Bling

How thick you want the tubing? I got a short length of 440x50x1mm alu if that's any good.

I might need a car moved at some stage this week, can hire a trailer like I did last weekend But thought if someone wants some beer money, then it could be a win win situation. Will be moving it from town to hornby, runs so drive on drive off etc. Hit me up if anyone keen and has a trailer and keen to do the run End location is 2 minutes from main south road if that helps Edit, nevermind, towed the fucker home and only snapped 2 ropes, success.

If you run out of ideas, get the injectors cleaned, have heard through the grapevine thats a common problem on the 7afes

Only thing I can say is make sure you shake it enough. Have had average results with metallic in a can before not being mixed enough and looking like shit. Apart from that, it's going to look mint as compared to primer, so doubt it will need to be perfect to look any good.

Yeah going by that uk forum, co2 isn't as stable as argoshield, especially at low amps. Technique will be the winner on the day as both options will work, but argo is probably easier and gives a better result. Using co2 on half mil sheet is a bit of a bitch, but its doable if that's all ya have

Old mans 2000+ turbo diesel navara did this when a intake hose split in half, was SPEWING smoke. Probably not possible to be the same problem... but double check there are no leaks maybe anyway on intake?

Settings for thin metal will vary welder to welder / wire size. I just always start with a bit of scrap and adjust the settings from there. Will also depend on the type of weld you're doing as to how much heat you'll want in the metal. I could tell you the settings I used, but they only apply to my welder. However, for thin stuff, you'll want 30-50A with low wire speed, that's with 0.6mm wire, which is easiest for thin stuff. Thin metal I find easier to do in short bursts. Doing long welds is doable, but with the extra heat I avoid it. Plus your power settings and speed you move the torch have to be spot on. Short bursts is much less forgiving. I did my ae111 boot spoiler holes.... I swear its made of paper thin metal, was a pain. That UK site is where I frequent, you-tube CAN be helpful, but so many bad techniques on there you have to be careful what you take onboard Check out the method they have in the video section on the site for welding thin metal, works a treat. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/thin-metal.htm I basically read everything I could from that site, watched some you-tube videos, then melted some metal Check previous threads where people have asked for advice on what's wrong with their welding.... means that if it happens to you, you know why and can improve a lot faster since you know why its happening.

I got one of these for ~1k from BOC. http://www.bocworldofwelding.com.au/ait ... ile_id/33/ Couple of them floating around in peoples garages on here / toyspeed. Might not be what you're after due to price though. I figured i'd only buy one.... so why not buy a decent one as i've seen so many people struggling to weld with shit units its just not worth the hassle to save a few $$$. Came with rollers and welding tips for most wire sizes, so caters for most shit you can throw at it. 60% duty at 180A to me says its a pretty solid unit. Compare that to cheap units. Can adjust (infinite, not 6 settings BS) Voltage, Current and wire speed. All independently which is handy when you're learning as its easy to use trial and error to see how each affects the weld result. I've only done small welding upto 3mm or so, but it handles ~0.5mm metal which is what I wanted for rust repairs etc.

I made a tool for removing hubs(?) from a bike. Just two bits of pipe made into a T, then welded and filed a couple of tabs on the bottom of the tee. Thought the bike hub had some random pattern. Worked a charm. Making single use tools ftw.

Pretty sure guide coats are a coat of paint you spray on, then sand back with a block/whatever. The high spots will have the paint sanded off, and the low spots will still have paint on them. If that makes sense. You need the surface nice and flat so when you block it back, its all getting sanded evenly / is flat not rippled. Someone suggested matt black, which i've seen work well. Just an easy way to find small dents / low/high spots on the panels. Also, no one likes prep but the more time you spend prepping, the better the finish. So you can decide how much prep / how mint you want it

I think i'd be getting the welder out if it makes for safer travels. Would also rock the combo that is rated for best weight capacity. Couldn't you just zinc paint the welds etc rather than dipping the whole trailer? Only downside to the bigger/narrower tyres is the beach launches i'd say. Used to run those dumpy ones on jetski trailer, and forget why we changed, but now rockin' 10s IIRC.

Signed up on an OLDSCHOOL forum to ask about a relatively new car.... i've seen it all

Sand blasted by a local member with the gear?

Wow nice results man, a sweet improvement, must go like a cut cat on a hot tin roof now

Hard to see, but I had some decent dents in the lip. That was about 1.5 hours of experimenting. Just using a machine I built with some no.8 wire and a 4x114.3 axle I'm sure it would have taken longer if I had real dish I started out with a metal file (and ear muffs ), then like 60 grit, down to something real fine, then a bit of polish. With practice an hour would be reasonable time for a pretty mirror like finish. Just give it another shot yourself and pat yourself on the back with the 2 hundy when you're done

What stud pattern and wheel size? How rough is the lip at the moment?

Shit that's cheap! Not even worth hiring a trailer if he does it for that $$$ If you go the trailer way, give http://www.trailerstation.co.nz/hire.htm a try. They are in wigram area so close to Halswell and it was ~$60 for half a day. The transporter is a tank though.... so have something decent to tow it with Will be using them again soon when I move a project home to attack

Wow you're still alive I thought those snow tyres would have claimed you by now. Messing with your brakes if you don't know what you're doing will certainly achieve the above though. So if you know what you're doing, go nuts. Otherwise perhaps getting a "free brake check" at one of the local brake shops and see what they say.

Lookin good man

Have failed a wof on no rear seats before, was easier to bang them in than fight it at the time. But i'm pretty sure there is nothing to say you can't take seats and belts out of the rear. The VIRM stats at the start that a drivers seat is mandatory, so maybe only need one seat. I CBF reading the whole pdf, but here it is: http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/virm- ... terior.pdf

Wish the Escort was close to being up for the trip, will go on that in 5 years for sure though!

I have some that might do the job in hornby, if you don't end up making some you can borrow em. Two of these:

Try this http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/virm- ... ml#general

Yeah nice work there! Look so much better, nothing a bit of elbow grease can't fix aye

Best/only right answer to that question will be given to you by Elite wheels when you take a wheel in and ask them Hard to see from the pic, but IMO not sure it would look any good. my2c $50/wheel for a polish/paint sounds sweet, will have to keep them in mind incase I cbf polishing mine with my polisher