Mof

Hey man great build My old man built us electric karts when we were kids (6v VW generator on 12v battery) He used a morris minor window regulator for the steering at the end of the steering column to the "tie rods" Kinda works like a rack and pinion and the steering wont be so touchy cut the long arm off (I'm sure I didn't need to explain that)

Every single chch member will be there that night

The mount on the back of the hub is not the same, and new mk2 rotors won't fit dammit!! So does anyone have a pair of mk2 front hubs? Cheers Mof

http://www.trademe.co.nz/home-living/kitchen/hobs-ovens/other/auction-793861818.htm

Thanks guys that's what I was thinking. So are the rotor mount points the same on the back of the hubs?

So two days back from Murica and I'm in to it Scored some 1/4 bumpers to replace the homemade 1/4's on the front, thanks Mr.Mainstream Also picked up some 13x7 Hotwires Spokes were painted black, so I scratched the paint off, sanded, more sanded, then polished one wheel so far Only took 2 hours So what do we prefer, Modgies or Hotwires? (Modgies are staggered 13x7 neg offset front, 13x8 rear 0 offset) Needs more low, but that can wait Got a full set of the proper wheel nuts from Appco for only $50! (Priced BNT $9 each) Also, still got some unanswered questions, and some new questions if youse peoples in the know could share your knowings with me? 1- Do I need a fuel return line on the 32/36 Dgav, or can I plug the outlet? 2- Why do I have M12 1.5 wheel studs on the rear and 7/16" on front??? Could this be linked to the small rotors? Do I have mk1 hubs on the front? I thought mk1 hubs don't fit mk2 stubs? and mk1 stubs wouldn't fit the struts/steering? wtf? Please don't guess your answers, facts saves a lot of fucking around on my end I eagerly await replies and discussifications :) //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/43865-mofs-1979-escort-panel-van/ Also looking for a glovebox if anyone has one going spare?

Yeah man you got that van sorted quick! Window removing came out awesome Fuck I can't wait to get home

So if it has never been certed for anything, and it gets lowered without certing but falls within wof criteria, Does it need certing? lol mindfuck

Yeah I wish Flying to the states Monday, too much to do before we go Plus the vans in bits, don't think it would make it if it wasn't in bits anyhows next year eh!

^ Just read that in Stewies voice lol

Page one Check it lol

Heat gun works good for bringing the black back in to pp. I can't remember if it works on pe

Did you remember to fit the release bearing? Don't laugh it happens

Has anyone ever put stop leak through the engine? That shit is great for blocking up radiators. Might pay to get the radiator rodded

You're both bang on. There's a bi metal that opens a valve when hot and lets the viscous fluid thru and almost locks it up yada yada There's a guy in chch that reconditions them. He's very good I'm sure there's others around the country Or backyard repair. Open it up put in a piece of rag in and reassemble. I did this once on the side of the road

Saw this today in the flesh, and it is super low! What a monster! front end looks eeevil

Ok so the original jump start killed the alternator possibly? "correct" jump start is positive lead to positive on battery, negative lead to good earth point on engine (NOT neg on batt) if not it can kill diodes and whatnot Edit: good earth like engine lift hook and on dead vehicle only

or the mansion

Take the Graveley Tehehehehehehehe

Sorry man biggest we've got is 108mm Try a truck body builders like Seaview or Hales

Possibly not... Ill check at work tomorrow

+1 Edit: And answered lol

My old man has a tin box on engine for exactly that

Na its been made to look like a RS2000, the 3 centre gauges have been retro fitted by cutting holes in the face. The Tacho gauge style doesn't match the speedo, you can see the centre needles are red not orange, and the centre gauge is vacuum (rs2000 is oil pressure)someones done a very tidy job though don't get me wrong Oh and the carb is all cleaned, and reassembled. got the bimetal working perfect on the choke butterflies, tested it with a heat gun. and I picked up a new diaphragm off trademe. Still not sure about the return fuel line though, I think im going to continue to run without. And plans are to soda blast the carb and manifold before refitting

A harder brake lining on the shoes would lessen the braking Lower the CoF