Frosty

PCV valve is one of the first things I blocked of when I started just forgot to put it on the list, did the main breather line as well just in case the engine was running positive air preasure in the crank case. The VQ25 uses a MAF (Mass Air Flow) they work in a whole diferent way than an Air Flowmeter. Work on air density the same as barometric pressure for the weather, I think the flow sensor is optical there's an air temp sensor in the unit to. clever little buggers.

Pedal sensor, possible, wonder if the Skyline/Maxima ones work?

If I could find one I would but as of this moment I can't. I did ask if it was possable for the ECU to be causing it when I got it's brain sucked for errors, they said it was unlikely and I tend to agree with them. The ECU in the M35 is not knowen to give problems, nearly always cam chains and MAF sensors, both removed from the list of possable problems.

I really need help but you all know that anyway. Maybe some chemical assistance is needed. Right to the problem. Picked up a 2001 Nissan Stagea with a dead engine. Scored a good second hand engine and installed it without drama. Did about 500k's and it developed a problem, started as a miss and has slowly got worse. As it stands now it just cuts out about mid throttle, firing every now and again, comes right as soon as you lift the pedal. So far I have discounted by replacement or testing. Sensors where checked and found to be the same, did find a broken injector plug so swaped out the small bit of loom that was damaged. Lift pump, replaced. Direct injection pump, replaced. Plugs, replaced. Coils, replaced. Throttle body, replaced. Injectors, Checked for flow and found to be good. Blanked of the Swirl control valve. Cleaned every conection and earth in the engine bay. Had the inlet off cleaned out checked for leaks and made sure the small inlet butterflys are working. Checked the inlet and vacume lines are leak free. Had it into the Nissan guys to check the error codes, Mass Air Flow sensor and Swirl control valve came up. I've now had two different MAF sensors in it, one second hand and a new one, I have also taken the blanking plate out for the swirl control valve so the CEL is now of but the symptoms are still there. Had the Oxy sensors checked. Variable cam timing, would have come up when error codes where read. Timming chain, again it would have come up as an error. Fuel. ran the tank as low as I dared and filled with 98 octane. Replaced the in tank filter. Bleed the fuel system. Tried manual shifting the gearbox in case it was something to do with the kickdown function. Removed the air filter. Can't be the fuel filter, there isn't one fitted in these, came as news to me but there you go. Had the throtle body of and cleaned the gallerys out. Made sure the Fly By Wire is moving the throtle butterfly all the way. I doubt the ECU is the problem as the engine runs well other than this problem, good responce and normal fuel use. Put the pedal to the floor and left it there to see if it clears, didn't help. To put it mildly I have found this extreamly frustrating I've near put a hammer through the windscreen at times. I've spent dam near as much as I payed for the car and replacement engine together for no gain not to mention about 200 hours of my life I will never get back. Any one have an idea of what to look at next, or should I just bung a block of wood under the pedal?

Yeah I can help. Drop me a PM with the guys address and phone num. Can take a few pics as well if you send me an e-mail address. If you have some experience with these cars is there anything that I should look hard at. Cheers Richie.

I to have done this. Had a TT130, used the internals from a GX70 strut in the TT130 housings, tried a few different oils before I got it right. Did a bit of hunting around on the interweb thingy before hand and found you can use almost any none frothing mono grade oil. From memory I ended up using Automatic Trans Fluid but you can use most of the oils used in hydraulic systems (The heaver the oil the stiffer the shock will be). Pulling them down can also allow you to change the valve plates (make a new set with smaller holes) to stiffen them up even more.

Sweet ride. Do the Cam as well. Carb will need a tune (jets etc) for the new heads. Why do it again for a new cam? + more and better BURNOUTS.

Your smoking issue will be Valve stem seals, Valve guides could all so be worn. If the head was done with the rebuild whoever reassembled it forgot to put stem seals in.

