DJZ

Talk to Prozac, he had all that figured out.

Are you using a boost controller? If so, what type? The top port is above the diaphragm where the bottom port is below it, applying boost pressure below the diaphragm when the top port is open will open the wastegate when it overcomes the spring pressure. Applying boost to the top port only will make the wastegate not open, also don't block the top port off when using the bottom port or the wastegate might not open. If you have an electronic boost controller you can usually use both ports, it applies boost to the top port until it reaches full boost, this keeps the wastegate shut longer, in normal operation they will tend to start opening early. I'm tired so this may not be accurate or actually make any sense at all.

I bought one of these and have done two windscreens with it now, once you get the hang of it they work pretty well. I heated the glue with a hot air gun then managed to slip this in from the outside, then you pull it along slowly cutting it. I know you can get the wire cutters but I'd be worried about scratching the paint etc.

I don't know anything about K series motors but 3KB head and twin carbs bro.

I would probably put proper hose clamps on everything if I was you, I don't trust those squeeze together ones with anything EFI.

'82 & '83 L28ETs have optical dizzys. If you need them in a hurry you can have mine if you replace them at some stage, I'm not going to need them for a while.

Is it an optical dizzy? I've got a new cap and rotor that came from MSA in the States.

Got the check valve round the right way? Or as said above adjust the master cylinder push rod, it's pretty easy to do. I glued the reaction disc onto my push rod after losing one inside the booster.

Waup waup, possibly your reaction disc has fallen out. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69706-reaction-disk-pictures-and-walkthrough/

I've had Z's slow to drop revs when running auto computers on manual cars.

I would start looking around the temperature sensor, check for broken wires and maybe change the sensor if you have another one. The L28 (and FJ) TPSs actually have very little adjustment, it's only a 2 position switch, idle, full throttle and anything else in between is supposed to be where the computer runs in closed loop with the O2 sensor. Set it so the two idle contacts are touching when the throttle is fully closed and so they break contact when the pedal is just touched. You can be the full throttle contact a bit so that it's in closed loop mode for longer which should equal better fuel consumption on a good running car.

Sweet, I had a feeling somebody would know him.

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Not a bad way to spend $10,000

If you are talking about this one it looks like it has been welded and redrilled. Can't see it being that much "stronger", two dowels would probably be sufficient if you feel there is a weakness.

I can't recall what a 4AGE head looks like but there are these things on Trademe, way more expensive that using frost plugs as suggested though. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/mazda/engines/auction-552216496.htm

http://www.ringgear.co.nz should be able to supply you a new one if you need it. I've done one in the oven before.

You could try Shuk Engineering.

How many GTS-25ts did you smash on the way home in that 4 door weapon? The ad for it on Trademe made me laugh.

Can't quite put my finger on it but I think somethings not right here.

It's a Koken socket, any good tool place should be able to get them. I tried to get an impact one but apparently the supplier doesn't bring them in to NZ.

Finally managed to track down some new leads, they are Champion ones and are a little bit funny, you have to reuse the top seals from the original leads but there isn't really a nice place for them to sit. Got to be better than the leads from 1992 though. New lead in the background. Finally got round to buying a proper socket for getting the filler bung out of Nissan boxes. It's a 17mm 8 point socket. The bung was very tight, I ended up bracing the power bar against the floor then lowering the car to get it undone. Now I'm no gearbox expert but I'm pretty sure these weren't supposed to come out with the oil. They are parts of a bearing cage and I suspect it's probably the countershaft centre bearing. The box has been noisy since I got it, it's probably been rooted for a while. The oil was quite thin and very, very grey/black.

Heaps much. I had new control arm ball joints made to suit a different hub assembly. Shouldn't be too much more than a standard ball joint rebuild which I think is $125? Small ball joints might be cheaper?

You could ream the arm to suit a different taper or do what I did and get a new ball joint made with the taper to suit?

Should be M10x1, all of the Nissan 4 pots are I think. What did you do to them?