and the clutch is fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuucked. So I ordered a replacement clutch, flywheel, brake discs and a bunch of service part consumables from RockAuto some of which have arrived and others I'm still waiting. Hopefully some time in the next few weeks I'll have it sorted mechanically and then I'll start on the aesthetics. I'd like a hardtop, a little bit lower, Garage Vary lip and rear panel, largeish ducktail rear spoiler and roof spoiler for the hardtop. Would also like ITBs and a bunch of shit but for the time being a pod filter will do for some more loud with nothing to show for it induction noise. It already sound OK-ish when giving it some jandal but some good headers would be cool too.
  6. So time to strip down our B1600 gen1 mazda rotary ute, and build her up to her former glory. We will be working on this build as a family, good to get the kids involved. First things first we have removed the tray and are getting stuck in removing all the bog and rust. Let the fun begin. Would be great to add photos but the files always seem to be too big.
  7. I've wanted an RX7 since I was about 11 years old. I think the first FD I ever saw was a bright red one parked in a driveway, while I was walking to school. I had no idea what it was, but its beauty stuck in my mind. One of my classmates was a big car fan, due to his father running a workshop, focused on rotaries, and had an RX2 rally car, and a HB Cosmo, and an RX7 dirt track car...! So my friends influence really set me on the path to RX7 obsession. 20 years later and I have bought an FD. I've daydreamed about it for a few years as my savings grew bigger. Since 2016 I've been looking seriously, having inspected 5 cars for sale. Then this one turned up. 1994 Type R with 45,000 genuine, verified kilometres. It was imported last year by an old guy who is an old-school rotary fan and serial car collector. big photo album: https://goo.gl/photos/1KavduxG5q638suD7 The current mod list is short, and were all from Japan. - Fujitsubo 3" cat-back exhaust, which sounds perfect to me. Quiet at cruise and idle, no droning, and a good sporty tone when pushing. - 17" x 8.5" / 9" Racing Beat RB-02 wheels. Allegedly made by Work Wheels, they are a nice 3 piece set. I have to measure the offset as the labels have worn off, and the centre caps are missing. - Apexi RevSpeedMeter mk1. This nifty but useless device shows a digital readout of revs and speed. It can estimate acceleration times and flash speed and rev warnings. I need to investigate if the ECU is standard. The sills have "Blitz Access Super Computer" stickers, which was apparently a plug-in ECU upgrade from the '90s. My current modification plans for the car, after tonnes of research: water temperature and boost gauges alarm & immobiliser - mandatory for insurance aluminium AST aluminium radiator full set of tyres (eg. RE003 245/40/17). The current ones are over 10 years old and still have the coloured streaks from when they were brand new... not safe! auxiliary injection (e.g. AEM water injection) General maintenance comes first of course. Then, just drive it. I love track days so I'll be getting into those as soon as I can. I don't have any desire for more power, as I drive quite sedately on the street. The car is only a weekend ride so it always feels special to use.
