cletus

nope

http://oldschool.co....2-escort/'] Good start!

first time i saw one of those i had an actual LOL as if putting stickers on wasnt easy enough already

its worthwile getting a repair certifier involved earlier than later. ive had a customer with a nice freshly painted hq ute, have to strip off the new paint to get a repair cert for re reg. cost him about 13k to get it back to where it was in the first place

stolen from nzmoparforum; similar? i would agree with KK here, probably an aftermarket thing

dunno if its been mentioned, on the same weekend in whitianga is the street rod nationals as well, so there should be some other sweet old cars around. apparently the hot rod guys are visiting leadfoot ranch as well, not on the same day though http://www.streetrodnats.co.nz/

Is this Julius that works at E+H motors? tidy little corolla, nice work.

good thing the seats fold down so you can deal with all the ladies swooning over it. i learnt to do backwards donuts in one of these on a mates farm

did you set the timing with the vacuum disconnected?

where did you get that figure from? its not mentioned in the wof virm or the lvv exhaust standard. having an exhaust sticking out miles from the bumper is a fairly recent issue/trend so there is no rule as far as i know. having a hot bit of pipe sticking out where someone can walk into it would be frowned on by the authorities

id be cautious about a hoist from a workshop upgrading, not many workshop owners would spend $$ on a new hoist unless there was something wrong with the old one, unless they were going from 2 to 4 post to do wheel alignments etc. at my old shop we had a istobal 2 post and a heshbon 2 post hydraulic. the istobal used to give its fairshare of trouble, chain stretching, drive belt slip, worn drive nuts, stuff like that. the heshbon was good. i use different brands of hoists every day, the main issues with china hoists are lift/drop times are a bit slow, cheaper ones have individual locks that you have to pull a cable on both sides to release, some dont have threads on the pad adjusters so you have to use spacers, build quality is a bit suss on some of the switchgear etc. have been looking at buying one recently and would probably go with something from these guys http://www.gdcequipment.co.nz/hoists/ none of the shops i have talked to have had any problems with them. another thing to consider is most second hand ex workshop hoists are 3 phase, if you buy new you can choose either 3 or single phase. my opinion= new china one will be fine for a home hoist, you arent going to use it enough to wear it out quickly, and the things that are a disadvantage in a workshop like slower lift times dont really matter at home.

have chatted to a vw wrecker about these, after certing 2x golfs that had the vr6 engine biffed and the 1.8t put in its place. i was wondering why they went to a smaller engine, he didnt have much good to say about the vr6. or w8 engines either 1.8t is quite cheap, they have a piddly little turbo so they come on boost early, which makes them a good driver, quite torquey for a little engine

my 2c is similar to others, old valiant had a 4 core copper radiator with a fan off a nissan maxima, could do burnouts all day if required. current one has a alloy radiator with an expensive davies craig 16'' fan and its borderline keeping it cool on a hot day. might try some falcon twin fans on it next

http://www.hwr.co.nz/truck-museum recommend seeing this if you can, so awesome

Has it got factory belt anchorages in the back? you can buy new belts, they arent that expensive. most belts have the same mounting so they are fairly universal trans seal i wouldnt stress over too much, if its been sitting a while sometimes the converter drains back into the trans and it finds new places to leak from

I say sir, jolly good job.

yep 2 loops for 2 piece shafts. holes in bonnet- there are restrictions on how far a scoop etc can stick out the bonnet, also it cant have any sharp edges that could harm pedestrians that are too busy on thier i-thing to notice a car. http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ctions.pdf

either way would be fine.

if you are going to bolt the x member straight to the floor, id make it 100mm wide, and along the flat part of the floor and up the side of the tunnel, on the top side of the floor, then stitch weld it in So would 100mm x 100mm x 5mm be reasonable sized plate to spread the load? depends. if its in the middle of a flat bit of floor, possibly not. if the plate overlaps a crossmember or goes up the side of the tunnel, then it might be fine. hard to tell without seeing it

there should be a form available at your local testing station/post office, MR16. fill it out and send away to get details updated

Hey man, how have you lowered the back? just blocks? i want my ute to sit about the same height, looks tuff.

FYI,last toyota i looked at (gx61 corona) had very bad amounts of bumpsteer when fitted with silvia spindles. they bolt on, but steering arm pivot points are quite different

if it was me id just cut them off before the bend

good chance it would be a LOT easier to make new mounts. in theory you could use a complete silvia crossmember/rack/struts/brakes. it would be a fair bit of work both in mounting it all correctly and setting it up. potentially a lot better handling and braking if done right.