BlownCorona

also +1 for Lewis

have you tried Rocket Bunny?

Nismo doesnt come here anymore but the man who rebuilt your engine is also one who shows up sometimes. Ill mention it to the man but hes very welcoming and has a Capri in the shed also. Also, i came here to actually say to dump that antifreeze asap, run the engine on straight water for the first runs otherwise you might get head gasket issues as the antifreeze is slippery and can work its way past fresh gaskets.

my first car was an N/A sw20. i nearly hit a lamp post and a gardener when i tried to slide it around a corner, i did hit a curb and i did snap a wheel in half. The gardener laughed at me. MR2s Teenagers are deathtraps.

I rarely use fusion now but I learnt all the ins and outs of CAD on it and it remains one of the best newbie friendly options. one of the biggest mindset hurdles was changing the creative process to 'growing' the part, where as I had been used to starting with a chunk of larger physical material and removing bits until I had the part I wanted which doesn't work so great in CAD.

i use Creo daily now, to be honest i quite like it but there are alot of grumbles in the office about it. im about 90% sure most of the stress actually comes from windchill, i was quite happy scooting along on creo untill i had to get onto a project that used windchill for management. holy fuck its horrible. using creo for me became quite a bit easier once someone mentioned to be that its roots are from a time before 'windows' was a thing, mean just because youre looking at something doesnt mean its active. this is an extremley foreign concept to more new/young engineers who are also unaware of how windows even operates beyond the search bar. for me, it was a simple mindset shift which made alot of things make sense. Creo has also made my Fusion experience quite a bit worse, nothing feels right with regards to the model tree because it used a history based approach which is fucking excellent for learning but makes zero sense when trying to do serious things. one thing that absolutely blew my mind and accelerated workflow immeasurably (but its not really a secret, im just not actually an engineer) is that you can do maths, even complex maths in dimensions window where you may be punching in a number, in fusion too. instead of having to crack out a calculator to find out what dimension the circle you want to place one third of the way offset on the 174.5mm square and breaking out the calculator you can just select the dimension and type "174.5/3" or i think fusion wants an = sign so "=174.5/3" you can also do more complex math such as "(174.5/3)+10" for 10mm offset from a third of the way across the width. Like i say, every engineer will have been taught this week one at the engineering learning place. but if your couch taught like myself it was awesome and truly sped up the way i work.

A donor is looking like the likely candidate. I actually scored my breitling from the Japan auctions. At 1/5th its value I was very pleased... ... To have spent 3 straight months of evenings searching, totaling a value in time far exceeding any brand new breitling.

looks like 5-10s lost per day. factory spec is +45/-34 so hes over the moon. but its pretty typical for companies to skimp on the regulation effort and kick movements out the door with a wide spec. i reckon i could get it better but he's happy so im happy. my old soviet watch looses nothing over the 2-3 day periods i wear it before i inevitably forget to wind it or swap to another watch. Currently struggling to find a winding stem and crown for my 60s seiko 5 that doest balloon out in price due to shipping being 5 fold of the item. the total cost to ship in the parts would exclipse the value of the watch so its a rock and a hard place. same as this one, though even that one looks like it has the wrong crown haha. ps let me know if youd rather a generic watchmaking thread vs me crashing yours

and after an afternoon of scrubbing the cladding clean, it looks nearly new! what fantastic luck.

Id love a basic staking set too, mostly for adjusting the fitting holes on hands. im not good enough to be repairing individual components! I cracked open a workmates Seiko 5 in the smoko room yesterday to adjust the regulation Much amusement to other workmates walking in for their lunch. It was gaining 60s a day and reports are that it lost nothing overnight so he's pleased thought my phone based timegrapher app was reporting awful results in the face up position vs bang on face down, albeit with a 4ms beat error so it may be due a proper service. real life results trump a free app though its surprising how many people are entirely unaware of mechanical watches.

that looks great. only thing i would do is splash a little blue on the front fender somewhere, currently it looks a little bit like a replacement universal part on an otherwise very thought out machine.

mate. its several missmatched offcuts of random timber. it could be attached to the pedal with what ever holds back clint when sees things like this and it still wouldnt be okay

what makes a 1999 safer than a 1998 Nothing, thats what. what makes a 1998 safer than a 1997 Nothing, thats what. what makes a 1997 safer than a 1996 Nothing, thats what. what makes a 1996 safer than a 1995 Nothing, thats what. what makes a 1995 safer than a 1994 ~~~~~~~~~~ What makes a 1886 safter than an 1885 no one had invented a car in 1885, thats what. Its not a stupid rule when you consider the basic logic that a line must be draw at some point, and at the time of inception 2000 was a round number that was ~15 years old, so fairly modern (brand new my most of our standards) a rolling point for the 1 year wofs would be dumb because the initial assumption was that the newer 2000+ cars were safer overall and while newer new cars may be even more safe, the original 2000+ cars are just as safe as they originally were. 3 year wofs for new cars on the other hand is a fucking disaster and i have no idea what the upside was. There could be a case for bumping cars to a 6 month inspection due to expected wear/tear/dodgy repairs but perhaps 40 years to align with classic rego and unlikely to affect the everyman, kinda echos Harrys comment above.

are you sure that a pull up resistor is correct for your sensor? it may be wanting a pull down. 5v when hall is OFF 5v when hall is ON

just a cheap parallel port card and the stepper drivers that it came with. the para port card is nothing but patching the specific output wires from the DB24 port to the stepper drivers and the limit switches, z probe and e stop but through opto isolators for safety and with the addition of a couple of controllable relays. it relays on the computer itself to generate steps which so far seems to work fine. a large table such as yours may not be so gravy

im about 90% done with setting up a full linuxcnc controller on a dedicated box. but just a cheap breakout board instead of fancy mesa cards like yours, my cutting speed and small table is forgiving enough to run happy within its limitations it seems. i just need to physically install limit switches so homing works and setup auto z probe and then actually learn how to operate the thing properly.

yeah thats a pretty solid idea, with a known offset to the real tool it would be simple enough and remain accurate for any markouts or things in conjunction with actual cutting

I want to do that but with an Er11 chuck. Maybe the inside of a gel pen??

that could end up being an utter nightmare. the wording 'exactly the same as original' depending on tolerances could mean you design several after completing the analysis, presumably youd also need to FEA the original part too to gain the benchmark. unless you happen to be an engineer that would be a non starter, i don't disagree with it at all though, i see daily how how much work those crash/crumple zones do and thats work that's not being done by your body.

zetec +t bedford

check with your insurance company if they can get a post incident valuation. ive had that in the past when i had an accidentally under insured car. i didnt even have to pay for it, though i also wasn't at fault.

i had the same problem on my car with the front disk brakes locking on. id put a master cylinder in that had residual valves on both circuits. i removed them and it made it better but the other problem was the pushrod that circlips into the master was too long inside and even full released was actually holding a bit of pressure. more of a side effect of using a Datsun master on a toyota but you may have a similar issue to check for.

dreamy, but i looked them up and found one for sale for over 5k usd?? i think i best stick to the $30 barn finds. Top of my list at at the moment is an enicar because i love the logo and i think the story behind their name is cool. their surname being Racine but another member of the family already used that for their watch brand so they just reversed it.

love the gentle evidence of age on that dial. a watch of this style is something ive always got an eye peeled for. id better fix up the old seiko sportsmatic first

the fuel pump might want a rewire of some sort or just a prime button fitted. its wired to only run when the engine is running which is good but if left to sit the fuel can evaporate in the carby and cause the hard starting. a priming push button would let you blast some fuel into the float bowl before starting. im sure there's a clever automatic solution available too if so inclined.