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BlownCorona

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Everything posted by BlownCorona

  1. oh yes i see, fuel vapour collecting due to reversion. i wonder if you could fix that with cam spec changes and/or vvti fiddling if available. going fully insane, double barrels may also fix that problem. (while also bringing several other, much worse problems). the flow increase for a barrel over a butterfly is so massive its a worthy avenue to explore. pic for others, im certain you've probably made your own charts before
  2. i also have half baked cad files for a parametric barrel throttle i started to design. its something i would like to get back to as they are super sick. project stalled as i dont have a car that wants them. is there any reason why you would be injecting fuel upstream of the throttle? i cant figure out why fuel would pool on the barrel at all?
  3. as you say, perhaps actually getting a satin dark grey might get you where you want?
  4. i also vote no flares unless the wheels were going to fill them out about 2 - 3 inchs further than that photo. It looks (in my minds eye looking to the future) so clean with just the rx nose grafted on like factory.
  5. that's not what the previous owner of my old crown thought. imagine my horror as i cruise down the central north island, Christchurch bound in a sight unseen crown that i knew had a small pulley so id i thrown a boost gauge into my carry on luggage with the thought of checking it but never did. got bored somewhere around Te Kuiti and plugged it in. 17psi so much heat it struggled to go up large hills, and when it started to rain in wellington it got substantially faster lol. thank fuck the original pully was in the boot. cool project man, I hope you figure out how to make the blower howl more, i wasn't ever able to get much
  6. wanna buy a really small SC pully? without intercooling it will make your engine slower and it also wont be able to switch the blower on and off lol.
  7. Tied with Rimfire, your boat has by far the coolest name in the field.
  8. cool wall art though, and i dont think i could afford the remaining 50k even if my dad does really want one
  9. you and i both know the way to go is to spend twice as much and do a worse job yourself.
  10. i was watching a british classic car buy/sell show thing the other day and they wanted to add a shift knob to their alfa that matched better than the aftermarket one it had. the went to see a guy to wood turned things but who filled in the cracks of wood with metals and smoothed them off, it looks amazing. they did pewter for the alfa to match the steering wheel spokes. pewter melts really easily and i rekon that a bit of that here and there on your cabinet would look amazing. oh i actually managed to find a clip that included the whole process https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=349276389564132
  11. this is literally the design philosophy behind 'lifetime oil' (its not lifetime rated if you use the thing beyond the intended lifespan)
  12. can you not just replace the studs for bolts? though looking at your engine mount plan, lifting the motor probably wont be too much of a drama.
  13. i thought he owned an aircraft maintenance business, so i assume he needed avgas for the intended purpose haha
  14. @gibbon one thing you need to bear in mind is, as you know avgas 100/130 and 100LL has lead in it and this will likely kill your sensors fast. i never worked with GA or aircraft that ran this kind of fuel so i dont really know, but the lambda/stoic numbers might also be different to auto fuel. here must be av spec sensors but i can see the price tag now $$$$, would be interested to know what is done differently to handle the lead. edit - i re read your question and now i think this is exactly the problem youre trying to solve.
  15. nah, bloody expensive to get the TRUST headers and most people want them for the sound. on the SC car i wanted the exhust to be as quiet as possible so that i could get the blower. i also dont own this anymore.
  16. as has happened many times im sure, im gonna take both clints and barts advice and smoosh em all together and blast or maybe brush it with some 2k
  17. the head i have has already been vapour blasted and machined way back when. but it still gets grubby finger prints but they do wipe off. i expect that actual grub wont be go good + years of service grime and oxidation yuckness is what i would like to avoid. i will also make sure its very clean its currently completely unfurnished, thanks for the tip ajg. i do like Clints input, perhaps im overthinking it, did you do any primer @cletus?
  18. ^ this i knew i didnt want that garbage aerosol shit, but i figured an engine reconditioner may have it in bulk/cheaper otherwise yes ill be doing a brush on product, probably see what spray store have in their mistinted 2k pile as per barts advice! i really only want black though so a litre is hardly gonna brake the bank. have messaged PK from kennelly and hes happy to do the work. any advice for alloy heads? ive searched and searched and kind of come to the conclusion that ill just leave it and hope you cant see too much of it when its all furnished.
  19. while I've only met him once, he is actually good friends with some of my good friends so i might need to go have a chat. i mentioned it to him i think, though i really didn't like sounding like i was trying to get a cheap deal just cause i know someone who knows him, but multiple recommendations probably means hes also the right person for the job regardless.
  20. HI all Im trying to gain some traction on my 18rg rebuild and have come to the conclusion that i selecting a part, cleaning it, and putting it back on the shelf isn't doing it. I need a block to put those parts into. I have a good block here and once upon a time it was decked and honed, but it has been left ever since so i need to redo both of those tasks. what im looking for; - clean the block thoroughly, i assume in a hot tank, and hopefully this will remove the old engine paint? - deck the block - i want the absolute bare minimum taken off as i dont want to be gaining any more compression or upsetting chain tension - it has alrady been cut down 40 thou. - hone the cylinders, they are just stained and i would like them to be ready to take a run-in. plus the original hone job cross hatching isnt anywhere near steep enough. again bare minimum. bonus If they had the ability to recoat the block in a nice quality engine enamel afterwards for a not too extortionate fee, i would be very please. What Im looking for is a workshop that wont take heaps of material off just cause its easier, they are really hard to get and that would put this block into the scrap bin, but also isn't going to cost an absolute fortune because im building an 18rg not a race engine.
  21. i dont do instagram or much of any social media anymore. feel free to PM me on here, theres probably 10x as much info in my head than i committed to paper because im pretty useless.
  22. holy shit that was a story. A+ scary af, would not recommend. it must be an extreme amount of load having the earth hold the keel and the ocean hold the both, while disagreeing on direction. maybe they were just too long/wrong shape, seems like it would be hard to engineer out without alot of extra weight, plus it might have sunk faster or been torn apart if it didn't rip out? but a boat builder is not on my cv.
  23. its not so much the benefit of the AN barbs, they are basically the same. the benefit would come from having an AN b-nut and flare fittings, which have be undone with basic tools. you have the exact parts on your fuel tank so i expect the following will be telling you how to suck eggs, but ill post it anyway incase its just a cant see the forrest for the trees moment. im guilt of that alot. you would install the hoses/fittings like this and there should be some adapters like this to go from whatever the pump and filter threads are to the AN standard, which would look like this or thereabouts. there are a few different options for the hose fitting from just a basic hose tail to a more involved self crimping/clamping system, but that often requires a special hose, they are really good but ive not personally used those systems. (speedflow is a common one)
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