fletch

Keep the 6s. They are the right one for your engine. Plus, it's running sweet so don't change anything.

I have had success with acetone one time, but got high af, and it might have done damage to some of the tracks on the board. Maybe it was me when I was high af?

The head is the valuable bit. Stick it on a 3tgte bottom end and send

Could you drill out a stock rod little end to 20mm for a test fit? If it works then your only some China forgies away from being sorted

I thought it looked familiar. Has it still got the rb30? I did some lush work on the exhaust to make it fit the taller engine

Was that from highland Park/howick kinda way? Looks like an old mates one. Lots of updates please. I need motivation to finish mine.

I would expect you could get away with the stock rockers vs the cnc ones as you have lighter valves. Once you can get the pin to stay in place..

i have ublock origin? v1.61.2, on Firefox. work laptop. no ads on utube. I don't know if its paid software, but i have had no ads for at least 2 years on this laptop.

Yep 12v

Workmate has a dyna something. He got some mount kit for it to fix the wobble and has ridden it pretty hard 2 up all over the country. I can ask him what kit he got in 2 weeks if your interested.

Pretty sure it's OK to chop them back. As long as there's no dangerous bits sticking out. If you have some soft thing you might need all the protection you can get for the steering

Maybe. Lots of rwd vehicles get their front guards pushed into the tyres and they can't steer.

Been in a few derbys. Won once. Good fun. You want a fwd carby car. Late 80s early 90s. Rip out all wires, dash, everything, and just wire alt, dizzy and starter. A small engined thing is good. Move radiator across to gbox side and long hoses to allow it to stay plumbed in after some re-modelling of the front. Make sure the front guards can't get pushed onto the tyres. Lots of psis in the rear tyres. Cut exhaust short so it sounds like your giving it death. Cut out heaps of metal so the car bounces off everything. I think a honda odyssey is one of the best cars currently. The mechanicals are protected so they last. I seem to recall they are not allowed at some tracks.

What about those linear position sensors like the cheap dro ones for your mill? I'm sure you can get 4-20mA output ones for cheap in any length. Stick em on the side of the actuators and into an arduino with 4x motor outputs. Sorted!

Soz bowl, dad duties and the work life seesaw is broken.

I got a mate up the top of kaka road just after the okoki tunnel who would welcome you for a pit stop and possible fuel top up of required.

What link have you got? Got any spare outputs? If not, you could probably get a little CAN expander with some inputs and outputs (Maybe a PDM). Use it to monitor meth tank level, turn the pump on, drive the injector/solenoid. I would imagine you get a water/meth specific pump that's got its own built in reg. From the internet - Water/methanol must be injected above 60 psi to properly atomize into the engine. Pressures lower than that will reduce the cooling effects, since the larger droplets exiting the low-pressure pump reduce total surface area, and will cause little to no gain in performance. You could make a table that injects vs throttle position and manifold pressure. Then do all that tricky stuff to pull fuel out and change timing when it's active etc

Good progress. I'm coming for sure test drive at Xmas. Chop chop

A junction box needs to be accessible. I would say ok if behind oven. But, Probably best to make lead on cooktop longer as 7kw cooktop only needs 20a supply, and will probably be too small to be wired to the 32a oven supply as is. I'll do it for ya, but have to wait until after I have done barts rangehood

Large tank will be large, and heavy for that pressure. Bit of weight and energy to carry around a couple of G's on the back

That oil pump you have is the goods. Chuck a crank collar on and you should have no problems. If you want to run arp main studs, you really should get the crank tunnel bored. They shave a bit off the caps and run a bore through it. You will need a balancer. Ross or arp both make them to suit the single cam accessories, probably more options with ross(triggers, pump drives etc), but they are all $$ Get the spool crank pulley bolt if your going to do the balancer. It's made by arp and there are no other options. With all the internals you are going to run, get the crank balanced and grub screwed and it will be good for 8k easy. Big boost and timing down low is what breaks them. Once they are past peak torque you can go for it.

This and if not, swap the wires to see what happens. 50/50 shot of it working

Have you got the wires to the iacv crossed and it's trying to close to lower the idle as it warms up, but is actually opening and goes all the way to max open.

This. It will be sweet. Just snip the ends off those elbows so they can all fit onto the flange and bobs ya vagene

Puegot 504? 506? Front caliper seals fit the sumitomo caliper. And mk4 or 5 Cortina pistons fit