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cletus

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Everything posted by cletus

  1. you would probably get away with a straight thru muffler if the engine had a turbo , but an NA engine will need something better. go hang out at a boat ramp and when a tractor with a coby sticking up launches a boat, thats a good indication of what a non turbo 2L diesel would sound like
  2. something with a bit of a 'maze'inside ie not straight through. Autobend - Universal Mufflers - Page 1 - Created with Publitas.com
  3. id suggest fitting a proper muffler there are few things more punishing than a loud exhaust on something that is slow.
  4. All 3.5" from the turbo back No other mufflers just the one at the back
  5. While we are on the subject 05 honda accord with k24 Been sitting for 4 years Starts, does the fast idle thing but when it warms up it revs up and down approx 1000 to 1800 rpm Stuck idle control valve? Tried filling it with carb clean to unstick it but no dice Put scan tool on it but doesn't show a fault
  6. Thanks. More stuff that must have accidentally fallen out of grandads work vehicle into the garage
  7. Adrenalin r mufflers work well, I have 1x on my Plymouth, 3.5 inch straight thru and it makes more difference than I thought
  8. Went to Chrome at Hampton downs , gave it beans all day, used about $200 in fuel, took a few randoms then wife and kid out for some skids and everyone had fun.
  9. China will put whatever standard they feel like on a lens to sell crappy light to round eyes You will probably find they won't meet wof beam pattern requirements though
  10. I'm not sure what's up with redline saying they can't be certified, it may be an ass covering statement, so they don't have to warranty any that fail cert. It's not a loaded arm so should be OK provided the welding is good, sometimes the robot who does the welding at hardrace forgets to turn the gas on or forgets how to weld, then the grinder robot has to come over and grind it out for the welder robot to have another go Also sometimes there are bind issues with hardrace stuff. Generally it's OK though. I'd steer clear of anything aluminium if you can, that can be challenging to certify unless you can get proof of what it's made of and there's no doubts ie don't buy anything that could have been made in China. Lower arms are no good due to them being loaded ie they support the weight of the car , and there's a threaded rod end that has a bending load on it. Can't be certified unless you get an engineer to supply calcs they are suitable, none of the arms checked meet the loading requirements as far as I've heard
  11. There's a YouTube video which shows it a bit better, there's another wave shaped part that pulls the piston back down
  12. I like the fairing,where did you get it from?
  13. I remember your bagged c10 from a long time ago, i also quite liked that hilux , was a bit tempted when you had it for sale , i have half heartedly thought about selling my c1500, and modifying a hilux in a similar fashion
  14. I like how you dont muck around. Some rhd conversions have pretty rugged workmanship hiding in firewalls and wiper panels... Are you a diesel mechanic?
  15. Hi gibbon do you need a new best friend
  16. I spent quite a while trying to get some proof that the chassistech spindles i had for my chev were chassistech ones, in the end i gave up and bought new belltech ones
  17. As far as paint goes? I painted this 10+ years ago with bunnings enamel paint from a tin When i put it in the green car i just cleaned it and gave it another coat of the same stuff. Block is iron but the heads and manifold are aluminium It holds up pretty well
  18. Nope. Could not get used to balloon spec tyres, thought it looked yuck every time i pull the cover off so put 205/60/14 back on the front. Wof time again too,should be ok ive only driven it 3 or 4 times since the last one
  19. Probably a question best left for when you have the parts , attachment to the vehicle and where that attachment is are as important as the parts themselves I generally avoid telling anyone any parts are ok based on photos , i have been threatened with legal action in the past because i told someone some arms looked ok, they bought them and they were shit , and they wanted me to pay for them
  20. that falken thing was fairly short lived it was only valid for a specific model of tyre which has been discontinued apparently it was one countries office of falken that released that alternative size chart, and once the main office of falken found out, they said nope, cant be used any more. lvvta continued to accept the falken sheet for that model of tyre. i havent seen any for a long time though
  21. Correct, but depends on the car. Some vehicles that have the bump stop on the shock are designed to have more load through the shock , so need less/no strength added
  22. If its an aftermarket belt ie Autoliv, then you can swap for a webbing type one, they make them all the same
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