Testament

woah negative nelly

get MSdroid and log on your phone then you get gps speed etc. too. maybe not the best refresh rate but still useful.

Wtf? The ndt guy shouldn't need cert info he is doing ndt on the part and saying yes or no if it has a crack or not. Someone has their wires crossed or is bullshitting you. The fuel system info is here https://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/HCTM_SAMPLE_Chapter-10_Fuel%2520Systems.pdf&ved=0CBoQFjAAahUKEwiT8bmx-dnGAhXUNogKHWPlC20&usg=AFQjCNGKYxAi1DvvedptW_4pN9taYIYq8g&sig2=HBxWWfmR8yKEDe_9RDPUsw

Nah he is not going so you will just have Norwegian Magnus

you don't need a doubler plate if you are welding mounts on as the plate on the other side doesn't really do anything/ the rail isn't directly attached to it/ you are not pulling "through". But if you are welding it needs sufficient weld area, so depending on the design you still need a footing plate or means of achieving sufficient weld area where it is welded to the floor/sills/chassis - and decent welds of course. So basically it depends on the details, it's pretty hard to prescribe exactly what is ok or not as it depends on the seat mount design and the shape of the floor/what the floor is made of etc. if you are unsure talk directly with your certifier.

Hmmm I have some 20x8-13 hoosier slicks on hotwires......

so this happened again so found a new "high performance" one to go in also it looked like the trans to hanger bearing angle was a bit off and probably not helping (not sure why when the engine is sitting slightly lower? as that should put it off the other way) so put in a new trans mount (old one was oil soaked and soft) and still looked off so cut and it shut it to add 10mm which also gets the back of the head some firewall clearance rather than the bees dick that it had. also got some new shoes 225/50/14 R888s mostly because they were the only cert legal tyre I could find to fit a 14x8 that was not a giant balloon/too tall

lots of things have been done that have been bad ideas

its a pretty tasty block of cheese I still say it needs a tunnel ram with twin four bbls and a big cam though! http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-1106-rat-rod-engine-build/

yeah if the 560cc injectors have a different opening time the fueling will be a little different, esp in the transition so those early links only do acc enrichment on rate of change of MAP? did not know that.

you're at 2/3 anyway aren't you?

NVM/I just put the plates in anyway/no big deal.

the last few days and nights disappeared into grinding dust up my nose and welding spatter in my hair first patched the floor where the old seat mounts has cracked it cutting followed by much bashing then some welding and a couple of hours of cleaning that damn blue paint off more welding then, endless in and out of bits and grinding this and cutting that and eventually welding things to fit the seat rails getting there, but still much to do.

Q#1: Welding a 25x25x3mm seat mount rail/bracket (horizontally/across) to a chassis rail/chassi rail extension that is already 3mm wall 75x50, do I need to put a 3mm plate to spread the load on top of the 3mm wall RHS? i.e. tunnel - chassis rail - chassis rail - sill seems like overkill to me but reading the section of the hobby car manual that is what it is telling me, although it doesnt talk about wall thickness of the chassis rails additional crossmembers or mounting brackets are being welded to. Q#2: Is it ok to mout driveshaft hoops to the transmission tunnel rather than the floor? i.e. if there is a suitable flatish part of the semi vertical part of the tunnel that you can fit requisuite size mounting plates

for heat as pink batts etc. it is mostly trapping air, and trapped air is a great insulator because the molecules are far apart (i.e. most gasses that are kept relatively stagnant) on its own (solid fibreglass and resin) it's ok but nowhere near as effective. better than metals because there is no ordered crystalline structure as such (on a macro level) but an order of magnitude less because everything is a solid and right next to eachother to pass the heat along to the next guy. trying to remember how electrical stuff works, i think because the glass or epoxy are molecules where the atoms are stuck to eachother by the bussiness with sharing electrons etc. and the because long chains in a mess the electrons are not very free to jump around as they are in an ordered crystalline metallic material where they are stuck together because of +/- charge at different ends of the shape of individual atoms or smaller molecules? could be wrong on that but I don't have time to open a book or wiki it so that will do

well thats nearly 2 more months evaporated. im sure ive made more progress but not alot to show for it mostly boggling over how to do various things and planning what needs to be done to meet project deadlines which this in now on. of course this means the 124 had to fail a wof yesterday too of course, but i digress. tonights work, foot plates for drivers side seat mount rails. of course where they need to go is right where there are compound curves in the trans tunnel. a couple of hours of bashing steel on steel and blocks of wood and thinking what was that bussiness sheepers goes on about stretching this or shrinking that then more bashing and fits ok then I decided to have a wire wheel party

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/art-90001953/overview/

you can buy them on summitracing but they are all quite large as they are generally designed for 4wd suspension. so big wide bushes and 3/4" threaded ends

adaptor plate and T56 then

for the work in welding and drilling them it would have to be marginal vs. new axles for a 9" I would think. it sounds easy but you could easily spend a whole day on it. what do new axles cost, could probably sell the old ones for some amount too?

Moreys 4 Life

if you want manual there is a getrag something manual that was the factory option in other countries but probably hens teeth here, but you never know it might be worth importing from scandanavia or germany if the other options are spendy too. if you are going tremec go T56 just they are $$$$. stout though. Maybe J160 dunno if it will hack the torque or not though. but why manual? I wouldnt think it neccesary unless you are building a dedicated circuit w126 because madman or something if you just want something stout for skids then there are alot of auto options that will take as much or more abuse e.g. 722.3 (might already have this?) uprated with extra frictions and line pressure wound up, 722.6 from a late model merc, powerglide, TH400 or 4L80E.

Use existing line as return, get a walbro or deatschwerks or China 044 intank type pump and jam it inside through the fuel level sender hatch