KKtrips

Wood ya look at that

I'm keen as shit.

She has your eyes/grin

Weather looks reasonable for tomorrow.

Just so I got it straight in my head... Palmy crew meeting @ 101 North St, 1pm Wellington crew meeting @ Mana weighstation, 2pm? Respective cruises meeting @ Otaki Surf Lifesaving Club, 3.30pm Bring old car, F&C's and a drink or two. We hang out take pictures and then head back to Welly/Palmy early evening. Is that a reasonable summary? Chur

This is fair warning so you don't get upset at the lack of responses, but a reasonable number are out of town this weekend for Senor and Senior K's birthday in Napier.

Looking at this it may be as simple as just making up a new (bigger) retaining plate (the flat one 2nd from left) to fit 4 x 140. Then drilling or elongating the holes in the hub adapter (the black bit on the left) to let the wheel studs through. 99% of the retention of the hub adapter is through the retaining plate holding the centre of the hub adpater so you won't be losing any strength by elongating the holes in the hub adapter as long as the holes get no closer to the centre (which they won't because your PCD is bigger).

Get these and make some custom centre hubs. Should be reasonably easy for someone to make providing they find the right material. I was going to get them for the Citroen but it's probably a bit spendy for a daily driver whim.

yup https://m.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7594

Fuck yes.

Oh, I read it as the important part was you were trying to get a Jag V12 to run with home made injection rather than the crux being the sextuple of downdraughts on it.

Any reason you don't go the easier route with 3 sets of 4AGE Quads? 1.6L x 3 is 4.8L and I can't imagine a V12 pulling 8000rpm like a 4AGE so there should be more than enough airflow for a 5.3L V12? Plus 6 sets of side/down draughts, even just finding shitty bodies to start with, is going to cost like 400 times the amount of 3 sets of quads. But I do applaud what you are doing. @Goat may have some tips as he toyed with his V12 and a Link a long time ago.

I cannot make sorry - have Body Corp AGM

I like how it looks like he welded the drawbar on the other side of the diff first, then realised it turned backwards to the side he had cut the cutting edge on so had to flip the drawbar around.

In that case I would spend the money and get another brand new copper one. I got one when I did the V8 transplant into mine for $400 cash from a radiator guy I know reasonably well. Reason I say that is I'm not a fan of the aluminium ones. Unless you get a good brand then they all seem to be made of shitty grade alloy and welded together with fairly average welding. To answer your question, I'll give you my opinion, Fenix used to be pretty good but they had a shake-up in their business about a year ago (rumour is they were not making enough money or something) and I heard they resorted to bringing in the same shit radiators flooding ebay/trademe and the like then just slapping their name on it and putting them in a Fenix box. I have no first hand experience of this but it is what I've heard on the grapevine.

Just get your radiator recored - shouldn't be much more than $300 for an old Commy.

Is the mast telescopic or does it extend in one piece?

What are you trying to do? There may be another solution.

Why not run the winch through a series of pulleys/block and tackle. Pretty easy to figure out the ratio and how much slower it will be.

I hope that grease isn't too tacky or it'll absorb all the road dust/grime/crap and make it yuck to wind in about 2 years time. Personally I would have gone for a grease like spray on lithium grease.

It doesn't say in the article but it looks like in your photo that there are 2 points of contact for the window to attach to the regulator and that the points are independent of each other once the cable is withdrawn - so personally I would put them at a known point on the winder (like fully up or fully down) and then mark on the tube where both of them sit before pulling the inner cable out. That will mean you can't paint the tube unless you have some other way of getting the mark to stay visible after you have painted and before reassembly.

First Question - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=335018 (steps 14-16) Second Question - VHT do a REALLY good vinyl paint. I got mine from Repco but probably plenty of places to get it from.

I hope if you are ditching the Hemi then you are going to put in something grouse like TD42+T Safari running gear.

Season 3 Episode 3