  8. Hay all! My blower motor in Mazda doesn't work, so I start hunting down what could be. Found some different threats about Blower motor resistor and so on, but still couldn't fix the problem. I took out Blower motor, connect to 12 V and works fine. I took out blower motor resistor and have no idea if it's good or not (check pictures). I clean it a bit, but still quite rusty. I tried with instrument and it has ~0.5Ω on some pins. I thought that green stuff could be some kind of corrosion but guy at wreck shop said that is isolation? So I took instrument and start checking if there is any 12 V on connector, but nothing get's there. So when I change my switch level from 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 nothing happens and there is no 12V on any of connectors (I checked on Blower motor and resistor). But when I change to position 1 and 2, ECO light goes ON and radiator fan start working, on position 3 and 4 light go OFF and radiator fan stop working. I don't know how those things are connected? Otherwise my radiator fan work after my temperature goes above 90 (or whenever thermostat open it). So my questions are: 1. Is that Blower motor resistor looks good or should I change it? Where could I find one? Been to local wreck shops and they have same as my (old rusty), but couldn't found new one. 2. How can I test existing Blower motor resistor if it works? 3. Where should I get 12 V before goes to resistor? I saw on Mazda forum that on position 4 (full speed) that should bypass resistor and motor should work. 4. Any other solution how to get it work? No I won't change car p.s. It's Mazda Capella (626) Cargo, 1989, 2.0 diesel
  9. Not a major build. Just getting my rx2 coupe ready for Classic Trials later in the year. Discussion Thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/43873-popwills-rx-2-of-awesomeness/
  10. Hey guys n gals This is my newly completed project build-up from the last god knows how long (4-5 years maybe?!). Acquired it is a rough rolling body, with rust-chomped doors and sills. However I saw through the nastiness to the potential of getting it back on the road where it belongs. Too many get parted out when in a reasonable condition and I couldn't bring myself to strip it. The first several years it sat in storage whilst I slowly starting obtaining the parts I needed to piece it together. A buddy took it under his wing in this time to straighten out the panels and primer coat it. I had no idea what colour to go for at this stage and decided it was best to make that the last thing on the list. I obtained a stripped old skool 13b block through a connection, and got together all the required kit for a complete rebuild. The plates were a throw out so we found some good donor series 4 plates, the rx4 housings were really nice for their age so I got lucky with that. A good friend who is a hobby engine builder of great reputation did the assembly for me whilst I worked on finishing the interior and acquiring the running gear. I found a series 4, 5 speed box and had the shifter position shortened to save cutting up the gearbox tunnel. It has an Exedy 4 puk ceramic heavy duty clutch mated to a Green bros lightened 12 pound flywheel. Everything was dropped in with relative ease although mounts had to be fabricated to suit the upgraded motor and box. For certification purposes a drive shaft loop was made up and the driveshaft itself had to be cut down to suit the new gearbox placement. I decided, (being an 80's kid with a 90's rotary passion), to keep the block N/A and fed by a 48mm Weber IDA. Of course the mandatory high-rise K&N filter was to sit through the bonnet also! The Weber is fed via 3/8 stainless braided lines from a Carter pump which keeps up with the demand. The bridgeport is cooled through an aftermarket 3 core aly rad and oil cooler which do their job well even in heavy traffic or under high revs. Another buddy (Andre Antonievich Automotive -shout out!) fabricated a new exhaust to suit. We opted for Adrenalin R resonators and 7" muffler in a two to one,under the diff formation. At this stage security was the next concern as it was starting to turn heads whilst being trailored around. My auto sparky buddy wired in a 5 star arm complete with GPS tracking with is great piece of mind. It gives you the ability to disable the engine remotely and track not only location, but speed and revs. I replaced most of the interior and had to turf the original seats due to being irreparable. Recaro reclineables were fabricated to suit the existing floor rails. Most other dash and interior items were replaced also to complete the look. Carpet was also replaced as the 30+ year stuff was starting to stink a little. Once everything was wired up and engine was tuned over the Rx7 was taken to Brent at Dynopower Tauranga for a pre-run in tune on the dyno. The car was making great power at such an early stage and only minor adjustments were needed to the electronic dizzy and MSD spark set up. The car was then taken to be certified in Papamoa, and got the all clear on its second visit after some minor issues needed addressing. Back to my buddy who did the original panel work years before to complete the job.......I had decided on a subtle yet clean look, nothing too bright and bold like some of the other early rotors on the road. I found a grey tone by Lamborghini called 'Gregio Telesto'. It has a blue/grey appearance in the shade but under sunlight a gold and sky blue shimmer too. I have various sets of wheels for the Mazda but it rides best on the 15" Challengers which are normally on it. Future work includes adjustable suspension to get a more aggressive lower stance, and the possibility of a 13b turbo engine swap once Ive had enough fun with it Cheers for reading, if ya see us out and about (most likely gassing up) feel free to say hi or have a yarn, Im more than happy to talk if your planning a similar resurrection! Noomz
  11. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53229-1970-a7-luce-1800/ Awesome sauce mayte, congrats. Looking forward to seeing it look like this ASAP Or, maybe a little less done, like this: Neat!
