mjrstar

so i'm not really planning on doing much more to this other than a carb upgrade, it's somly not able to get enough fuel to pull nicely past about 6500 RPM i have trimmed the needle to within an inch of it's life, but it's still asking for more fuel in the top end. my original thoughts were a pair of VTR1000 carbs on a custom manifold, bearing in mind I would like to make around 100hp at 8000rpm and the engine technically should support this with the 296 duration cam, big valves and a decent dose of compression, but remember I only have 2 inlet ports to work with.. having read a few of the bike carb threads i'm tempted to look a bit smaller in the carb department... or maybe just one from the VTR1000 which are 50mm?? Suggestions welcomed.

After hooning my brother in law's 10A PP R100, I am considering piecing together a 13B PP for giggles, in a lightweight chassis..

Keen, will try and make it

^^ agreed.. When I changed to the 3.9 ratio in the starlet/ hilux diff, I just did a backlash feel by hand (not sloppy or notchy) and it seems to do the trick. (Quieter than that the other 4.3 ratio was) maybe I was just lucky..

try this for an explanation

I have a link plus and autometer tacho in my starlet... i have tried it with it wired from the igniter output and from the ecu output, and although it does work it seems slow/lazy either way.. Pretty much gave up on paying attention to RPM's, just change up when it's feels about right..

Good stuff man - it's a nice looking conversion. May I suggest from personal experience at addition of a brake master cylinder heat-shield, and try re-routing the throttle cable away from the turbo. Possibly some better quality tubing and clamps for the likes for the fuel pressure regulator / waste-gate actuator might not go a miss either, that blue silicone hose can be a bit soft/rubbish.. Also execution of aforementioned skid is obligatory.

I'm thinking some powdercoated 13x8 steelies would do the trick nicely for this beast..

Today's recipe is: Draw. Cut. Bend Cut. Hrm.. missing a photo of second cut.. Meh.. Fold. Repeat. Slam. Pre slam photo for comparison You may have noticed that the cook/weld part of this recipe has been omitted.. good spotting as this is still on the to do list.. Will also need to figure out the plan of attack for rear springs/shocks as the low spings i had were WAY too soft to handle nicely.

Right... Yeah I do actually still own this So I'm not too sure exactly where this is heading at present, but my short term plan is to fit up the handbrake cables, tidy up the fuel system (need to ditch the fuel tank to fit the handbrake mechanism), fix up where the floor-pan has tried to pull away from the sills, make a proper battery mount, make some proper mounts for the seats etc... from there I plan on attaching the rear guards with plan to trim out the lips to allow more low.. (hopefully without burning too much paint) So the majority of this will involve welding inside the car and i have a major dislike for shit catching fire whilst i weld so it was time for the sound deadening to GTFO. Add 2kg's of dry ice, some time with a hammer /screwdriver and a wipe down with degreaser / thinners. I split the dry ice up into a few shopping bags and left it for about 20mins and it came off like a dream.. Might even do a bit of stitch / seam welding in a few places too... Just need to get my hands on a new welder.. So on the fuel system, I'm thinking single lift pump (something quieter than the holley black I have) and a single pressure pump (instead of the twin pumps I currently have) and a fuel cell (around 40 ish litres) all mounted in a steel box made to fit where the spare tyre well is currently.. Not sure if I will use my mis-matched jamex / bride seat combo, i would lave a nice comfy sparco evo or something but it's not really in line with the budget build status.. Also on the look out for some staggered 15x8 and 15x9 combo to add to toughness..

fyi I run 275lb rear springs and 400lb front springs in my starlet. it seems ok at Pukekohe but I don't really push my car to 10 10ths. how was grip over the hill onto the front straight (this is where my car was struggling to hook up) and also out of castrol onto the back straight. it's looking like and angrey beast man.. good stuff

anyone else got photos of the R100 engine bay and rear maybe?

this place is well worth a look if you are anywhere near queenstown etc.. http://www.nttmuseumwanaka.co.nz/museum ... utomobiles maybe this chch dude was attempting to copy him?

^^no. Remove dizzy cap, turn key on and use a screwdriver to open the points, there should be a spark there if you have power. then work towards the coil if no spark work back towards ignition power feed.

reminds me of a guy i know who chased a tapping noise for ages including putting new main and big eng bearings in his trans-am, to find out that he had a power steer pump making the noise. anyway, check accessories such as alternator/generator etc.. using long screwdriver as a poor mans stethoscope. Could also be a worn rocker shaft?

baking soda made into paste is the win for grout cleaning I believe...

there are a few wireless alarms out there, i run something along these lines in my shed...

Work is a few thousand k's and an international flight away from then upcoming Hammeet sadly...

damn, working.... express keen-ness for future meets if they do not clash with having to werk

I run a 1 inch camry master with hilux 4 pots and the rotor is a dr474 from memory around 275-280 mm dia. Fits under a 15 rim. Might be a pic somewhere in my starlet project thread. I used s4 rx7 rear calipers and a mixture of r32 and r30 cables

I think a 205 50 15 looks pretty decent on a 15x8 , that's what I have on the starlet albeit a semi slick. I reckon a 55 would be better suited than a 60 personally.. but it depends on the style of the sidewall a bit. EDIT: Also how about a 225 45 15?

Keen if I'm not working....

Car has had a bit of a pre-nats tidy up, including a new "S" grille for those of you who will not be attending it should be looking like this.... Also had a drama with the radiator not wanting to do the water holding thing which was mildly uncool, but it's fix up and cleaned /pressure tested now. Not ideal for a freshly cleaned engine bay...

yeah nutsert / riv nut (steel ones though not ali) or to save buying a rivnut gun just normal old nut captivated with a lick of weld...

how about a crush tube in the box section and a captive nut on the under side of a piece of u channel (or flat bar)that fits over the outside of box from the underneath.