mikuni

Just looked into this a little more. Tbh I'd be putting this off the top of the list, as there are a few difficulties in even getting a gearbox on there. Then there's the sump issues. Gearbox - nothing bolts up. Some things are close, but an adaptor plate is still required. http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn17 ... 59_961.jpg Which isn't too hard, but then you need to remount the starter, which is beginning to get tricky. There's some weird and wacky creations out there from people trying to get around this issue. http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee22 ... 221125.jpg At least with the Opel engine you have a cheap gearbox that bolts up in the 4 cylinder VN Commodore gearbox. What about the 2.5 litre Opel V6? It's the engine I wish I went with in my Chevette and has the same bellhousing, so should bolt up to the Getrag box from the VN Commodore.

This would be so awesome. These engines sing, it would be worth it for the sound alone. That coming from an old car would be very cool.I should just shut up so you do that, but I'll go on. I wouldn't bother with those 80's designed turbo engines as they were very much for power rather than economy. I would look to as late an engine as you can be bothered with. Obviously things get trickier with later model engines, but much of this is for economy while still making decent power. The engine I put in my Chevette was a 2 litre twincam and even in a big heavy Vectra (1300+kg) it was rated at 5.4l/100 open road and 9.5 around town, which is very good. Imagine that in a car weighing half as much! It does have a tricky electrical system though, so I would suggest ditching it and going with a link if you wanted to head in this direction. As far as weight, it wasn't heavy but I never weighed it due to not having anything that could go over 100kg. It wasn't heavy though, I could lift the engine off the ground by myself and I'm not a big chap.

Looks choice. Very tidy looking in the photos. When tai's finished with his wheels you should grab them off him. Will look cool brown on brown, plus I think they'll suit the style of it being "japanese".

Awesome colour on those blacks. I didn't think it would really work against the red, but it looks better than I expected. They sit nice on it too. From memory (about 10 years ago so bear with me) the Chevette 12V feeds all come from the back of the hazard switch, which should get a constant 12V supply. It sounds like you might not have this constant supply anymore, so it's only becoming live when your hazards or indicators are on. Only reason I mention it is because it sounds like your wiring might be correct, just the cars is failing

Just text Speeno. Sounds like it's all come together sweet. It's running strong and they made it down without any issues. I guess he'll chuck up the last couple of weeks/months updates once he gets back to Brissy (and recovers).

Shit yeah. Looks sweet. Better than the photoshop suggested even.

Black bumpers looks sweet. Might as well stay with the Gemini ones.

Dumb. Sorry man, have been sick as shit with the flu all week. Thought it might be a bad look turning up to a pub after having a couple of days off Time to mix it up? I think a few people are unkeen on pubs or other such things. Daylight savings begins this weekend so maybe we could try the gardens again or maybe a cruise somewhere? See what people are keen for.

I've got some roof racks that should fit the bill if you don't have any yet Although might not look right with the whole 'GT' thing going on. Spoiler vs. Roof rack etc

Both myself and zep got ahead of ourselves when doing our engine conversions/builds. He ended up with race seats and a half cage, I ended up with a stripped car and race seats. All when the original idea was just to give the cars a bit more power. Don't lose track of your original goal just because it's going to potentially be a fast car. You want it to primarily be a cruiser and occasional track toy, not the other way around. An old car is never going to be the safest thing around, but that's not what they are about. Plus people still manage to kill themselves in new cars with 5 star ancap ratings, so providing you drive with care and don't get too carried away when not on the race track the engine isn't going to put you anymore at risk.TL:DR - just slap the engine in and go hooning as is

You should development a neumatic (or similar) system for sectionally/automatically changing gear in a manual gearbox. I was thinking about it afew months ago and it wouldn't be too hard to implement. It wouldn't have much advantage other than w*nk factor, but it would be very cool, particularly for remote shifters, conversions or other similar setups.

When you tried push starting it did it just lock up the wheels when the clutch was released or did the motor turn?

This.There are a couple of threads on the forum for converting to bike carbs that go through what you need. Sounds like you have the right idea though. Biggest issue will be getting spark because you'll probably have to ditch the ecu, as it won't be seeing all the necessary inputs without the intake.

They have a retarded external starter solenoid that fucks out all the time, chances are it's that. Ask your dad to stick a screw driver across the terminals on the starter motor to see if it turns over. If it sparks awesomely and does nothing else, it is ceased. If it doesn't spark at all, check the battery/wiring. Lol. Tara?

So what's going on here then? Resurrected from the dead or different car, same plates?

Hope I'm not dragging the thread too far off topic, but link? I should just drop around to one of those hot rod places and have an ask.Brent, has the pro7 plus minus class been canned?

Yeah I've done this already. Taken heaps out but I'm still left with a stupid German wiring loom and crappy old wires. Would be cool to just chuck something new in there with a more simple layout. Again, I could do that myself but buying all the different coloured wires adds up for only 1 car and it would take me ages to get my head around the wiring diagram and the process of doing it.

Did you manage to find someone in Hamilton to do the re-wiring? I noticed you chuck a post up in spam but don't follow enough to see whether anyone replied. Might be worth chucking a thread up if you haven't already.I'm sure there have been a couple of guys from Auckland advertising similar services over the last year or two. They probably travel for the right money. I'm keen to do my car at some stage. I imagine a stripped out race loom with base functions would sell quite well. I've hunted for something like that but was surprised to turn up no results. Is there such a thing? Just for the vehicle body I mean, not engine loom.

They are non-interference, so if the cambelt has snapped you would get away with just chucking a new belt on and going. Would pay to do water pump and idler/tensionser while you/the fixer is in there though.

fuckenpudditonalready!

It may appear that way, but don't beat yourself up over it. People that I've seen who have bought someone else's race car have always found a seemingly endless trail of costly problems. Much like building your own car I guess, but at least its your own car. If it was $10k with a factory 13B minus T it would be worth it, but not as is I reckon, as it puts you out of the class in 2013 and possibly even 2012.

This, I have one in the garage, they are quite lol the real question is if anyone has ever built a 1age? would win the awesomeness award I bet 2age is cooler, as it is 1.3 litre. The 1a is 1.5 litre so hardly exciting.

Yeah man, just chuck a 4age into it. It won't make too much more power than the lada lump, but it will be much more reliable and use less gas. At least you won't have to change the diff.

This. I can't believe how much they suit it. Nice choice. Quoted for awesome.

There should be a spigot for the flywheel to align itself on. It doesn't need to be a shiny, polished finished, better if its not. As long as it is smooth enough with no indentations or ridges.