  12. So anyways, I'm coming home. Headed to Aus in 1998, took a detour to the UK in 2003 and now it seems I'll be back where I started towards the end of the year.. Anyways - I was lucky enough to stumble across a poorly Mazda about 4 years ago. 1 not so careful owner had seen the engine give up the ghost at 19,800 miles upon where said owner lost interest and parked it up. In 1981. Roll ahead 40 years and it falls into my hands looking a bit sad as you'd expects, but otherwise very complete and unusually, for a UK car with salted roads every winter, relatively rust free. This is how she sat: I'll get up to present day over the next couple days as it's getting late here..
  13. Hey team I am wanting to swap the carb out on my Toyota 4k-u. Motor has only had small amount of work (mild cam, free flow exhaust, and full internal freshen up) I have currently got a Weber 32/36 on it and personally im not a fan, needs rejetting and some modification to the throttle linkage to make it feel nicer on the pedal and drive as it should. I thought about just rebuilding a factory aisan carb but they are crap out of the factory anyway so dont see the point. I dont want to spend huge money. I have been looking into a nikki carb off the likes of a mazda b2000 or similar (because they can be bolted onto a factory manifold with little to no modification to manifold or throttle linkage) but i cant find any info out on factory jet size or venturi size to compare to the aisan or weber carb specs. Does anyone know the specs of these nikki carbs? My google searches have found little to no relevant information Or any other suggestions to carbs that would be well suited as a small upgrade. heard datsun l18 carbs are worth looking into aswell Any information or feedback appreciated
  14. Discussion thread for - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/43713-harveys-1975-mazda-b1600-restore-wengine-swap/ Basically needing help deciding what engine to chuck in it? Also not wanting to spent my right leg on the swap, although i understand replacing diff, brakes, drivetrain, trans, engine mounts etc etc AND ENGINE.. is not going to be cheap. But so far the terms "1uzfe" and "3sge Beams" have popped up.. Thoughts anyone? Cheers
  15. Hey there guys! So here's the story, starting up a farmers market business (or two) of which are a bit of a secret for now until finished! Anywho, Got this little ute to suit the style/theme im going for - Kinda oldschool, retro ish look. And it needs to be able to chug around auckland with a good amount of weight on the tray.. Maybe 600 kilos, maybe more.. As it stands right now, it has the standard engine in there with a 4 speed column shift *cough cough* which i would like to get rid of asap! So I thought i would start here with you guys. Will post pictures etc on this thread with any progress.. Discussion thread - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/43714-harveys-1975-mazda-b1600-restore-wengine-swap-discussion/ ~ Harvey ~
  16. Hey guys heres my 1973 mazda b1600 wellside.. loving it pretty rough but the outside is going to stay that way for the farm/hick style ..my plans for it is to take the inside back to fully original and make it shibby as (mint) and for the bay keep the original engine but work it..e.g sidedrafts, cam, extractors and port&polish,. i don't wanna go with the rotary conversion as most people tend to do that. having trouble on finding info on these badass utes online so some help would be great from the oldschool crew
  17. nothing special, but i guess these are kind of getting a bit harder to find in tidy shape nowdays. Owned quite a few different BF 323's and lasers and have always made awesome reliable cheap dailys, so when i got back from overseas travelling earlier this year I was on the hunt for solid tidy daily for under $1500. This popped up on trademe and had a $1000 no reserve, that immediatly got my attention, and quickly called the contact number to have a look and test drive. Car was super tidy and drove well, so kept it on my watchlist for a week. Ended up in a bidding war with 1 other person, and ended up paying $1500 for it. Kind of got caught up in the trademe bids, so was more than what i normally would of paid, but oh well. Got it and have been happy with it. This how it looked after picking it up, nice n tidy with only a few small paint marks and trolley dents. Found some cheap dobi springs on trademe, so bought and fitted those. Then kept my eye out for some cheap rims. Didnt want anything bigger than 15's to avoid the roller skate look. And ended up finding some factory GSR alloys with brand new tyres on them, so snapped them up for a decent price. Then finally got the windows tinted. Pretty happy with how it looks, could always bit a bit lower though ... so might look into a coil or two less here n there sometime soon.
