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Found 9 results

  1. Well the 808 made way to make way for this...... By a chance conversation at Chrome 2020 I found out about this car, 1973 Mazda RX3 Coupe. Complete car minus a motor, Cars been baremetalled, rust done and most of the prep for paint has been done which is awesome. Came with a heap of extra parts and upgrade parts including -S5 RX7 gearbox -B2000 LSD diff thats been narrowed, with RX8 Rear calipers/rotors -Front coilovers -Factory suspension and diff as well -Lots of new bushes, rack ends, lights, badges etc etc Cars been real well done this far in and perfect base to build how it want and do it once and do it properly. Tell me im crazy and iv got a big job ahead of me here haha
  2. So, because I felt like Gav (@~Slideways~) was hoggin all the "buy a really beat old Eunos Roadster" glory and because there's such a large font of knowledge for the little beaters on here, I figured I would add mine to the mix. I ended up swapping my (once @Toddy415's old AE82 FXGT) for this one that a mate had sitting in his back yard. There was a yarn about why it had been sitting for so long but I can't remember exactly what it was, however, I had had my fun with the AE82 and the future held more rust repairs than I was willing to undertake. I have plenty of other rotten cars inside instead of ones that have to sit outside. This was a car my mate had bought for his wife, she was not interested at all in it but when I asked how much they wanted for it, a deal was eventually struck as a straight swap. It hadn't had a warrant or reg in 3 years but was on hold, the roof was fucked and so even though it was stored under cover (but still outside) the interior had been dismantled and removed to stop it potentially getting filled with damp/water. It had some previous repairs done on it before it was parked up but they weren't painted over so potentially turned into a bit of a waste of time however I wasn't after pretty, just something I could use and have a laugh with. So this is what I got... As you can see, covered in terrible stickers with a metal "M" Mazda badge on the nose. Gross. Indeed I ripped the badge off before it even left my mate's house and left it on his property instead of mine. First thing done was to swap over the wheels from the Corolla; Second thing to do was remove the stickers and make a bit of an effort to put some paint on the repairs, I wasn't too fussy as I just needed something on there, however it's got pearlescent paint on it and the colour code paint doesn't match that. :/ Then I managed to find a soft-top locally fro $200 that only had a minor tear on one side which meant I wouldn't have to put a piece of plastic over it.. ..and I threw some heat into the front bumper to remove the dent, a bit more shitty colour match spray paint with a bit of tweaking then some black shitty paint on the lip The astute will notice a change in plates. The previous front one had been modded and bent to "suit" the bumper. So i got replacements then took it for a warrant which it passed without any faults. Score. However, taking it to get the warrant was the first time I'd actually driven it and the clutch is fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuucked. So I ordered a replacement clutch, flywheel, brake discs and a bunch of service part consumables from RockAuto some of which have arrived and others I'm still waiting. Hopefully some time in the next few weeks I'll have it sorted mechanically and then I'll start on the aesthetics. I'd like a hardtop, a little bit lower, Garage Vary lip and rear panel, largeish ducktail rear spoiler and roof spoiler for the hardtop. Would also like ITBs and a bunch of shit but for the time being a pod filter will do for some more loud with nothing to show for it induction noise. It already sound OK-ish when giving it some jandal but some good headers would be cool too.
  3. Spin some yarns in here.
  4. Well, I have had a build thread going on Ausrotary forum for many years, due to the snails pace rebuild of this old Mazda, Thought I would be better off copying over a condensed version here as the car is in NZ after all. The plate DABUZZ was originally on a 1974 Mazda RX4 coupe, that was fairly well known in the early-mid 2000s around the Auckland rotor scene, had that for 11 years, and sold it to buy a house (no Regrets) Was a factory 13b car (only 12a cars were ever sold new in NZ) private import from Aus, which was repainted when I got it, and had a mild stage 2 13b in it Over the years it grew to a Microtech Injected 4/71 Supercharged s5 Rx7 13b, s5 gearbox, and plenty of other mods. Took home a few trophy’s at the 4&Rotary nationals, and was just a general fun street car, wasn’t big in power, but got along OK, and sounded incredible.
  5. So time to strip down our B1600 gen1 mazda rotary ute, and build her up to her former glory. We will be working on this build as a family, good to get the kids involved. First things first we have removed the tray and are getting stuck in removing all the bog and rust. Let the fun begin. Would be great to add photos but the files always seem to be too big.
  6. I've wanted an RX7 since I was about 11 years old. I think the first FD I ever saw was a bright red one parked in a driveway, while I was walking to school. I had no idea what it was, but its beauty stuck in my mind. One of my classmates was a big car fan, due to his father running a workshop, focused on rotaries, and had an RX2 rally car, and a HB Cosmo, and an RX7 dirt track car...! So my friends influence really set me on the path to RX7 obsession. 20 years later and I have bought an FD. I've daydreamed about it for a few years as my savings grew bigger. Since 2016 I've been looking seriously, having inspected 5 cars for sale. Then this one turned up. 1994 Type R with 45,000 genuine, verified kilometres. It was imported last year by an old guy who is an old-school rotary fan and serial car collector. big photo album: The current mod list is short, and were all from Japan. - Fujitsubo 3" cat-back exhaust, which sounds perfect to me. Quiet at cruise and idle, no droning, and a good sporty tone when pushing. - 17" x 8.5" / 9" Racing Beat RB-02 wheels. Allegedly made by Work Wheels, they are a nice 3 piece set. I have to measure the offset as the labels have worn off, and the centre caps are missing. - Apexi RevSpeedMeter mk1. This nifty but useless device shows a digital readout of revs and speed. It can estimate acceleration times and flash speed and rev warnings. I need to investigate if the ECU is standard. The sills have "Blitz Access Super Computer" stickers, which was apparently a plug-in ECU upgrade from the '90s. My current modification plans for the car, after tonnes of research: water temperature and boost gauges alarm & immobiliser - mandatory for insurance aluminium AST aluminium radiator full set of tyres (eg. RE003 245/40/17). The current ones are over 10 years old and still have the coloured streaks from when they were brand new... not safe! auxiliary injection (e.g. AEM water injection) General maintenance comes first of course. Then, just drive it. I love track days so I'll be getting into those as soon as I can. I don't have any desire for more power, as I drive quite sedately on the street. The car is only a weekend ride so it always feels special to use.
