Ranter

The Charger is awesome, liked it better though when everything fits under bonnet. A mate is doing everything possible to get one, anyone want a Torana Hatchback?? lol The Silvia also did burnout until temp guage was in the red.

There are still a few head sets left in NZ, not cheap though. Probably not worth when the main difference is an inlet gasket and some valve stem seals V2040K part number through I think NZ Gaskets. (via Ripco)

Is this a corolla diesel? A 24mm bung on front of gearbox under battery, attack it from underneath. There will be another 24mm at the bottom for draining. I'm thinkn you have air in the clutch hydraulic system and after a few pumps it gets better, until when you run out of fluid completely. 2morro pump the pedal a few times before you drive to see it its easier to get gears or just check the fluid level and for signs of leaks inside car by pedal box and around the slave cylinder on the gearbox.

Does street meet mean track won't be prepped?

What year? Only problem I've come across on the late 90's ones is no one replaces the fuel filter under the inlet manifold. Most I see still have the original I think mainly because they are usually owned by lease companies or rental car outfits.

From memory I think the thick wires go to the top of the manifold with an insulator separating them, only the thin wire goes to the glow rail. There is a similar setup underneath the manifold that is real hard to get at, that I think is an afterglow setup. Either way the glows should stay on after the car is started, be sure to get the glow system correct before turning to injectors, then to tight tappets etc.

I still use Swift alot, has everything you'll need if you can't be bothered importing it. I think the best way is to use Metro stuff, you can buy them for not much and use engine, exhaust manifold/ front pipe etc and disc brake setup.

I get similar kms out our 1c Corolla with around the same mileage ( a clocked 260,000kms)around town driving and have been maintaining it pretty well since around 1997. I have never replaced glow plugs. Only reason to do so is if it won't start cold, or starts with rough running and heaps of black smoke. There are no high revs in a diesel so your knock might be like a shift light....

Have seen that Torana at the drags before, it sounds incredible. Is it genuine?

No idea mate, although one has the rays centre cap. I found them under a tree when doing the garden before moving out of an old house, they were on a facelift s14 we imported.

Yeah not sure if I should let them know, they might be suprised a hacked up prototype was daily driven for 19 years and 114,000kms although probably proud it lasted longer than most Starions. I did ask Mitsi NZ to look into it for me, they said that couldn't find any mention of them or anyone thats knows anything about them. (I know they wouldn't have checked shit though)

The best way to describe its handling was the way the old guy I bought it off described it, its like someone drags the back around with a trolley jack. It is good fun throwing it into corners and seeing how it reacts. As for no others i'm not sure, the story went there were a few shipped to NZ back when you had to remove engines and pretend they were going to the wreckers, a car shark on a buying mission (in Japan) saw them on a transporter headed to the crusher and bought them. The previous owner was a friend of said car shark and had instructed him to buy him something different.

Got it home With some wheels I found with spacers Engine Back from panel shop with engine bay and door shuts painted and all panel work done (couple years later lol) After I had refiited steering, front end etc Painted! Random but the odd steering box, not to sure how many 4ws cars have a steering box? Bit of a jump here, has glass, dash and now engine. (the duration of this build has made me put the engine back in with no detailing, figure I can tidy that stuff up when its a driving car again) As it sits now

Hi all this is my widebody Starion, its not what I wanted when buying one as its a low spec odd ball but happened to find it not far from home and it saved me importing one (or put it off a few years) It has a four wheel steering set up out of a Galant VR4 confirmed by Fuel, and a few other weird specs, eg: 4 stud hubs, no intercooler and a low output engine, Jap style digital dash and interior but euro style number plate surrounds. (photos in first post are shamelessly borrowed from Prozac he took them before I owned it)

Been years and I can't remember why but turbo conversions to the LD used to always melt number 6 piston. Maybe thats why when you see them they always have the black smoke option and completely sooted rear of the vehicle. I guess I would add fuel first, shouldn't need alot of boost anyway.

Footbrake still low? Did you back off h/b adjustment first? Then adjust shoes manually and tighten h/b cable last. Assuming that you didn't remove the wheel cylinders and require bleeding.

Ashleys Taxi Tow I use within town limits and Southern Salvage for bigger missions.

I'm surprised there is no easy bearing replacement. Back in the day they fitted rubber underneath that bearing to pack it up, and that was the agents. "simonnuske" is an Aussie parts guy I found, he had new thermostat housings I needed the other week, I found them here so didn't use him but he set up a Kiwi bank account to make future purchases easier, might be worth asking him.

No, just knew someone at VINZ who changed it for me after I showed him my problem and my unwillingness to drill holes etc to fit them, since they had put a few WOF's on it it was probably in their best interests. But as I say I haven't had to get a WOF yet, I'm not expecting that it would be reasonable to have a seat and no belts...... I removed a lot of seats from wagons so they can be work vans and get WOF's sweet, but sometimes they want a cage separating cabin from wagon.

I changed my car to a registered 2 seater after finding self tappers holding the rear seat belts in.(and no factory mounts) They assured me that I will not have to remove the seat next WOF but I won't know for a few months what will happen with that battle.

Last few I did were $150+ rego costs, mine were 40+ years old so cheap enough. Same cost and same job as when I last was doing fresh imports, much more relaxed test though. They aren't going to ask for 3d chassis measurement etc after a body repair unless its highy dodgy looking.

Dumbest thing i've ever read on this forum, good job. If you remove your clear political bias which is not actually required on a car forum you might realise that the re vin process is more about stopping stolen or poorly repaired insurance write offs getting back on the road, and at the same time protecting the consumer who may purchase car down the line. If National had it in for old cars, why can we import anything we like as long as its 20 years old or older? And why all the (Labour) laws restricting modern diesels and performance cars from Japan?

Yep EDL are expensive, I use Wurth for proper 10mm 12mm 14mm nuts for Jap cars, cos I get easily pissed when every nut or bolt is a different size during a job. Blacks for anything else.

Unplug the computer in the car now and see how easily you can pull the wiring out into the engine bay, easy. Then fit s14 engine with its loom and connect, really is simple. You need the s14 loom and computer for the variable inlet cam. The other loom down the drivers side for gearbox, starter, alternator oil presure etc should be the same, if it isn't still only a few minutes to swap them out.

When driving my Starions I could swear they have more torque than suggested here 214 ft.lb and 177bhp (132kw) for NZ intercooled models.