Ranter

Replace or have your radiator professionally cleaned and checked, either way you'll need to do this and it may not have cracked it's head yet. Also make sure both radiator hoses are getting hot, if one hose is still cold the thermostat probably ain't opening which will let it get hot pretty quickly.

With Hunters I get an old radiator cap (which is the same as the oil cap) gut it an fit an pcv valve into that and connect to manifold, they idle and run better with the bonus of stopping or slowing their oil leaks.

Doesn't sound that horrific, does it need a new flywheel or do they replace with every clutch? Or is there a non dual mass one that will fit? Anything Mechanical in Hornby and there is another out that way I can't remember the name of for some reason I used to take Mercedes Sprinters to, the agents used to send me there. I'll update if it returns to me during the day.

The turbo Mitsis have a very good system that drains back to sump, could just use that stuff and drain it to a catch can. With side drafts you'll want them perfect, any over fuelling or too rich and you may get bore wash or fuel vapours in the crankcase unable to escape.

The landrover club allows Landcruisers, otherwise I guess they'd never complete a trip. Didn't think there'd be any decent Bighorns left but I had a Mu in from Turners the other day that was obviously maintained very well and was mint other than leaking injector pump, could be a bargain to be negotiated there. Petrol Prados are also very cheap (except at the pump I guess) the diesel stuff from any brand holds value, you can't replace them.

Best thing about them being so gutless is the engine lasts forever.

Is the lower arms quite crude? That Broadspeed thing I had in a while back had them, had no cert because factory but bloody well should have.

Probably online listings somewhere. I can't remember the model of Peugeot shocks I used but they have been ok at factory height.

Bmw's have no dip stick tube? Neither do their over rated oil leaking engines. Anyway drained a litre out of my transmission and it is mint. I understand the filters don't require replacing but its a filter I can change so I will, I do it to all my customers' cars to preserve a possible huge expense at the magic transmission specialist. (most of the transmissions we've had doomed by specialists that are still driving around many years later is suspicious) Also this one was the first I've seen with an internal fabric filter like an air filter, was perfectly clean but that's the point, making it stay that way.

Thank you very much. Yeah I figure I'd replace the internal filter after draining and removing the pan and filter is what lost me the measure of what came out, hard to measure a pink puddle on the floor.

I know there are some Toyota guys here so I have a modern car question, How do you get the correct fluid level in a 2015 Aurion transmission? Have drained fluid and removed pan to replace filter, refilled until it pours passed the drain tube which equalled about 1 litre of fluid which is obviously not enough so checked it at operating temp and added about another 1/2 litre. Have now added the whole 4 litre pack of Toyota fluid 500mls at a time until the transmission "feels" right but I have to go over the alps a couple of times at the weekend and even when new the transmission would have decision issues after the decent. Only a month left on warranty so I don't want to cook it.

Rough when cold can be head gasket but that wont stop it starting, can't help on the parts replacement mission but how long you been cranking on those plugs? They'll foul up in no time and it'll never start, first I'd try cleaning and drying them.

Remove the sender unit and take it to E Parrot and Son. Don't need no electrical skills for that and it's stupid cheap if it is at fault. It will only have one pump and one sender surely, although I have no idea what DeathStar is.

I can't see an issue if I'm honest. They're like that these cars, first one needed a engine rebuild, no dramas done. Next up pops a good parts car in Nelson, we'll take that only to find its way too good for that so get that back on the road, next up a one owner gem that needs rebuilt, oh we'll grab that too.........

Na mostly engine bits and pieces, switches, lenses etc. Do not buy windows rubbers from aussie. They're rubbish.

I've seen warmed over Imp motors twist the axle like that. Looking forward to this build, I have a number of parts, it looks like you have that sorted but yell out if you need anything.

I'd remove the door panel and power up the motor to check, sounds like a switch issue. Passengers won't work if master switch is faulty. Not sure on that particular car but I've never been as lucky as a fuse or relay fix for windows.

I'll have a number of crank pulley bolts I can post one, but just go down to Mitsubishi and order one. They're quite often stretched so I buy new ones. As for pressure plate ones, I don't have those but if Mitsubishi don't have them just go to a bolt place with your flywheel and get some that fit. Another thing I don't like using second hand bolts for.

Have a bendable covered piece of ali that I use as a funnel can be shaped anyway to make a nice channel into the bucket. Lol at punching holes in filters, fuck that for a mess.

I was assuming not even Bryan would import a Marina (no offense Bryan) added to the fact he used to term re-registering I figured the advice was legit, a cert would be required if fitted before inspection.

Leave the lap belts in until re licenced then fit modern ones. My Jap version has a modified floor for 4ws rear end and its rear seatbelts were screwed (self tappers) through floor and bolted through plastic/light metal speaker housings. I took it through VINZ for WOF's and it passed so asked their advice upon discovering this crude kiwi job, registered now as two seater. I don't see why if its a real expensive pain you can't remove the rear seat. I assume factory mounts would be there but also recall the scary seatbelt mounting jobs done on early imports so maybe they aren't,

I've had issues before and I've removed the filter and pumped oil back towards pump with a siphon, messy but once oil is there its away.

So cool, have an exact replica less sunvisor, also same tractor. Doing the same really just tidying it up keeping it original as, will probably fit power steering though. Is it Chch new? One of the reasons we grabbed our one is my business partners name in service book as service manager of local dealership.

None of my numbers match that (82 Pajero, 91 Pajero, Starion) but outwardly they're all exactly the same. The L200 which is manual steer has it's box up the front, must be a 4x4 thing.

I'm thinking now that the seal goes in from the inside requiring full strip down of box to get at it which will be why I swapped boxes, no time for that.