Burntrubber

Machine up and press a dowel into the existing stud holes. Have done it not sure if it's legal have also seen them welded again not sure if it's legal.

I'd say say fuel issue my wrx did it years ago would start idle fine drive ok at low throttle no boost as as soon as i gave it a little more it would fall flat and come back to life as soon as I lifted off. I only drove it like that once started on my way to work so I just got a tow truck to work where I figured out the pump was on the fritz.

I was getting alsorts of backfires on startup with my megasquirt on my Gemini. Turned out been voltage drop while cranking caused by old starter Motor got it fully recoed new windings etc. I had tried everything to stop the misfiring with no luck and it ended up been something that seemed fine.

Cool thanks brakes are vn commodore rear disks calipers hand brake aswell on a 84 gemini it's all bolt on no modified parts. It's a pretty common mod is Aussie. Fronts are s5 rx7 4pot calipers with BMW 270mm disks. It's more the brand I was told I will be getting best pads I can get to be honest cars turboed needs to stop as good as it goes lol. Current brake upgrades passed last time which are turbo isuzu piazza front and rear the new setup is roughly 40% better so I'm sure there not borderline thanks again.

Brake pads for certification? Are there any rules car is currently certed years ago but doing new brake upgrades and someone has told me pads might get picked on when I get the cert updated.

Agree meagasquirt ecus are awesome it's the DIY design of them that gives them a bad name because 90% of the people who chose them because of the cost and the fact they can do it themselfs actually can't. They still need to be set up to a professional standard not backyard styles lol. Even a factory or top brand aftermarket ecu will have problems if the wirings dodgey.

You defiantly need to sort laptop out and data log it you'll be able to see everything that's happening when it cuts out. In saying that you'll need to learn how to read the logs also which isn't hard but will take bit of time. Everything else has been covered if it has even a little bit of dodgey wiring it'll play up. For me battery in the boot and old worn starter made for couple of years of crap starting until I recoed the starter cause it died. Once recoed it pulled less current and the megasquirt didn't get all pissed off.

These look mean boned on some 22s my work mate has a white one with gold 22s real head turner

My Nissan turbo has a crack in the exhaust housing and can see one in the water jacket aswell but I don't run water so not sure if it leaks. It's been like this for over 5 years and I run 18 psi aswell. Depends on weather your keen on the risk I never even considered it and I've been lucky I wouldn't repair it tho don't think welding the turbo core is a good idea maybe the housing.

I also asked about it on the lvvta forum and got same awnser heavy bushs on the diff end. Bushs are just to make it softer nicer to drive etc. I had made mine with bushs on the front originally but changed it when I found out I made them myself used the stock outer arms and some threaded bar.

I have recently done diff conversion in my Gemini which is the same ad a chevette and I used rose joints both ends I had major issues getting info out of my certifier as he was unsure. I ended up going to a local hot rod shop and asking them they said rose joints on front as minimum not allowed rubber/urethane on front ok on the rear tho/diff end. I have set it up with twin arms pointing toward the center to help it roll and it goes through full travel and the bars a still loose no binding.

I did originally have all the holes filled and one left for reset it worked fine I have one of those DIY auto tune ones aswell now because I was trying to track down a starting backfire/lock up. It ended up been voltage drop sad old starter sucking all the voltage up and the ecu didn't like it.

I agree I was abit hasty with my cas wiring and coil driver grounds when I converted from fuel only to wasted spark and I had heaps of issues ranging from poor idle up to coils frying after only 100ks I'd love to get a fully featured MS3 my old MS1 has done me well tho. I have nothing to compare it to except one of my mates has a link not sure what model on a pretty high hp sr20det and it has shit cold start and running and idle is bit shakey and he's been told its cause of the big injectors.

I run an old ms1 v2.2 and it's sweet had issues but all my own fault lol number one thing is grounding all needs to be what the online tutorials say if you cut corners you get issues. My car runs awesome starts good drives sweet cold which seems to be the hardest thing to do with after market ecus.

Gemini fronts fit with the rears I know Gemini wagon and sedans are different length wagon ones are shorter I think so wagon rears in a sedan would make the rear lower than the front not sure about a hatch tho.

Sounds like ignition to me also have had same issues in several cars my Gemini did it when I increased boost from 12 to 18psi was the plugs boschs under 1000ks changed to ngks and fixed it. Latest was my wrx plugs been little hard to get at I didn't check them first they were smoked car started idled drove fine unless I floored it new plugs fixed it. My escort years ago was points same syptoms. And lastly my wife's laser was the ignition module.

www.euromarc.co.nz for engineering supplies especially abbrasives. www.comac.co.nz for all sorts everything from casters to central locking kits little panel clips and a lot of other hard to find components.

Is it possible to fit a Holden hub using different bearings and/or pressing collars onto the stub to take right bearing. I know this can be done with the stock Gemini stub to take vl/vn era front hubs.

long time since an up date lots has been done and lots still going on. In the middle of a commodore lsd conversion at the moment after that im going to look at a new intake manifold.

I have Piazza running gear in my 84 Gemini I have front springs and brakes along with the diff there far better than Gemini but nothing spectacular imo. The master cylinder could really do with upgrading there's quite abit of travel in the pedal that would probably make it feel alot better. Its all certed etc also has a turbo Piazza engine so it goes quite well and the brakes still passed. I had to change the panard rod mount over like Brad said also mounts for a sway bar not sure if your coupe will have a sway bar though.

Go on Ozgemini.com there's heaps of options for brake conversions on Gemini's there's an ozzie company called hopper stoppers they have a website they will make custom hubs that take VT commie brakes.

^^what he said but with cleaning the injectors aswell they might be sticky.

I have Hilux shocks in the front of my Gemini there 75mm shorter so were perfect for me. I just belted the first bar out with a hammer and sat the shock a a piece of pipe about 50mm long second one I actually cut the squashed bit off because I had to belt it quite hard. It just poped out after that I put standard urethane eye type bushes back in.

Galv can chip and flake zinc plating however does not I think that was the meaning of that.

I have had a lc-1 with my megasquirt for just two days I love it. I used to borrow the local cert guys hand held display but that was abit hard with no rpm logging so I bought my own sensor and controller and log it all on my laptop which is choice as better fuel economy got rid of a few boggy spots where it was to rich and it makes 1.5psi more boost.