sr1600

Yeah was a bit gutted, as looked pretty ruff compared to the yellow one I remember at meremere from years ago. Those days there was a pair of yellow ones around? Yours and a mega power 4agze one Was a few years ago now

Well Played Sir Always loved the yellow one and was shocked to see the black one with the same plate on display (make the assumption with the 3s power it was the same car) Bloody good work , Always loved those centreline wheels...........

but its a masterpiece

Have got a low mount manifold for you

Hope so made mine from alloy but they are only 5mm thick , enough to give some caliper clearance without hitting the steering arm etc Because Nissan Calipers are massive width wise................

Hard to beat the taxi racing at the moment coupes would make it to much like every other racing class. However wish they would raise the rev limit a bit further and push those dinosaur v8s a bit further. They dont struggle to do 1000k these days like they used too

Lost my feed, now all I get is neil crompton highlights from 20 years ago Gcsb?

Done the same with my bare steel a good wipe with thinners and leaves a bit of a coating giid for about 2 weeks. One of them fancy Electric file gets in alot of the hard to get spots....

Easy enough to do for a man of your skills. Couple of tabs with a box section to tie them together should mean its solid as. Just remember the driveshaft/exhaust

Heard lots of opinions on the powdercoat vs paint debate but after having a half a powerstation come loose in bad weather trapped in the hole of the ship. Heres my 10c on my dealings Powdercoat is awesome untill it is damaged/chipped. Repairs are hard to achieve and most of the time need a full repaint to match anyway. Not really an issue on smaller items and will work well for what your doing 2 pot Paint is far easier to repair howwever doesnt handle the enviroment as well.

Same with everything mate, the minority ruin it for the rest. While i agree with the "who writes these rules" comment These are written by someone behind a desk who writes a limit to use across the board "aka for everyone" and you only have to look at the camber rules to see there was little thought put into the variety of car choice, aka it was rushed in to limit the crazy amounts of camber that was enveloping the overseas car scenes at the time. Reality its has to be simple enough for every tom, dick and harry in a blue uniform to enforce and alot of them are not technical people who are even interested in the exhaust , adjustable suspension and height regulations written.............. Now you have to get a piece of paper that says you camber is within the allowable factory limits for the vehicle recorded on your cert file to show the car/ute/bus/lawnmower can be adjusted to fit inside the factory limits, here by covering the LVVTA if an accident was caused by the geometry your car was setup too. Shame really as Guys like Clint (based on his answers on here) are very practical/knowledgeable when assessing what they consider safe only to be told what limits are safe by someone else because someones mate-certifier doesn't value safety as much (or people are prepared to push stupid to a whole new level). Its easier for LVVTA to assume that the thing is safe with a small deviation from from the manufacturers limits than to consider every vehicle on a case by case basis........ Not really looking forward to the first officer having a bad day to test my knowledge but i guess that's his problem......... Had to spend a fortune Cutting/welding/making everything adjustable to get my 1600 back to factory settings, End of the day once its set ill make some markings with a punch to adjust back too depending on the amount of road use it gets........... Keep up the good work Clint

Compression test should be fine. When the cambelt snaps the pistons tend to close any open valves pretty quick. Sorry for your loss

PM your address and Ill send you mine also

They done a bloody nice job on the tunnel , who did you end up going with in the end?

1991 and still chrome bumpers. ........ Love it, get some inside out wheels on it asap

Me likely From the few photos Its actually appears to be a real solid example, actually digging the matte black also........... Id say the modgies are better than the piss poor knock off version meisters ( the way they produce them with mega flat dish looks bloody terrible/cheap, its a straight out giveaway) That gearbox looks like a later model turbo box either series 4 if the mount is flat or series 5 if its v mounted, interested to know whats going on inside it actually? Normally one would by a Mx5 box and swap the earlier model Series 1 through 4 Na housings creating a MX5 box that bolts to a rx. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/34371-mx5-gearbox-behind-a-12a/

Need you too do me a pair of hilux ones, ill send you my fucked ones for the lengths. You can probably shorten them further to fit your diff.................

Let us know if you want that box picked up. Then you can pick it up on your next trip through

Flick me a message with want you want for it , bit they are generally pretty loose haha

That dude was advertising a batty with broken gearbox about a month ago and now has a unknown condition gearbox.Could be legit, doubt it tho.....id whip the bottom of it to be sure it aint stripped. His missus is trying to sell it to me on rotary buy sell swap page

Fd3s is pull clutch , however my plan is to swap the fc bellhousing onto the box and shorten the input shaft 18mm. Then I can run a normal push clutch which I already have. Im looking for a fd box and prepared to pay 450ish for a good one as ill have it mostly apart to swap the housings anyway, otherwise ill fork out a the rebuilt one local (arond the 700-800 mark) Think the fc box with shorten remote shifter was about 760mm

Housings are interchangeable, word is they are the same internally strength wise but just the fd ones have double syncros (also newer). I brought a series 4 box broken for the bellhousing along with the tail housing and will swap this onto a batty box as soon as I find a reasonably priced one. Imput shaft has to be shortened and a selector shaft lengthened to make the reverse sensor work. Be worth it to end up with a gwarbox the same length as an old school rx gearbox but 20 years newer

And the top 100mm of 4x plastic 44 gallon drums with some self tappers to sort the rest. extra points for blue drum flares

Double down