  18. discussion: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15856 well time for another b1600 build, this time a 76, alos got a b1500 ute too, so ehres the pics of so far and the wheels for it have a 2l and 5 speed floor chnge for it so thatll be going in soon, all ready fro when i get my lisence back
  19. Yup, there it is, shitty pics I know. A slight amount of progress, pretty much all panelled up. To Do: Paint- a bold "ferrari" red. Lower it- "understatement" Wheels- something oldschool with a bit of dish Motor- swayed away from the rx4 13b idea, searching out a 13b turb now. And of course all the other shite that I just dont want to think about right now. Discussion Thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/19894-delanals-929/?hl=929
  20. 1970 Mazda 1500 sedan. I found it in Brisbane approx 5 years ago and bought it back with me. Its done 67,000 miles. 3 speed auto, bench seat. Plastic still on the doors and sunvisors. Completely original except for 50mm lowering job and the fake whitewalls !
  21. well awhile ago i scored a nice tidy wee 1977 mazda b1600 so thought it was new time for a nice daily driver/project. its done a genuine 114thousand ks and not in bad nick for a old farm ute. here what it looked like when i first got it at this stage i hadnt decided what to do with the deck as i didnt want this hick looking piece of crap, so i picked up a piece of shit 1980 wellside for a hundred bucks(well the mrs paid for it anyway). thought id spray it up, and will chuck it on while i make a nice tidy flat deck or find a tidy 77 wellside for it i then picked up some new wheels for it, rims cost me 200 and tyres were 90 a corner, couldnt really complain, 195/50/15s. i think they do the job mint. was kinda semi thinking about getting white walls put on the tyres but not too sure yet, what you guys think? thats about it for now, over the next week it will be getting slammed with reset leaves in rear and 2 inch blocks, and a coil in the front, see how that comes out, wanna try and get it as level as possible sitting at 100mm. and as for the sounds, ive got a sony mp3 player running into a set of boschmann 6.5 components and a 1200 watt sony 12 under the bench seat getting fed by a 1400watt amp, sounds go mint, couldnt ask for much better Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21567-mutinys-b1600/?hl=b1600
  22. First start up http://img469.imageshack.us/img469/460/ ... fi3.th.jpg http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/6310/h ... fm1.th.jpg Been working on it about 12 months, Brought as a shell. 81 323 4dr hatch 13bt s4 standard for now. only short time trust me. bigger injectors mircotech comp external and hilux rear end 4.88 lsd 4spd corona box 9.5 x 26 x 16s hooziers Best runs to date 11.96 @ 114 mph. 11.98 @ 108 mph Bigger turbo going on next week
  23. thought id put up some pics of my car had it since 04 i think, and pulled it of the road to start work on it bought it standard as...first thing i did was lower on some 15's then on modgies and after about a year of the road 13b brigeport, s4 gearbox, panel and paint etc etc etc, just got few finishing touches (been lazy) and itl be out
  24. Might recognise this as Mutiny's before he got his 808... Must have bought this off him over 6 months ago, finally went and picked it up in the weekend. Looked fucking rat with all the lichen and moss and grime all over it, bit sad to see it go but after a good waterblast its come up way more solid than I was expecting, Theres actually very very little that isn't just surface rust. Gonna get it sandblasted back and then after I've etched and sealed it I'll get to work on the chassis. Plans are: Chassis: 4Linked rear end on adustable coilovers with a watts link shortened Hilux LSD S5 brakes on the rear and possibly the front (or VN commodore) Strenghtened chassis and cage 13bt front mounted Body: Respray in 2tone (probably 2 greys) Chrome hubcaps on front with whitewalls Bigass 15x10's or similar on rear with street legal rubber This is gonna be a long term project, no doubt about it, dont expect updates too speedily.
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