Bling

I have checked the VIRM here: https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/towing-connections/light-vehicle-towbar-and-fifth-wheel for towbar requirements and it doesn't really say (for light vehicles) there are any requirements for towbars to be of a certain standard. I know people knock them up all the time. My question is, can I rock a RockAuto towbar on my vehicle no worries? Even with shipping the cost is ~$420. Just asking in general really. How I read it, is it's sweet. But then i'm also not a heavy fabricator to know how legit the below design is. Looks like this, make by https://www.drawtite-hitches.com/ and they appear to have sold zillions of towbars.

Pretty sure the old man used O'neils out waterloo way. When I priced up a box trailer etc it was actually fuck all more as it would be so many less trips. I was very surprised, hire wasn't high and the per KM charge wasn't that bad either. That was going Akaroa to CHCH. So if you're just rolling in town it should be pretty competitive. Oh and congrats.

Good luck getting that past a cert man. Oh... But yeah nah, sweet pickup!

Probably too late to the party, but they are pretty easy to make yourself from scraps and some wingnuts from mitre10. I used 5mm rod instead of square stock though as too lazy to make square holes.

Some nice craftsmanship going on there.

Sweet thanks team. Will look into the sealant options then. Getting a pro in to do it is an option, trying to organise that will just be a punch in the dick though. So if I can DIY it, I will. Rear windows still have the foam rubber strip mostly in place for keeping the seal in check. So i'll likely measure it up and clean the windows 100% before adding back a new seal to goo against. Something like this should do the trick https://www.wyatt.co.nz/shop/REPAIR/ADHESIVES+%26+SEALERS/Pro+Form+Urethane+Sealer+Adhesive%3Fsku=PF1812.html But will also enquire about getting it pro done. But then i'll probably want a new screen put in and it snowballs.

Gluing in windows. At some point i'm looking to fit the front windscreen and rear 1/4 windows back into my car. Selleys do a silicone sealant which i'm looking at for the windscreen (was recommended). https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/selleys-selleys-autofix---windscreen-sealant-310g/219451.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI17C_3qTA7gIVDhwrCh3a6AU-EAUYASABEgK0-PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&fbclid=IwAR1Ym3KlDfOmfBYExTcBO4Ntf82yJDLDoSq6_8y4HNMWG_cadbNG8Zn5sp0 However, the rear 1/4 windows looked to be held in by mastic of some description. Is there any reason to not seal these in with the same product? Having removed the mastic stuff, I don't think it would allow for any more movement than the rubber silicon product. So just thought i'd see if there is a reason I shouldn't just use the same product everywhere. I plan to run a bead of sealant around the frame edge as it previously trapped water in the gap and rusted out the whole frame. tl;dr any reason not to glue in rear 1/4 windows with sealant rather than mastic stuff?

Looks like a good time, nice work.

We know that, but does Thursday suit you? Probably have to sit this one out, make sure to take some pics.

You probably already know of this setup, but mine is incorporated into the regulator. No gas adjustment on my welder either, I imagine it's usually done at reg but you obviously got supplied a reg without one which seems a bit shit.

If you want it roadworthy, check out the LVVTA requirements. They'll have the requirements on a factsheet on their site. Won't take long to find if motivated (i'm not currently) If it's not going on the road, can do whatever / copy Benny's video. Really depends on what parts you can source and the functionality you want.

Post the dimensions of the bolt and thread pitch then. We are all just throwing darts at a board hoping to hit the bullseye with the details provided.

Could be damaged thread as Mof mentioned? Maybe give it a tickle up with a file. Sit a m12 1.25 bolt next to that thread and see how it lines up.

Pretty quick job to stop it screaming dodgy. I also did the above on my car, as they aren't the deepest from factory.

I've used it on all sorts. Last lot I got off trademe $45 to the door for 750ml. Have used it on exterior steel and it seems to hold up fine, four years so far on the gate frames. Recently got "smooth red" and it's a close enough match to the factory paint. Topcoated inside the doors and other bits and bobs where I had epoxy primered but not top coated. Never had an issue. Did these too actually, they are pretty fucked inside, but just wanted to tidy them up a bit so water blasted them, wax and grease removed then brushed it on, the finish is sweet. Check back in a few years where i'll update if the painted lasted straight on to surface rust.

Upload the photos to the forum rather than other hosting, means they'll stay around if they are locally hosted. That Streetwise album is awesome.

Good turnout, sun turned up the heat, bbq'd meats and sharns, job well done. A few pics, resizing them down is pretty killer. If you want an original size just let me know. The line up was taken early on so doesn't show the full turnout that was pretty impressive for a lazy Sunday.

I'll see if anything came out non-potato spec and post em later

Will be bland-mobiling as a little concerned with engine temps. Ain't got time to diagnose today / this year.

Meat sticks on order, might throw some different shoes on for the drive.

Too potent and things start to eat the alloy don't they? Grease your elbows and get in there with some less potent stuff.

Hire a booth when you need it? For full resprays that is.

So does the other party just get to continue in the race series after pulling a stunt like that? To not even apologise is a clear indicator they are fucked in the head, but it surely can't be good to have people like that in the series?

Yeah for that spot i'd be going epoxy for sure, on the inside too if it's possible? Coat what you can as moisture will get at that panel again from the inside.

Where is the area? Is it going to get wet all the time or is it in a dry area? I brush on epoxy all the time (with PPE). But if I was literally never going to need it again, and the area wasn't going to be a wet area i'd probably zinc-it, then primer over that, then bog then primer then paint. Yeah I know it's not a legit as epoxy then bog then epoxy, but i've zinc-it'd shitloads of stuff I have outside and with a decent top coat i've had zero issues. Just offering up a cheaper, easier solution IMO. I see zinc-it not even top coated on galv gate frames all the time, looks fine. Is actually what I did for my gate frames, weld, zinc-it, then top coat. Haven't seen any issues with it so far. Totally depends where the repair is, haven't seen it mentioned.