drftnmaz

I guess it depends what your using the car for, but a change to rack done correctly will make a much nicer car to drive IMO, and at a guess for a ke25 i think a starlet rack+housing+mounts would be about right for the bumpsteer, ke70 housing is ~1" wider so if anything you may need the starlet housing with the ke70 shaft inside,

We used the r154's for competition drifting with 400kw in-front of it, and during that time pulled apart 3 different r154's, 2 factory fitted boxes, one with remote shift the other without and then one new from toyota box, the old boxes when upgraded were awesome, fit the bearing plate mod, and shiftier forks (unfortunately only alloy available that i know of, off the shelf) but the late boxes which we refer to as the mexican r154s, were made to be alot cheaper, I even broke one when running it behind a n/a 2jz (so all of ~130kw?) On the inside of the gears where it would mate to the shaft instead of having teeth cut all the way around they have 3 teeth cut, then 3 missing and then 3 cut and so on, so you just strip these out quite easily, when disassembling the box, the main shaft normally has a 34mm? but holding it all together, but the mexican r154s have a pissy little circlip. Don't even get me started on the synco differences, we had toyota bring in 7 different syncro's to suit 4th gear and none of them fitted, ended up moding a r151 synco hub in there i think (mate does gearboxes for a job so this is just what i saw while him helping me with my r154's)

The new r154's available from toyota are the worst possible version of the r154, don't get one if you plan to have decent grip, we fell for that a couple years ago

43psi with no hose is the standard setting, last person probably wound it up to stop it from going bang being +T, unless they have chipped and remapped/tuned it... good injectors have no problem running upto ~90psi but alot of pumps can't keep up at higher pressures, (especially older walbro's etc) would pay to use wideband to see what fueling it like before too much adjusting, but if it's running on n/a computer without chip+remap then timing will also be wrong and slowly wearing out the engine

I'm unfamiliar with that exact box but is there a bush on the end of the gear lever where it goes into the box? these can be overlooked and when worn will make gear changes more difficult, and often only cost under $20 to replace

The old guy that showed me how to do diffs when I was young used to do this for our own cars but not for customers cars, you would find a bit of pipe with close size ID+OD (or spin to suit in lathe) and then two spot welds at 180degrees from each other to mate the two together, then back in the lathe to part it off now 2mm longer and still square, then you can get a 2nd crush of them

I've had bad dealings with them before, got shocks shortened there, went to pickup and they had assembled and tried to charge me for assembly, had doubled the price, so make sure you tell them you only want shortening not extra labour changes haha, but yea go straight to a machine shop not a retailer

way to check is remove the belts and try to wiggle outer section of pully, or go for short drive with no belts? at least that would rule out the belt area of thinking (and alt bearings/tensioners etc) But yea the "only when moving" thing makes me think i'm not correct...

could be the pully on the crank has worn out, the rubber that holds it together can wear and then the belt tension holds it together most of the time, but under certain loads it can't keep up? something to check...

And i think you'd have to re-weld after them or add more bolt holes

leave as is... 10:1 with 8psi will make the same sort of power as 9:1 with 12psi, but 10:1 will be much much nicer to drive! If you are really worried then run AV gas, we run 10:1 with 18psi with a huge turbo on av and it's awesome all round

flapper disc to smooth it is the way!

was awesome to see it hooning around the track!

I had heaps of failures with the Klingspor ones, get them hot and the glue fails, do a little side-grinding or cutting on funny angles and they can fly apart, however they are very quick to cut so can save alot of time when used properly, and time is money... first couple that let go can freak you out tho

I spent the afternoon making stuff using a makita 1.2mm blade and it lasted the whole time, abit slower to cut but took a punishing, much like a flexovit would i think i'll try most of them over the next couple months and see if some of them suit my type of work better than others, might need to keep stocks of a couple types to suit... thanks guys!

cheers! will pop in there and have a chat

you mean the flapper disc's? or grinding blades? whenever i have brought cheap (say under $5) flapper disc's they are very poor quality and last 1/5 of the time a $12-15 flapper does I was just as bunnings eariler today checking out stuff because I had some other bits to get, and the cheapest 125mm cut-off's they had was the makita pack's of 10 for ~$33, the only single 125x1mm they had left was $5.90! (100 and 115mm were cheaper but no good to me) .8 sounds lush, keen to give that a jam

Smith and arrow seem to have pretty sweet prices, never heard of "Zirconia" brand but will give anything a go, $1.10 per cut-off and $4 a flapper sounds awesome

awesome, thanks for the idea's guys!!! I haven't dealt with PPS before so will pop in there and have chat (as i'm often in penrose) atm im not totally sure what i pay, being through a mate but i've never got a invoice or anything, was getting the KLINGSPOR brand and would get a box of 25 "125mmx1mm" and 4 Z60 flappers for $100, so i'd guess ~$2.5 per cutoff and ~$10 per flapper For a while I had a engineering shop that would give me all there old flapper's (what they said was rubbish was only half life to me) and i would just use those, but again mate doesn't work there anymore so no more hook-ups I'm not necessarily looking for the ultimate cheap price, just a fair deal with little-to-no hassle, i like the flex-o-vort? blades, not a big fan of klingsport, and will try out some makita ones this arvo and see how they last (noticed they are 1.2mm rather than 1mm)

I think this is tech? if not please feel free to move it.... I'm looking for the best place to bulk buy grinder blades, mainly 125mmx1mm cut-off blades, I had been buying on staff account from a mate but he has changed jobs, I'm self employed and go through 15-30 a week so need a decent place to buy them, also I go through a few flapper disc's and grinding disc's but not that many Was gonna start getting them from BOC because i have a account there but they seem useless at holding stock and often have to order them in on request I would like to buy 50-100 at a time for a decent price, where does everyone else go? (happy to set up a account with a worthy supplier) oh and im in auckland but don't mind getting them freighted here if needed

i run a n/a engine 9.5to1 and 20psi, its no drama, just need to have a tuner that knows what hes doing and use the fuel to cool pistons and starve off detonation (ie running 11to1 to 11.5to1 AFR's) running rich like this looses you stuff all power (like 3-6kw) and keeps things safe, then the only downside is how much timing you can chuck at it to make power, but if you're not chasing big power then a little bit up top is a minor trade-off for a super responsive fun car can you not mill the head chambers to bring compression to where you want it? adding 10cc to that volume will drop the static compression by about a point (im way to lazy to do calc's for you)

measured up some s14 stubs, ~35mmx55mm, you could build a sleeve? and s13 is slightly smaller but haven't got any kicking around

yea you can run ke30 or early ke70 87mm steering arms, have to run the ke30 brakes on 30 struts, think they have the smaller spindle...

they are 28mm by ~15mm wide on the inner bearing and 17mm by 15mm wide on the front bearing, and about 70mm from outer edge to edge, i've only got the stub sitting here atm

i haven't got any veriners here, but ke70 looks about 28mm, will try to find my verniers for proper measuring