thminiman

you tried a bearing puller or even a press man? my jsut be a press fit, looks like the new one has some corrosion on the shaft, its very possible old pump has that same corrosion which is holding it on real tight

cos its a smaller shithole than that giant shithole called auckland?

and then lol when it gives way and she falls on her arse

certifiable: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 168675.htm Because it bolts to origional studs, as well as locates centrally and has centralising part for wheel not certifiable: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 082880.htm just sandwhiches in between wheel and hub *this is information i learnt some time ago when i was helping comply cars into nz, not certifying. ive been proved wrong with cert type stuff before and im happy to be proved wrong again if you find out. from memory there might be some magic number where first ones HAVE to be used, you'd need to look into it more at the end of the day 1st ones are a fuckload safer, but for instance ive got the second ones on the mini with from memory no wheel locator so if your not going for a cert and can find them, just make sure you use longer studs and have some decent meat for the nut to hold onto

ahh i see i dont think the things are that cheap then, i remember (some time ago now) alloy ones to cert standard where upwards of 200, if they dont meet cert standards im not convinced tyre shops would sell them, as they're then liable if something goes wrong as it's illegal

so what is the actual purpose of them? to help centralise the wheel when you put it on to bolt it on? would just look like a cylinder with, what, 5.5mm sidewall? and as wide as the locator part of the hub that sticks out? edit, so you need to space the wheels out 20mm as well as centralise it? is there enough thread to get the nuts on if you where to just space it 20 mm using the standard studs? also, plastic as a spacer, surely you cant roll that legally? if so, fuck that. i think i've misunderstood, or maybe others have?

in semi unrelatedness, i painted my trailer with brush and por15, it says to put it on quite thick comparedto most paints, and like you say, it drys mean, barely left any brush marks on trailer except where i obviously put it on too thin. and yea, buy cheap brushes and dont even bother trying to clean them, just biff it out and use the next one. lol this comes from the experience of me trying to clean one with black paint, then realising the meths/turps everything else wasnt diluting it, and i was using my bare hands i had black/blackish hands for about 2 weeks

i agree with boe rad lee you're the man tom

id rip the head off not sure on second hand market but you are likely correct about just rocking a new head

needs something to kill the 'OMG HI' ness of the purple paint greyish steels might do it but im not sure looks meke though, and you've prooved it goes schweet so good shit bolts

it should be stamped or cast into the disk somewhere, will be either on the outer circumference, inside hub face or other part, or on the outside face. hard to explain what im meaning, but anywhere the disks dont run, it might be best way is to take to it with a wire brush hardcore, everywhere as it will no doubt have suface rust every where other than where the pads go, which is basically anywhere where the stamps might be. will be something like 'min 17.3' or some shit tbh bro, likely hood is that being an old car, with a gouge out of it like you said i doubt you'll get it to size after machining so if you cant find the markings then just presume they're fucked and move on

IMO if the cert guy says it cant be done, it shouldnt be done, i know you're a dodgey cunt etc so you prolly wont be aiming for a cert, but if you where, then it would be right up there on the top of the list of shit you'd have to fix after the check, therefore fucking a set of wheels

the camp grounds in filly is men, i think you can get like a 6 person room for 40 bucks or sumthing, but its ages away, so maybe try find equivalent in palmy

wasnt it kerryn?

was a supercheap earlier and had a look, they had ones that where quite small, probably only 3mm,

what are you getting at pete? surely he'd just re-stud the existing hub piece of piss. Why fuck around grafting mx5 hubs or what ever you mean in to the van, would be a big engineering exercise in fuck all. Depends on what kind of wheels you want to run as to the stud pattern you thinking steels or alloys? lol, true story was thinking of something else

another no for those gt scoops where does rad actually sit?

i assume you're asking as in what else is IRS rear wheel drive and 4 x100 mx5 roll IRS aye? could you slam that shit in, and roll mx5 cv's and make up new driveshafts with mx5 cv spline at one end and bongo cv spline at the other, presuming the bongo box/diff rolls cv's?

thaught so, you'd be able to regrind a normal drill bit to that stz

someone chuck a pic of one plz

confusion begins with the mustang pinto engine etc in more related news fuck yes

i think i missed out on something? white cars fuxord yuh? so you got a new one for reshell, which your painting etc now? so arnt you gonna have to do all the mods etc again? like the steering colomn and tunnel and shit? or arnt you 2litreing it again?

where in nz are you? i'd think about buying it

next time i roll palmy, which shouldnt be too far away, im coming to look at this shit

i may ver y well consider buying this peice off you