fuel

I would maybe pull off the upper timing belt cover and just double check the timing marks - other than that it could be the ECU.

That's a good point - when it does wind over on the starter, does it sound like it has even compression or does it spin a bit faster as if it doesn't have compression?

The mid 90s RVR had a factory trigger wheel attached to the crank and cam sprockets, am wondering if that could have been used instead?

Where is the missing tooth so the ECU knows it is at TDC?

I would pull the sump off and check the bottom end.

Given that the running lean caused the wideband to possibly overheat, would the running lean have caused any other engine damage?

4G62 brackets wont suit 4G32 engine.

I'll be after some 4G63 cams!

I wouldn't risk it with the Wideband being powered up on initial fuel pump prime - probably still enough time to heat right up and then have cool air cranking past on start up. If it were me I would use a delay timer that activates the Wideband say 5sec after the oil pressure lamp goes off.

I know my Magna has/had one for the air injection pipe into the exhaust manifold for the cat converter, but I think the delay is only like 5 seconds judging by the change in tone after first starting. I guess find any 80s/90s carb engine with emissions bullshit and grab one from that.

Right so I took a punt with replacing valve stem seals and I no longer have the dreaded blue smoke following me around. I got to work by removing the rocker gear and using a cheap eBay valve spring compressor and a length of rope. Old crusty stem seals which had hardened And the new which seems to have fixed it

/just sell it to me eventually

Have you pulled fuse 20 yet? http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/heres-how-i-made-my-aston-martin-v8-vantage-sound-ten-t-1787956660

just noticed the ABS has been removed too.

You may as well add a BOV in place of that bung, though would help to recirculate back into the intake.

Do you have any full shots of the engine bay? I imagine it has the red rocker cover version of the 63?

Don' forget to gap those plugs to 0.8mm - 1.1mm is too big.

huzzah this build thread has pics in it again!

Check the coolant level too as low coolant level causes the temp sensor to be intermittently immersed causing the fluctuating idle. Also holy LOL at those exhaust tips..

If you can find one - there is an import early-mid 90s L300 van which runs the SOHC 16V 4G92 1600cc engine. That would be a good donor for the water pipe stuff. A 4G93 isn't as easy to RWD convert as say a 4G63 where there is lots of aftermarket or well documented support. Plus the 93 isnt a robust engine either.

yeah that would suck! I guess buy rope that has that slippery coating maybe?

TD05 will bolt onto exhaust manifold (some porting wouldn't go a miss) however a new downpipe to suit TD05 flange and intercooler hose coupler will need to be fabricated.

I would just say swap to a TD05-16G from an Evo1-3 - features the response of the TC05 with the higher flow of the TC06 and has two journal bearings instead of one as a bonus. Both the TC05 and TC06 maps are poor for late 80s standards.

I'm about to go through this myself - but yeah I think you should do a compression test first both cold/hot and dry/wet to get an idea of the numbers (do the other side so you know what to compare it with). I bought a cheap head on valve spring compressor tool from fleabay and will get around to it eventually using the rope trick.

I would say the L200 radiator just isn't up to scratch. If it has BHG enough that it overheats you'll notice rough running, oil/coolant mixing or consumption and steam out the exhaust constantly. It could also be thermostat partially stuck closed or stuck right open causing the coolant to flow so fast that it doesn't get a chance to cool. Replace radiator and see how it goes. S13 radiators are roughly the same size too so you can even pick up a cheap aftermarket job should you wish to upgrade at some point.