Open chamber 2V heads if I remember right. Not the realy good ones but on a 289 should work very well. If someone has gone to the trouble of using Cleavland heads on a Windsor block, knowen as the "Boss" then you can bet the chambers and ports have been cc'd and match ported. What it's worth will depend on how well it's been put together and what internals the engine has in it. W50 $300 if it is a W50, they are cast iron. If it's an alloy gearbox is a W55, 56 or 57. $500. Bell, flywheel, clutch, release bearing, fork. $500ish. Engine could run from parts value of what you can see from the outside, some where arround $1K. The Boss inlet is very expensive to replace. If you are willing to take a head of and the sump so you can inspect the goodies inside anything up to $5K for one with Forged Pistons, Billet Crank, Solid Cam spec Cam Shaft, Gear driven Cam, Roller rockers, H Beam Rods. If it's in a Mk II Corona and certed I would be in heaven. 12sec quater mile runs and epic burnouts are just around the corner.

Yeah, I have yo agree, it did work on the 5000 cars. You did however leave out a couple of things. Av-gas or methanol was used. They also used a far better fuel pump, it was this which caused most issues with the PI along with owners playing with it.

283 used Rochester Mechanical Injection in the Corvette, once tuned was reliable and was one of the first production engines to produce 1 hp per cubic inch. This should not be confused with the truly awful Mechanical Injection by Lucas I think used on the Triumph 2500 PI.

1957 on the Corvette, not a 350 to be sure but it is a small block.

Have you used a pair of jumper cables to make sure the horn it's self is good? As mentioned above horns require quite a big amount of power to make them go, a 12 volt live wire does have 12 volt but my not have the amps to get the horn to go. An easy check is to put a head light bulb into that circuit, if it lights up all is well but if you get a week light you don't have enough power to get the horn going. Normal wiring for a horn in it's simplest form goes like this. + battery terminal to horn, other wire on the horn to the switch, switch to earth (- terminal battery). If your horn button is in the middle of the steering wheel, most are. Check the earth for the column it may be broken or not connected at all if it's been out in the recent past.

Ford 8V DOHC. Oil falling out of an English engine is not that unusual but I have the felling this one is extreme. Easiest way to find where the leak is, is to clean down the front of the engine with kero or spray can degreaser then have a look to see where the oil is coming from. Assuming you have the twin cam version. I can see why people have got their hate on, not one of ford's better engines. Crank seal is the most likely cause and the easiest to fix. The second option is the front edge of the rocker cover, again not to bad to fix, pray and hope it's one of these. Third option will be a major to fix, because it's has chain driven cams the whole front section covering the chain could be the problem. Next one will also be a big job, It could be leaking at the front edge of the sump where it meets the front cover, this seems a long shot but if the cam chain has been done this area can be a pain to seal if isn't spotless before it's put back together. One last one, If the cam chain was really bad before it was fixed it could have worn a groove in the cover causing the leak. Assuming the earlier version with a single belt driven cam. 4 places. Crank seal, Cam seal, Rocker cover and front edge of the sump.

I have one word. Earths. Have the gauges been out? The copper strips oxidise and never go back in just the right place. Give them scuff with some 320 grip sand paper then wipe down with thiners or petrol and reconnect. A film of grease on the newly cleaned contacts will keep them from oxidising again.

Couple if things you should make sure you have sorted. Replace cam followers, they have a nasty habit of wearing out the hardening and taking your nice new cam with them. Be aware most high lift cams will need the spring cut outs in the head made deeper or the valve springs will bind, bending the push rods or killing the cam and followers. Other cheep mods, electronic points replacement, balance bottom end (bolt everything to the crank and get it done as a unit, Clutch presure plate, cam gear and front pully with all thier fasteners). Double valve springs. Magnetic oil filter and an oil cooler will keep the engine alive if you want to thrash it. NEW WATER PUMP. Adjustable cam gear, Don't use cheep rings and bearings. My first engine rebuild took almost 6 months mostly due all the reading and people I talked to about my build so be patent and take your time. Invest in one of the Kent tuning books of borrow one, someone here on O/S will be able to help, get all the info you can regarding head mods as they will dictate how much horse power you can make, without flow you can't make power. Good luck, it's a steep leaning curve to be sure but it's great fun. One last thing. clean every thing including your tools, make sure you have all your assembly lube, gaskets, torque settings, thread lock, seals and sealers sorted before you start each stage.

