Llama

Well, this has been an exciting? week for me. Last Friday after arriving at work I noticed that my left hand pillion peg was missing, presumed shaken loose somewhere. Further inspection revealed that this also held the bracket that supported to the muffler, which had caused this nice crack. I figured it had probably been like that for a while, so I'd be OK getting home for the weekend to fix it. Turned out I was wrong, this happened on SH26. Sounded like a out of (or in?) tune harley all the way home. Sooooo loud. I was busy all weekend, so spend late Sunday night in a panic getting it fixed. Cue the worst welding in the world, as my auto-dimming mask decided to die, so I was using a shade 12 fixed mask... New set of mufflers is going to cost $500, so I'm looking at aftermarket and cheapo reproduction ones.

Oil thermostats sure do exist, look for inline ones. They used to fit them to race MGBs.

Where are you based? Do you have a shed/garage to work in?

You can silver solder (it's really just brazing with a different filler)* with butane if the part is small enough, it's what jewelers use. Otherwise look at oxy-propane or compressed air-propane as a slightly cheaper than OA. Not sure why you would silver braze over regular though? If you are only working with steel anyway. I prefer to weld most things as then you don't have to be so fussy about getting nice fits. *you can get electrical solder with a silver content, pretty much works like higher temp lead-free solder, but I'm presuming we are talking about silver brazing here.

Oh you. I think I'm easier than that though

I have some vouchers for deals on two burgers if someone is keen /dinner date

Ooo, I'm living out east and might actually attend for once.

Yeah, I saw that and wondered what it was. I completely forgot about it, oh well.

Connectors get pricey amazingly fast. I think there is a thread somewhere in another forum, but weather pack are good quality and should be fine for everything a bike needs. EDIT //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/40061-military-automotive-specification-automotive-wiring-harnesses/?hl=connectors that thread I think

^Yeah, those guys are pretty good.

Boooring picless update, however I've been working on a CDI module for this. Hall effect sensor acquired and working, I'm currently making a trigger wheel. Would replacing the mechanical advance help too? The advance curve on the CB starts at 3600 and ends at 7200rpm. How does one go about sizing coils? Higher resistance gives lower drain, but aside from that I have no idea what I should be looking for.

Boom. I have an exam that morning, so might be there late if at all. edit: lol'd at tags.

What does arc force even do in TIG mode? With stick, it's meant to up the current when the load voltage drops too low, helps you stop sticking among other things.

It's highly likely rebranded something else, plenty of the UK and US sites will have good reviews on them, you just have to figure out what the equivalent is you are looking at

Relays cause inductive spikes when turned off, not the headlights.

Pretty sure avgas contains super-duper amounts of lead (more than they used to in cars) that could not be a good thing.

That upholstery is amazing.

Sup, Have a summer job with F&P, so looking for somewhere to stay around there instead of spending 50% of my day travelling across the city. I will only be there four nights a week, so you won't see that much of me. I'm clean, can cook for myself, sing opera etc etc, so just after a bed, and rest assured all my projects will stay at home Will be starting mid-November until late Feb, with 3 weeks off over Christmas. Cheers Llama

Ooo, please let us know how the lights get on. I've been looking at those myself.

Jeah, will likely be thur

Yeah, depends on how the cams are set up. Setting up the pulses to match intake and exhaust opening times. If anyone is super keen on this, the book http://books.google.co.nz/books/about/The_scientific_design_of_exhaust_and_int.html?id=oIZTAAAAMAAJ&redir_esc=y has been the biz for many many years, and explains many of the principles.

EFI can be done, if you can set up your sequential injection to compensate for the siamesed ports, but it's not reaaaaly worth the effort unless you are into that kind of thing. A too large carb will give you a poor low end as the air velocity is not fast enough to give you enough difference in the pressure to draw fuel out.

What programming board/micro did you use? I'm kinda keen on a AVR dragon since it has on board debugging, although it's not as fully fledged as the STK500

Where did you get the supercharger from?

I will be there! As the CB is running and I'm skipping band.