Truenotch

You got me started... Now you receive homework... Some systems have them after the header, some have them on the header: Here's a reading list about anti-reversion chambers: https://crateinsider.com/using-anti-reversion-to-create-free-power/ https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1075515-megabomb-header-explanation/ https://forums.seatcupra.net/index.php?threads/exhaust-design-and-anti-reversion.319359/ https://nasaspeed.news/tech/engine/the-art-of-scavenging-myths-and-methods-of-getting-burned-gases-out-of-an-engine/ https://nasaspeed.news/tech/engine/the-art-of-scavenging-myths-and-methods-of-getting-burned-gases-out-of-an-engine/ A bit about megaphones: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/post-collector-exhaust-add-ons-can-affect-exhaust-tuning/ ... This hole is almost as deep and weird as the black magic of 2 stroke expansion chambers...

I'd be keen for a copy. If you want some interesting header data, go over to KPR's starlet thread. He has a dyno now and has been testing a couple of different 4-1 headers (38 and 44mm) and tried a 4-2-1 and an expansion chamber a while ago too. Here's the link:

@kpr - have you done a side by side comparison of your 151kw tune with the filter installed/removed? I'd be keen to see if there's any difference with the filter on. Also keen to know how much room you have inside that filter between the top of the trumpets and the inside of the filter element - it looks spacious compared to a domed pipercross/ITG. I also lolled at the way those silicone joiners jiggle in the high RPM. There's some serious pulsation happening above 5k or so.

I reckon the steering wheel is bent because people will put all their weight on it to get out of the car... Might be worth adding a grab handle somewhere to make it easier for oldies to get in and out. Also, gizz a hoon on your rusty penthouse .

It's so cool seeing this car on the ground with a front bumper and bonnet. Looks staunch as fuck.

Hey y'all. Hypothetically, is there any way to reverse a lapsed registration? I'm pretty sure the car in question fell off hold in May 2017 and the owner didn't realise until it went for a WOF the other day. I've heard there's a form you can fill out to reverse the cancelation process, is this true? Asking for a friend.

A few snaps from Thursday night. There were more cars earlier on that I missed.

@~Slideways~ - either top hat bearings or a mismatch with the spacers that slot into the top bearing. The spacers have shanks that slot into the top bearing, if they’re a bit long or machined a bit too small you’ll get the same play as a worn bearing. If you replace the bearings, make sure to get good quality PTFE lined sphericals. Anything else will wear out in no time.

Far out, that is some bad pitting man! Condolences. On the plus side, if you think it went awesome before, it'll blow your mind once you get a decent bottom end into it. It's getting pretty hard to find 18R blocks now, so might be best to go oversized. Are there any friendly engine reconditioners in CCH who might be able to help? Also, what to the valves and seats look like? Hopefully not as corroded as the bores.

Well done re: attendance. Shame about security. Im happy to chat to plaza management if it’ll help at all.

Those have “49cc” cast into the cylinder and no one will ever know it’s 60cc anyway. It still won’t be fast, but at least it won’t be so slow .

Get one of these up ya: https://www.treatland.tv/suzuki-FA50-45mm-cylinder-kit-p/suzuki-fa50-45mm-kit.htm 60cc and should be ready to bolt on and go.

That's not a lack of air cleaner issue. It'll be a big air leak or the throttle slider is being held open (either not sitting in the slot right or a bunch of shit holding it open.... or a sticky throttle cable). They need an air box/filter, but you'll only notice it when under load. It will start to cut out under load from being lean. All you need to do is grab some air filter foam from a bike shop and make up a new element (the bike shop made one for Rahn's FZ in about 10 minutes). Come at me if you want any tips on making Suzuki F's go OK.

Paging @BobbyBreeze, do you read me.

Shit yeah. The East Cape 2 stroke club grows!

Wow man, it's so much better all the way through! I thought the old line was a torque curve for a while...

Luckily it's a 2 stroke and pulling the top end to bits is a minor job. You might be down on compression which should be fairly obvious once the head and barrel are removed. Have you inspected the variator and belt at all?

Douglas Automotive and Engineering are tops. @Geophy's family have had their vehicles serviced there for years and Vince (owner) is a GC. We randomly met him in the USA and went to Bonneville with him and his son. https://www.douglasautoandeng.co.nz/automotive

Sounds like you’re set. See you on the dirt.

Come down. There’s burgers for all.

Yeah, it’s weird alright. Are they nikasil bores or steel sleeves?

New details up. The next meet is set for Thursday June 20th at Burgerfuel . Link to the facebook event for those who want to share: https://www.facebook.com/events/363175081069715/

Just tear off a corner, jam it under your tongue and wait for an hour or so. If the lagoon starts to look like rainbows, then there's a good chance it's LSD. / do a skid. As others have said, if it's a clutch type LSD (or a viscous for that matter), both wheels should rotate forwards when you spin one side. If the diff is worn out, it should still have some level of grab, but a person on the other side of the vehicle will be able to hold the wheel still. People have mentioned that torsen/helical diffs spin the wheels in opposite directions. It's unlikely that a truck like yours would have a torsen, but there's a test for them too. Jack the rear of the vehicle up, spin the input shaft and try to hold both of the wheels still. If it's torsen, both wheels will spin forwards. This only happens when there's torque/load applied to all three shafts (input and both outputs), if you stop applying torque to one input/output it will unlock.

@mark105 - still got that AMR supercharger?

Oh man, the froth is building already! Time to start working on the bike I guess?