Bling

I'm still going to scoff at the 95% fail rate claimed. I just haven't seen any real evidence the fail rate for WOF's is 95%. And if you happen to find a place that fails your car 95% of the time, grow a Brian and go elsewhere. Or scrap the car as it's obviously due.

Any interest from anyone in one of these? https://www.gatx.com.tw/en-us/product/GS-204M Had it in the drawer a few years new unused, 1.4mm nozzle. Got it from panel shop (Resene automotive) as a decent all rounder sort of gun. Seems like a decent unit for the money ($160 IIRC). Seems a shame to not use it, but resale also might be nothing. The nozzle looks to be the same as many others and specs say it suits other sizes.

There are enough shit cars on the road failing that you don't have to "purposely" take in a non-compliant car. But hey, if that's what you enjoy doing then who am I to judge. My pass rate would have to be north of 80% averaged over many cars varying from three to 40 years old. I must just be lucky to get a pass 16 times more often than the average person. It's as if you think an inspector will overlook legitimate problems with a vehicle if you install a faulty bulb...

You fail 95% of your WOF checks do you? Might I suggest you aren't using a smart WOF place, but one that enjoys wasting their own time and yours.

Was actually there a couple / few months back kicking tyres for someone on here. Post lockdown BS means my time is even more limited. If no one sorts you out flick me a PM in a few weeks and i'll see what I can do. That mad man Chris ran past PaP a million times recently and is pretty local, maybe hit him up and see if he's able.

I'm too busy to pop and grab the bits sorry, don't even diddle my own car currently. Premium is just fancier cars, you still pick the parts yourself the prices are just different (might not all be different) to the normal yard cars. Fenced off in CHCH.

Who said there was? I didn't read the whole page on their site, just recommended them for other work I had done.

Replacing because it's knackered? If so, maybe give these guys / girls a call, I had them do some work (not booster) and it was well priced and top notch work. https://www.toresleeve.co.nz/Boosters.html

M10 sounds a bit light?

Can't see it ending well, if it worked well it would be the norm. Being flat and with sharp edges / corners, I can see it scratching the crap out of the paintwork. Maybe if the panel was glass flat with no curves it could work, but I doubt many areas will be that flat. Try it on someone elses car first.

How much hits? Can't just cut the cover and weld in a raised section above engine? Then just bend the seat springs up a little if they hit it.

I hear he has a brand new chequebook, expense no problem. /get it road legal and build up parts till you have everything needed to do what you want.

Barra

Does a factory one not fit your car?

Will give that a hoon, thanks.

Front strut tower brace question. Running coilover suspension in the old tin can, so it should handle a bit better than factory. What are the onions on front strut braces? I have one off an ae86 that I was told fits my car, but actually doesn't as it's too short. So place is to cut the mounts off and weld on longer ones. But only keen on bothering with that if the braces are worthwhile for a road going car with uprated suspension. Other that the coilovers have stiffer spring rates / dampening than OEM but no other braces have been uprated. Give me your 2c coins. It's this style

I'm talking about paying them to scan it, which is cheap as. A lot cheaper than buying a big money scanner to have on the shelf.

Can get car scanned at Super Cheap Auto, your results may vary.

House finish came up really nice! Hate to say it, but the mis-matching of timber levels on the steps makes me sad. Though they may be temporary, if so no worries. I'm a stickler for details though and it gave me a mad twitch. Good job either way.

Will do my best to turn up in something modern and yuck.

https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/warrants-and-certificates/entry-certification/#approved-testing-stations If it has black plates you want to keep, read the first page of this thread.

Also have an old as fook record vice, wouldn't use it to squash things though, I own hammers.

Yeah basically. If the underside of a house is enclosed like that you need to have 1m either side of the cylinders sealed. It's different when things are open and closed. Once closed up, it's considered part of the building, and so any openings into said building need to be sealed behind the cylinders and 1m each side. I guess the theory is the gas is mixed with a lot of air by the time it gets that distance and so is less of a problem. Council will pull up air gaps in bricks within 1m of cylinders. Just rules being rules etc. After install, gas supplier can also pick up on things (quite common) and refuse to supply more gas until fixed.

I used to think that, i'm not convinced now. I think they have improved over time like everything else.

And that's fine, just pointing out it's a cheap welder and you're operating it at near it's claimed capacity. I wouldn't use gasless to start with, but 99% of my welding is on sub 4mm. 4mm is probably in perfect conditions.