morkster

Pretty sure that's what it says on a cert plate.

My understanding of it is a non certed car must not be lower than 100mm from any structural part of the vehicle.. certed cars can be lower, but not lower than what it says on cert plate.

Floating hubs? What the? Do they go on the front or back, how do they work please?

Rotary oil coolers from say s4? onwards have a thermal pallet in the cooler (so oil bypasses until up to temp.). Heaps of info on them online if you wish to search them out. Just an idea

Loving the bugeye aye.. sweet colour!

Sounds like it might be something like the steering bearings (rotational bearings on the strut) flogged out causing the play. Just a guess I'm no expert.

Good stuff; why ruin something that amazingly, hasn't been.

This. If you are 'thinking of getting a set of standard springs and choppy chop chop' you most likely will mess with the ride quality as a shorter spring is a harder spring. Sweet car by the way.

Yes, probly ideal^.. about the right size for what you want; offering some cooling but not too much, and maybe do without thermostat/pellet too (just guessing about temp.).

Most rotary ones (you know on TradeMe) have a thermostat (bypass pellet) built in. That's what I'd go for; you can hang it under your radiator.

12a is a good idea if I may say.. Is that an NGK plug?

That video especially is the most bogan thing I've ever seen.

Mitutoyo $25 http://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/tools/hand-tools/measuring/auction-521463693.htm

Here you are: http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/stand ... ssions.pdf Motorcycle engines at 2.6(2); Page 10.

Nice job so far.

Basis sent me the wrong stuff, I wont be going back most likely.

Pink Stickered WOF and

How can I search carjam without any numbers? This is prob the best option. Gaz According to Danger some fellow at LTSA found it on their records - the chassis #/model was wrong. Thread: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=33950&hilit=rx4&start=40

Quite often this is a blocked compensating port in the master cylinder. The brake pedal needs to come back far enough for this; it's worth checking - you need some freeplay there. Otherwise like kyteler says "Just pull apart your calipers, check the condition of the seals, use a little emery paper on the bores, they might come up sweetbix without spending any money at all." I had the same problem on my old car and I have done this^ recently with 6 calipers; I was lucky with the seals, I used rust killer on the calipers and pistons to rid any corrosion. I found that the problem was most likely the pistons catching the bores between the seal and the dust seal. The 2 that were on the car are back there now and seem to be fine. I guess out of the 6, 2 are in very good condition, 2 are quite good (on the car) and 2 are average spares probly not useable.

You on Trade Me? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Community/Mess ... 00&topic=1

I love this car, my favourite pic of it: Pretty much perfect.

Has this been mentioned? http://www.georgestock.co.nz/catalogue/CAMELOT/CAMELOT.htm ?

Seems legit..

The ones on Ebay for Rx-2 are sweet.

If that was mine I would rust kill it until it was back to nice white metal. This is done by applying rust killer over and over again. This is one hundred percent possible but you need patience as it is very tedious. Then I'd take it to a good old school beater.