I think you could swap the cable bracket and the throtle linkage around and put it up on spacers so it's above the fuel rail and the trumpets. You would need to play around a bit with the hight and the only problems I see is it might hit the bonnet and you may have to rotate the ITB wheel to get the actuation right. Good luck.

What type of car? If it's a FWD Bloody Large Manufacturers Cock-up (BLMC) the two things may be related. A buggered gearbox would overheat the oil and send bits into the oil filter dropping oil pressure and the extra load would slow the car down especially in the lower gears if it's the lay shaft bearings or the drop gears.

Vapor lock in the fuel system, pin hole in a fuel line or a failing fuel pump, had this exact issue with British cars in the past. Sounds stupid but it might be the problem especially if it still has the factory plastic fuel lines. They are a known problem in the Cortinas and Escorts even the Sierras had issues. If magic box was kaput wouldn't it be missing to start with before stopping. Could also be a bad earth strap to the points plate, would weaken the spark even with electronic conversion, add a little oil or moisture in there as well and you've got a perfect storm, again a known issue with the Ford 4 cylinders through the eighty's. Good luck.

Check for cracked distributor cap. I've had similer issues with a Falcon I owned, it was firing into 2 cylinders at the same time If possible find a vacume gauge and use it, it can tell you way more than you expect. Like high idle vacume with a flickering needle would indercate a valve not sealing right etc. Bit of a dark art these days but if you know how to read them they are indespencible for diagnoseing issues. Dwell angle meters are real helpfull working out spark problems, again a forgoten tool. These 3 tools should be in every Old School mechanics tool kit. Vacume Gauge, Dwell meter and a Comprestion tester, used together you can work out whats going on in a carb and points engine. Fuel pressure gauge and a timing light should be in there to. Good luck and Happy New Year.

If your running a 1G-eu ECU make sure all the sensors, idle ups, vacume network and the AFM are the same as the 1G-eu. Even the guts of the dizzy into the 1G-Ge one if the part numbers are different. High idle or stalling if you lower it may only be the TPS adjustment, if you move the idle point on the throttle body the tps needs to be adjusted the same amount to keep everything in sync. Have you tried using the 1G-eu throttle body and or the TPS on the new engine if it's compatible?

Find a Fiat 850 dizzy & mod it to suit. Full 22 deg mechanical advance and no vacume advance/retard fitted in any form on these engines it's all mechanical. Advance curve can be modified with different springs and weights. Only problem is cold stating will be a bit harder due to a bit more static advance. 32 deg is considered as ideal total advance so you run 10 deg static with 22 deg mechanical giving a total of 32, but I'm sure you already knew that. Merry Christmas.

Strange you asking about an upgrade for a Triumph radiator. The 4 core ones are sought after by the Hot Roders for the Popular's and Angila's when they put V8s in them. They kept the old all cast iron 350's etc cool and fitted in the very restricted area available in these very small cars. Rather than a shroud look into a couple of front mount electric fans, they don't rob power like a crank driven one and keep what is a small engine bay free of crap that can affect air flow and there for heat build up.

Got a set re-silvered by the guys in Palmerston North, they did an awesome job. I was $360 inc GST and shipping. Look them a while to get to our job sorted so it's not a fast option.

Check the earth wire inside the the dissy, they can break or forgotten during a service. Wire should go from the body of the dissy or the lower fixed plate to the moving plate (the one the points screw to and is moved buy the vacume advance).