locost_bryan

Possibly worn trailing arm bushes or the pivot pins, never had that happen to mine, but think I've heard mention of it causing clonk sound as the arm moves under weight transfer.

A poster on JalopyJournal.com commented "sent them to Barry at Autolign in Christchurch . Rebuilt and back within a week" https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/lever-shock-rebuild-down-under-nz.1079345/

Nice car. My sister had one back in the '80s. Do you have the original seal, or is it missing? Basis in Blenheim would be a good starting place for rubber seals https://basisnz.co.nz/ - they don't have the 16L listed, but they really know their stuff. Listing for seal 322.030 here http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/MITSUBISHI CHRYSLER GALANT GA-GB-GC-GD 1971-77.htm Same one is mentioned for GTO boot in this thread

Reading between the lines, the Tasmin changed considerably over its seven years, as the Ford and BL donor vehicles changed, and the online discussions amongst the Wedge enthusiasts suggest there were a few variations of the wiper arm length and shape. All part of the fun with handbuilt cars.

Found a parts catalogue online, although it doesn't give details for the wiper :- https://www.theseacpages.co.uk/media/wedgemanual.pdf Always liked the Tasmin.

Re the wiper arm - Mk3 Fiesta 1988-95 - discussed here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=12&t=816540

Probably. Iirc, it was tucked away down on the gearbox and they had to remove some the engine plumbing to get to it.

Yeah, brother-in-law just had the trans control unit replaced on an early Mazda 3, gave a similar code, occasionally wouldn't change up from 3rd, but would run normally after stopping. Took a while for the problem to get frequent enough for him to note the circumstances/pattern to describe it to the Mazda workshop.

It's the Old School stamp of approval. Now, what were you talking about before someone said "LD28"?

P76 4.4 V8 and Borg-Warner 3-speed manual (or P76 2.6 SOHC inline-6 and same gearbag but column change).

Sorry, meant to say search the engine number, not chassis number. If you're lucky and it has the original engine, and the number was recorded correctly...

The NZTA still have the details for cars that were still registered when the records were computerised, but that list only has the live plates. You might have to contact the NZTA and pay for a search of the chassis number. I have a similar issue with lapsed rego - carjam brings up the rego details, but the chassis number is not in the NZTA spreadsheet. Fortunately I have the black plates and the chassis tag matches, so I can go through the re-registration process.

I like them. On the NZTA website, there is a downloadable list of pre-1990 rego details - iirc engine and chassis numbers, colours, rego date, body style, but not plate numbers. https://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/new-zealand-motor-vehicle-register-statistics/new-zealand-vehicle-fleet-open-data-sets/ You could probably trace the engine number for Avenger wagons registered between 1975 and 1977, and then ask NZTA to trace the rego number and tell you if they had both been owned by the same old dude.

Good ones seem to be $5,000 to $8,000. A bit more if really good.

Is it that time of the month already?

2011 Focus RS - 130mm longer, 250mm wider, 60mm taller, 625kgs heavier.

Mantis from The Avenger comics?

Perhaps a variation on the rocker covers of the Sunbeam Tiger - "Tiger powered by Chrysler"

Looks amazing. How much would that have set him back? (If it's not confidential)

Latest Ecopia 300 tyres are a big step up from previous generation, much quieter and work well in the wet. Had the previous gen on the Jazz and they were scarily vague in the wet, replaced with latest ones and drives like a normal car and very quiet. Would recommend for normal commuting and non - performance touring.

Same as Jag V6 from S-type, should be easy to find engine and auto at dismantlers, or whole parts car cheap. Nissan V6 also good choice from 350Z or Skyline? Should be plenty of those at the wreckers.

My Mazda6 had it the other way round, far more logical. Mitsi forums had a simple trick to fix it - swap around the micro-switches and the +/- labels.

Happened in heavy rain, in the dark, with a 20 year old behind the wheel, on a moderate left hand corner over a crest. Sadly, I suspect you're right.

There was a comment on the Cortina site about replacement non-GT cast arms, as the pressed steel ones were prone to rust.

Try the Mk1 Cortina club http://www.mk1cortina.co.uk Appears that all the "standard" cars had the same struts and pressed steel arms, but the GT and Lotus had cast or forged arms and different struts. NZ cars should have been assembled from CKD kits of English parts, unless they used Australian CKD kits.