  7. Hay all! My blower motor in Mazda doesn't work, so I start hunting down what could be. Found some different threats about Blower motor resistor and so on, but still couldn't fix the problem. I took out Blower motor, connect to 12 V and works fine. I took out blower motor resistor and have no idea if it's good or not (check pictures). I clean it a bit, but still quite rusty. I tried with instrument and it has ~0.5Ω on some pins. I thought that green stuff could be some kind of corrosion but guy at wreck shop said that is isolation? So I took instrument and start checking if there is any 12 V on connector, but nothing get's there. So when I change my switch level from 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 nothing happens and there is no 12V on any of connectors (I checked on Blower motor and resistor). But when I change to position 1 and 2, ECO light goes ON and radiator fan start working, on position 3 and 4 light go OFF and radiator fan stop working. I don't know how those things are connected? Otherwise my radiator fan work after my temperature goes above 90 (or whenever thermostat open it). So my questions are: 1. Is that Blower motor resistor looks good or should I change it? Where could I find one? Been to local wreck shops and they have same as my (old rusty), but couldn't found new one. 2. How can I test existing Blower motor resistor if it works? 3. Where should I get 12 V before goes to resistor? I saw on Mazda forum that on position 4 (full speed) that should bypass resistor and motor should work. 4. Any other solution how to get it work? No I won't change car p.s. It's Mazda Capella (626) Cargo, 1989, 2.0 diesel
  8. Hey guys n gals This is my newly completed project build-up from the last god knows how long (4-5 years maybe?!). Acquired it is a rough rolling body, with rust-chomped doors and sills. However I saw through the nastiness to the potential of getting it back on the road where it belongs. Too many get parted out when in a reasonable condition and I couldn't bring myself to strip it. The first several years it sat in storage whilst I slowly starting obtaining the parts I needed to piece it together. A buddy took it under his wing in this time to straighten out the panels and primer coat it. I had no idea what colour to go for at this stage and decided it was best to make that the last thing on the list. I obtained a stripped old skool 13b block through a connection, and got together all the required kit for a complete rebuild. The plates were a throw out so we found some good donor series 4 plates, the rx4 housings were really nice for their age so I got lucky with that. A good friend who is a hobby engine builder of great reputation did the assembly for me whilst I worked on finishing the interior and acquiring the running gear. I found a series 4, 5 speed box and had the shifter position shortened to save cutting up the gearbox tunnel. It has an Exedy 4 puk ceramic heavy duty clutch mated to a Green bros lightened 12 pound flywheel. Everything was dropped in with relative ease although mounts had to be fabricated to suit the upgraded motor and box. For certification purposes a drive shaft loop was made up and the driveshaft itself had to be cut down to suit the new gearbox placement. I decided, (being an 80's kid with a 90's rotary passion), to keep the block N/A and fed by a 48mm Weber IDA. Of course the mandatory high-rise K&N filter was to sit through the bonnet also! The Weber is fed via 3/8 stainless braided lines from a Carter pump which keeps up with the demand. The bridgeport is cooled through an aftermarket 3 core aly rad and oil cooler which do their job well even in heavy traffic or under high revs. Another buddy (Andre Antonievich Automotive -shout out!) fabricated a new exhaust to suit. We opted for Adrenalin R resonators and 7" muffler in a two to one,under the diff formation. At this stage security was the next concern as it was starting to turn heads whilst being trailored around. My auto sparky buddy wired in a 5 star arm complete with GPS tracking with is great piece of mind. It gives you the ability to disable the engine remotely and track not only location, but speed and revs. I replaced most of the interior and had to turf the original seats due to being irreparable. Recaro reclineables were fabricated to suit the existing floor rails. Most other dash and interior items were replaced also to complete the look. Carpet was also replaced as the 30+ year stuff was starting to stink a little. Once everything was wired up and engine was tuned over the Rx7 was taken to Brent at Dynopower Tauranga for a pre-run in tune on the dyno. The car was making great power at such an early stage and only minor adjustments were needed to the electronic dizzy and MSD spark set up. The car was then taken to be certified in Papamoa, and got the all clear on its second visit after some minor issues needed addressing. Back to my buddy who did the original panel work years before to complete the job.......I had decided on a subtle yet clean look, nothing too bright and bold like some of the other early rotors on the road. I found a grey tone by Lamborghini called 'Gregio Telesto'. It has a blue/grey appearance in the shade but under sunlight a gold and sky blue shimmer too. I have various sets of wheels for the Mazda but it rides best on the 15" Challengers which are normally on it. Future work includes adjustable suspension to get a more aggressive lower stance, and the possibility of a 13b turbo engine swap once Ive had enough fun with it Cheers for reading, if ya see us out and about (most likely gassing up) feel free to say hi or have a yarn, Im more than happy to talk if your planning a similar resurrection! Noomz
  9. discussion: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15856 well time for another b1600 build, this time a 76, alos got a b1500 ute too, so ehres the pics of so far and the wheels for it have a 2l and 5 speed floor chnge for it so thatll be going in soon, all ready fro when i get my lisence back